USS Constitution X-Section, 1:93 Scale, Mamoli (1982)

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Apr 8, 2021
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I've been lurking on the SoS forum for quite a while getting inspiration and a lot of good info. I finally have a small work area to re-start my project (after 35+ years of it sitting in a storage box.) Remarkably, it survived with a wee bit of damage. I just completed the standing rigging and am laying plans to begin the running rigging, mounting the yards, etc.

As this is my first build, my question is should I complete as much work on the yards as possible (ie: rigging the blocks, stirrups & footropes, etc.) before attaching the yards to the mast, or should I follow the instructions (as brief as they are), so as to not get into serious trouble. I'm thinking that it would be much easier to complete as much work as possible on the yards on the work bench rather than trying to do so with them mounted. Also, should I install all the blocks and belaying pins on the rails and deck before the yards? Thanks in advance for your replies. And I will start a build log on my project.

...henry
 
you are correct - I install by myself as much as possible on the yard arms and also the deck before the final installation
 
Yes,
I always rig up my Yards with all the blocks, rigging line and then attach the rigged yards onto the mast. You have three choices when it comes to the sails:
1) full sails
2) Furled Sails
3) No sails
The furled sails will be completely rigged just the the full sails (the furled just means the sails are hoisted up)

Lastly, make sure your lines such as Bunt, Leech, sheets, Yard Lifts, etc have enough line 'length' to come down to the belaying points, cleats blocks etc. If you have pulleys involved, make sure you have enough line length to traverse all the paths the line will take. IF the Yards have 'Parrells', rig one side of the Parrell and leave the other hanging. The Parrells (if they are used) are / and can be like wooden balls that are strung in pairs - they are installed on the yard to help the yard move freely up and down on the mast. These Parrells are usually only used on the larger lower Yards.
I hope this helps.
 
Thanks for the information Donnie and Uwe. I'll give it a go.
...henry

As an aside, is there any way of moving this thread into the build log section? If so, I'll use it as the start of my log.
 
After 35+ years stored in a box and now my having a work area that I can leave the project set up full time, it was time to unbox and figure out where I left off on the project. The only damage was to the top 6 inches of the mast that became warped sitting in storage. In an attempt to straighten it out, of course, it broke. I eventually glued the section back on and fabricated a support work to strengthen the joint. The following are some pics from the unboxing. As I previously noted, this is my 1st build so I've decided to use the project as a platform to develop / improve my skill sets.
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I'll post a few more pics to show where I am currently in the project. Because I have other projects (honey-dos) as assigned by the Secretary of the Navy, my progress is slow... but is still considered progress.
...henry
 
After re-familiarizing myself with the plans / worksheets and inventorying the kit, I started in on the shrouds and ratlines. When I first started this project, there was no Internet, and thus no forums, or YouTube videos to learn modeling techniques and creative ways of doing things. My how things have changed. So I'll express my sincere thanks to those modelers who generously give of themselves to provide help to those of us that are just starting out and facing the same hurdles.
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Next up is the pre-work on the yardarms and deck. Thanks for your support
...henry
 
Following the advice of others, I prepared the yards and spars before attaching them to the mast. It became very clear from the start that this was indeed the way to go. I did not do the full rigging of them (i.e. all the down lines) as it would be a bit too confusing for me, a first timer. During the process of attaching the blocks and stirrups, I tried different techniques (trial and error... a lot of error) and learned not to use the super thin CA as it wicked up the lines and made them glassy looking. For me, I found tying a clove hitch, square knot, or granny knot and securing with a dab of diluted PVA, or thick CA worked the best, but I also realize I need to improve on my technique. The following photos are the results.

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When I started this project 35+ years ago, I never gave much thought to painting the various accessories such as the gun carriages, etc. Don't know why except that the plans didn't call for it. Had S.o.S been around back then, I would have done things differently. I also chose not to paint the hull as my wife liked the looks of the natural wood and because she bought me the kit... well you all get the idea. I did apply several coats of acrylic matte varnish to it. Here's some photos of the finished hull.
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Your work looks great for a first build.

We all learn from mistakes as we go and progress in our mastery of the skill and knowledge of things done many a year ago.

One thing I have learned from posts and reading about how rigging is to be done, is you must pick a period in time of the ship, as each Captain has his own way of having things done, and many ship's often had major changes in masts and rigging in a lifetime.
 
Being that this was my first go at rigging a model ship, it was a bit overwhelming looking at the plan sheets with only minimal instructions. Before moving forward, I deciphered the build order and followed each line from beginning to end step by step and put the results into an Excel spreadsheet. For me, this helped immensely. The following photos document my attempt.
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The kit provided a base and nameplate, but no accessories to mount the hull to the base. I looked at the brass stand offs, but didn't have the confidence to drill into the keel after the model was finished to secure the stand offs. Instead I made a cradle to hold the hull in place. Next build I will think ahead as to how to mount the model. I choose not to paint the nameplate as the pewter look was more appealing to me.

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