Vasa - 1:65 DeAgostini [COMPLETED BUILD]

Did you help Zoly to identify the blocks required for the DeAgostiny VASA blocks upgrades? ;)
The DeAg version doesn't really have rigging plans - at least not like the Billings version. I'm going to follow others and try to use the museum plans and Anderson to figure it all out. I just ordered a small pile of various blocks and will re-order if I run short of something.
 
Your work is truly amazing. Suddenly everything I've built to date isn't good enough.
Please don't feel that way Kristy. I have been humbled when I review your work as well. We are playing a game that few people are capable of playing and each of us excels in some areas but struggles in others - but at the end of the day we are creating something out of chaos (kit parts, or stock lumber, or...) and that's a beautiful thing!
 
Please don't feel that way Kristy. I have been humbled when I review your work as well. We are playing a game that few people are capable of playing and each of us excels in some areas but struggles in others - but at the end of the day we are creating something out of chaos (kit parts, or stock lumber, or...) and that's a beautiful thing!
Thumbsup WHAT PAUL SAID! We are all on the road toward making better models, we are in different places on that road, but all are trying to help each other here get farther down the road. Don't look at your model and say it's not good enough, forgetting ALL THE LESSONS you learned making it. Don't cheat yourself of the pride you earned gaining that experience. Although some learn faster than others, and some are ahead of you on the road, know that if you actually COMPLETED a ship model, you are way ahead of the hundreds if not thousands who STARTED a model sailing ship kit and NEVER finished it. You already are in the upper ranks of those who began building simply for having finished ONE. What you want to do is build more, then look back at your first ship and note how far you've come. You may cringe at it at that point, but you'll also recognize how you have progressed. This is true of every hand craft. So go impress yourself! :D
 
Getting better...or not...a bit of a learning curve to this art.

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It's going to take some time to get consistent results - especially with the vertical ropewalk that I'm going to use for cables and larger diameters. Anyway, this concludes my experiment: official plan is now to make my own ropes. Let the regrets begin... ROTF .
 
They look really fine Paul. Can't wait to get my Domanoff rope maker. You should have no regrets. Are you binding 6 strands in your last example?
Hi Daniel. The one on the left is 2x3 (two strands in each) and the one on the right is 3x3. Curiously this rope ended up a bit thinner than when I made a 1x3 rope and then used that 1x3 rope as the source threads to make a thicker rope. Each has 9 Mara 30 threads but the way they wrap together influenced the final diameter. Lot's of trial and error so far but I'm learning.
 
Your log is a zephyr, Paul - 2 1/2 pages ran ahead of me faster than Usain Bolt! The ropes look so very good. I appreciate all of this information and also the input of Alexander 74. Sometimes, I will consult specific tech subject pages on SOS, but it sure is handy to already have these discussions attached to the models that have captivated us, IMO.
 
My thanks for the likes and kind comments.

In the spirit of what Marc just wrote...attached here are two resources that could be added to the material @Alexander74 shared in post #1123. I'm not sure where I got these from anymore so I can't give proper credit - but maybe someone will find them useful.
 

Attachments

  • Period Ship Scale Tables.xls
    1.6 MB · Views: 35
  • Rigging - size of rope and blocks - Final.xls
    5.3 MB · Views: 26
Fellow Modelers,

I'm looking for your thoughts/opinions regarding my standing rigging lines.

According to the museum folks the lines on the Vasa were not tarred in the way we often think ropes are tarred. Indeed, it has been stated that there is very little difference in the amount of tar on the running vs. standing rigging. From the museum's modelers' forum I learned that the 'threads' used to make the ropes may have seen some level of tar treatment but not the completed ropes. Once again the Vasa causes us to wonder about what we believe to be universally true about period ships. To be fair, a countering theory is that the ropes weren't tarred because she was 'fresh off the showroom floor' when she sank and if she had spent years at sea the standing rigging would have been tarred.

In any case I think it would be too strong a departure from traditional model presentation to show the running and standing rigging in the same color. But I also don't want to completely ignore what we know about the real ship.

I have been experimenting with a bitumen for decoupage to tint the standing rigging (ala Matt). The looped line in the images below is the raw hemp line I will use for the running rig. Do you have a preference for the vertical lines which I will use for the standing rig? From left to right they are A-B-C-D-E.

