Using a Compound Slide

Donnie

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Forum Moderator
Le Rochefort Moderator
Joined
Aug 21, 2011
Messages
5,097
Points
738

Location
Madison, MS
This is a picture of my lathe set up using a compound Slide to cut a 4.5 ° angle taper on Stainless Steel. It took me a while to get this set up for the first cut due to various situations that arose such as a loose tool mounting block. Eventually just took the whole thing apart and tightened some loose screws ect.


compound-slide.jpg
 
Interesting!

I've been mounting the head stock at an angle to do what you're doing here. This looks a lot more precise. Is it required to cut on the back side of the lathe? Or is that for purposes of the photo? Looks like it would be a lot easier to see that way without the tool getting in the way.

I'll look into one of these at some point. Right now, I'm considering the larger diameter chuck and I just bought the headstock riser kit. I want to cut some rings from 2-1/2" diameter brass and the basic setup is too small.

I love the lathe though – I'm learning a lot about machining and it's a lot of fun.

I'm looking forward to seeing more photos on how to use the compound slide.

Clare
 
Clare,
actually, when I bought the 4410C Sherline, I opted for the package deal that had this in it. this is really the first time to put it to use. At the time, it was sort of confusing because the tool does not mount like a regular tool post.

I went back and read the data sheet that came with it again and it said to mount the 1/4 HSS tool "upside down" of all things. The reason is that this is the only way to make the tool tip to be "center line" -- Took me a little while to reverse my thinking on the situation.

Yes, on my Sherline, I had been removing the Key on the Head Stock and turning the Head Stock to the angle of choice. Actually more robust way of doing things. However, in this case, i was experimenting with the compound slide. you really have to take it easy and go slow.

To be sure - do you have the Sherline as well ?

The only advantage I can see is that you can do your angle cut and continue with your straight cuts as usual. You don't have to remount the Head Stock to square again.

There are always compromises. I also found out there are no short cuts to machining.

Back to the slide. It is rather convienient to have the tools, slide out of the way on the other side. In order to mount it in the way that "we" would think it should be, you would have to grind your own tool so the cutting edge is on the bottom. You would think that they would have come out with a Head Stock riser block to compensate for the extra height of the compound slide and therefore allow one to use any tool and configuration. the given slide / saddle is already set at proper height for a tool post. Now you are adding a compound slide that has extra height. I should contact Sherline to ask them about this.

Let me know what kind of lathe you have.

Donnie
 
Compound Slide close up.
 
Hi Donnie,

Yes, I invested in a basic Sherline lathe. I don't recall the model, but it is the very basic model. That's all I could afford to spend at any one given time, but I've added accessories over time including a milling column that will allow me to remount the head stock and use the lathe's X-Y bed. Pretty neat conversion, but I'm not really "up" on milling. However, I have done a bit of machining on the lathe and learning more as I go.

I looked up the info on the compound slide on Sherline's web site. Looks like there is some kind of riser block you can get so that you can front-mount the cutting tool if you prefer.

I'm just barely getting started using the Sherline, but I really like working with it. I did make some guns for the USS Saginaw. I just order the larger 3-jaw chuck to try cutting rings for the paddle wheels. It will be pushing the capacity of the Sherline, but it will be a real boon if I'm able to do it. I'll know in another couple weeks when I have the new chuck and have a chance to work with it.

Anyway, the compound slide looks interesting. I can see it would make changing angles a lot easier, and being able to keep the head locked in the straight position would be a plus. I'm thinking I'm going to have to turn the cannon masters for the HMS Victory so the guns are accurate. Not sure that I want to try to turn them all. I may turn masters and then make molds from them to do some casting, which I enjoy.

So, what's the next tool in your Sherline bag of tricks that you're going to be pulling out next?

Clare
 
Well,
I just recently (for Christmas) got an A2Z Quick Change Tool Post from the little machine shop for $99.
On a scale from 1 to 10, I would say it is about a 6. I guess you get what you pay for. Sherline has a QCTP, but just too expensive at the time (as you say).
The deal with the A2Z unit is that the aluminum plungers that push against the tool are really not well made. They are real loose in my opinion. They have a rubber grommet that helps, but I just took them out - actually they just fall out of the QCTP. I turned my own plungers (or pistons) out of Stainless Steel and got the tolerance as close as I could. I mean they fit right in very snug, but not overly. My next will be to take some 1" Stainless Steel to machine that cylinder that goes down the center - its aluminum too and has a lot of slop (tolerance in it) too. The Pistons (original) need to have some length taken off as they are a little too long hince making the locking lever not have enough play in it to really feel the tool being latched.
If you ever get a QCTP - I guess the $99 can't be beat. If you get one, let me know and I will send you some modified pistons that will work better.
The QCTP comes with 4 interchangeable post, but I ordered 2 more. I get my metal from onlinemetals.com
I also recently bought a 4 jaw self centering chuck from Sherline. I wore my 3 jaw chuck out and had to send it back to SL for refurbishing. I think I wore it out from lack of experience on the lathe.
By the way a great tip for ya.
If you turn (any metal) at a particular speed, lets say 550 RPM, when you get ready to use the parting tool, crank your RPM down by HALF ! (about 225 RPM) can't believe how much diff that will make. This was an area of major mistakes for me.
Of all the sites and info out there on the web about lathes, I could NEVER find a satisfactory explanation or image that shows the correct position to place the cutting tool !
 
Back
Top