Tony’s Blandford build log.

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I cut 2 keel blanks just in case. I used the Luthiers Friend to take down 1/8 Beech to 3/32 for the false keel. Didn’t bother with an exacting set up but it worked great with two passes. The keel notches I’m going to try to mill on my Taig lathe with the milling attachment and if successful I’ll do the other blank with the small table saw, chisels and knives just to see how it goes. The rabbet I have no idea yet how I’ll attempt it. I’m going to try to document every step of this project.D50F319D-968B-4AC5-9BE9-73198A068164.jpegA5A33316-7D39-4EE9-9A19-7FE081848E4A.jpeg
 
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Yes I’ll see about the rabbet it’s going to take some doing. Don’t have a tilt plate but can rig something up I hope. Donnie and Doc what did you use for your frame bolts ??
 
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Didn’t do much today except figure out the keel. Started milling it. Accuracy is unknown right now. If it’s off a bit I’ll use the other keel I have mark it more accurately and cut it closer. I can’t get the mill perfectly aligned in the collet, it’s close enough and a little wobble doesn’t hurt things but I’d rather have it run perfectly true. The paper screwed me up a bit too marking with a knife or pencil would have been better. Back on it Sunday

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Mike41

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Hi Tony, if you put scotch tape over the paper pattern the edges will not tear out as bad.

Mike
 
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Managed to get the keel milled out. Moved on to dry fitting the floors. Not perfect but it may do. I’ll know when e actual frames have to go on these jig.
First frame issues now. Very important question for you guys. The top layer runs a bit short at the top. How critical is this ?? You can see the pics left is right on, right side is 1/16 short. Work arounds ? Cut a new piece ? Thanks

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The type of dye will make a difference. Even with a water based dye, a few days in the dye bath won't hurt the wood. Leave it 3-4 days. Yes, cut off the toothpick tips!

As to the frame height, you'll probably be OK. The frames have to be trimmed later to fit the rails. Since the top timbers on the frames are covered, if you need to, you can shim them and no one will see!
 
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One other tip than might be helpful: As you finish the frames, put poly on the forward and aft faces of each frame before you glue them in place. It's really tough to do after they're glued. Stop the poly a little above where the inboard and outboard planking ends and glue "spacers between each frame. The structure will become really rigid and you'll be able to remove the fore and aft plywood edges of the jig. Makes working on the inside much easier.
 
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Yes ok thanks Doc, I’m not going use poly, I I’m going to use shellac. Same principle I’m sure. Yes I saw your spacers which are hidden by the planking. I am taking notes so I don’t ever get ahead of myself on this.
 
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Thanks guys. Not perfect but we’ll see how they look after sanding. One frame came up quite short at the top. Might make a couple new parts for it might not it’s all hidden in the end anyway. Sanding will be slow using the drill press drum and the 12” disc, have to be very careful not to remove any more material than necessary.
 

Uwek

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Your framing work is looking very good - very good start in this new field of scratch building Thumbsup

When you already think about making some parts new, take also one look at the top frame you show in your photo.
Especially when this is the first or last frame of the section, this frame will be visible from the side.
Here it seems, that the floor timber is thinner than the first futtock - with sanding you will reduce the thickness only of the futtock.....
I am afraid, that this small difference of the width will be still visible, also after planking inside and outside. maybe you check this also
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