IMG_6929 (2).JPG
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Yes, these are all S twisted which will cause some of you great consternation but making left handed lines is MUCH easier with my chosen source thread (Gutermann Mara is right handed poly). To make Z lines I would need to take apart my source thread back to the original fibers and remake it as left handed poly threads (which could then be made into right handed final ropes) and from this modeler's viewpoint its just not worth the pain of doing that. Or maybe I'm missing something?

Anyway, what's your vote A-B-C-D-E?

I love watching you all accomplishing great things on your individual builds.
 
Paul , personally I don't care for the bitumen mix of any choice except maybe "D" as it seems the most homogeneous .
I do however understand your desire to replicate the most historically accurate representation. I plan on using a dark brown standing with manila or light tan running rigging. What ever you end up using I know the completed ship will simply be breathtaking! Ha! no pressure intended.:D
 
Hello, Doc. I am thrilled with your handmade ropes, but neither of the colors\shades is convincing me. I am not talking about the authentication of the color, I am relying on the hull color instead. For my taste, I would choose the color a bit darker than your upper wales. This would be my color.

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But this is purely my humble opinion. Between your colors, I would choose 'D'
 
Fellow Modelers,

I'm looking for your thoughts/opinions regarding my standing rigging lines.

According to the museum folks the lines on the Vasa were not tarred in the way we often think ropes are tarred. Indeed, it has been stated that there is very little difference in the amount of tar on the running vs. standing rigging. From the museum's modelers' forum I learned that the 'threads' used to make the ropes may have seen some level of tar treatment but not the completed ropes. Once again the Vasa causes us to wonder about what we believe to be universally true about period ships. To be fair, a countering theory is that the ropes weren't tarred because she was 'fresh off the showroom floor' when she sank and if she had spent years at sea the standing rigging would have been tarred.

In any case I think it would be too strong a departure from traditional model presentation to show the running and standing rigging in the same color. But I also don't want to completely ignore what we know about the real ship.

I have been experimenting with a bitumen for decoupage to tint the standing rigging (ala Matt). The looped line in the images below is the raw hemp line I will use for the running rig. Do you have a preference for the vertical lines which I will use for the standing rig? From left to right they are A-B-C-D-E.

View attachment 243151
View attachment 243152

Yes, these are all S twisted which will cause some of you great consternation but making left handed lines is MUCH easier with my chosen source thread (Gutermann Mara is right handed poly). To make Z lines I would need to take apart my source thread back to the original fibers and remake it as left handed poly threads (which could then be made into right handed final ropes) and from this modeler's viewpoint its just not worth the pain of doing that. Or maybe I'm missing something?

Anyway, what's your vote A-B-C-D-E?

I love watching you all accomplishing great things on your individual builds.
OMG those are great lines! I vote for C or E, because the appear slightly worn and weathered. D is too worn to match the appearance of your model. A & B look too new. However, new may be the look you are going for, Paul. Remember, Wasa never had a change to get worn rigging! :)
 
Fellow Modelers,

I'm looking for your thoughts/opinions regarding my standing rigging lines.

According to the museum folks the lines on the Vasa were not tarred in the way we often think ropes are tarred. Indeed, it has been stated that there is very little difference in the amount of tar on the running vs. standing rigging. From the museum's modelers' forum I learned that the 'threads' used to make the ropes may have seen some level of tar treatment but not the completed ropes. Once again the Vasa causes us to wonder about what we believe to be universally true about period ships. To be fair, a countering theory is that the ropes weren't tarred because she was 'fresh off the showroom floor' when she sank and if she had spent years at sea the standing rigging would have been tarred.

In any case I think it would be too strong a departure from traditional model presentation to show the running and standing rigging in the same color. But I also don't want to completely ignore what we know about the real ship.

I have been experimenting with a bitumen for decoupage to tint the standing rigging (ala Matt). The looped line in the images below is the raw hemp line I will use for the running rig. Do you have a preference for the vertical lines which I will use for the standing rig? From left to right they are A-B-C-D-E.

View attachment 243151
View attachment 243152

Yes, these are all S twisted which will cause some of you great consternation but making left handed lines is MUCH easier with my chosen source thread (Gutermann Mara is right handed poly). To make Z lines I would need to take apart my source thread back to the original fibers and remake it as left handed poly threads (which could then be made into right handed final ropes) and from this modeler's viewpoint its just not worth the pain of doing that. Or maybe I'm missing something?

Anyway, what's your vote A-B-C-D-E?

I love watching you all accomplishing great things on your individual builds.
I choose D!
 
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