Vasa - 1:65 DeAgostini [COMPLETED BUILD]

Hello Friends,

Modeling time has been rare of late - and the prospects for more are not good in the short term. I have been reluctant to take on any significant portions of the build so I have been gluing on decorative bits when I have an hour to spare here and there.

The galleries are now nearly complete and I have partially decorated the stern - I need to paint more stuff before it can proceed any further.

The following photo essay documents the current state of things...

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I had an interesting experience with my ship model last night. A professional colleague stopped by for a visit and he noticed my ship sitting on my work table. I fully expected him to focus in on all the colored decorations (full disclosure: I expected him to ooh and ahh and fawn over the micro-painting). Instead, he ignored all that and gave his attention to the hull, decking, and bulwark details. I thought about that for a while and when I sat back and looked at the ship from across the room I realized that the decorations actually take up only a small portion of the ship:

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By the time I add masts and yards and rigging the decorative parts will fade even more into the background.

I'm actually quite happy with this - I was starting to be concerned that this ship was going to end up looking like a clown ship or a caricature of what should be a grand and royal warship. I have now been relieved of that concern.

Thanks for stopping by. I have been watching your work with admiration. You are a talented bunch!
How dare your colleague concentrate on the bite and overlook the teeth! :p
 
Looks great Paul!
If it were me, I would take a small liberty …and remove what looks like a thumb protruding from the top of the lions lower paw. If you grind those off you, and make the paw thinner…you will have room to move the lions up and add the piece between the lions and masks. It may have to be thinner than actual, but is doable!
So lift the lower paw up to touch the shield, after making it thinner. Then rotate the lion, so upper paw touches the crown. Both of these things will give you more room at the bottom, as there is plenty of room above their heads, and should not be. Hope that makes sense. One last thing…when rotating the lions, that should make the lower tail horizontal (it is not now). In addition, you can grind a little off the bottom of the lion where it sits on the horizontal board. Remember these little adjustments will never be noticed. What will be noticed is how it all fits together. And I also realize the length of the curtains may hinder the horizontal board placement above the masks. Unless you carved the end of the horizontal board to merge into the curtains? I know this would not be exact, but would help unless you are willing to shorten the curtains some? Just throwing out ideas…
I think you have it right Dean. This has been a tricky business joining metal (unforgiving) with wood (forgiving). Despite the best efforts of the kit designer we (the modeler) can never reproduce in perfection what the kit intends for us to produce. I took some liberties with this stern section as a concession to build-ability that are now causing me some difficulties (not just the height issue I mentioned previously).

I did track with your ideas. The rotation of the lion will be important because it is the 'rear' of the lion that is the area of constriction. I appreciate your suggestions!
 
Hello Friends,

Modeling time has been rare of late - and the prospects for more are not good in the short term. I have been reluctant to take on any significant portions of the build so I have been gluing on decorative bits when I have an hour to spare here and there.

The galleries are now nearly complete and I have partially decorated the stern - I need to paint more stuff before it can proceed any further.

The following photo essay documents the current state of things...

View attachment 248188

View attachment 248189

View attachment 248190

View attachment 248191



View attachment 248193

View attachment 248194

I had an interesting experience with my ship model last night. A professional colleague stopped by for a visit and he noticed my ship sitting on my work table. I fully expected him to focus in on all the colored decorations (full disclosure: I expected him to ooh and ahh and fawn over the micro-painting). Instead, he ignored all that and gave his attention to the hull, decking, and bulwark details. I thought about that for a while and when I sat back and looked at the ship from across the room I realized that the decorations actually take up only a small portion of the ship:

View attachment 248195

By the time I add masts and yards and rigging the decorative parts will fade even more into the background.

I'm actually quite happy with this - I was starting to be concerned that this ship was going to end up looking like a clown ship or a caricature of what should be a grand and royal warship. I have now been relieved of that concern.

Thanks for stopping by. I have been watching your work with admiration. You are a talented bunch!
Wow so good, compared to me it looks like a master at work, beautiful.:cool:
 
Many, many thanks for all the kind words and likes.

Installation of tiny painted bits continues with attention now turning to the bulkheads. Each of the following required building a base, a shelf, and/or a cover - and in some cases all three. The froufrou molding began as a photoetched and stamped brass strip that I painted to accentuate the design.

Working from midships toward the stern...

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Next, I turned my attention to the forward rail system.

Let's begin with the goal:

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Here is the kit version from the official build:

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I decided it was best to replace the kit supplied parts. I was particularly challenged in fabricating the lower rail element. I started with a 6x6 mm pearwood stick and tried to bend it into the arc seen on the resurrected ship. Soaking alone didn't work - and soaking it, clamping it over shims, and heating it with an air gun created a V-shape rather than a nice smooth curve. But after some careful work on a spindle sander I ended up with something I could use.

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Notice this little 'bumper'. I have rarely seen it reproduced on Vasa models but it seemed like a cool detail. We'll see if my main stay sits on it correctly or if it will need to be removed...

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Next, I made a pair of catheads. Once again I had to replace the plywood kit parts with 5x5 mm pearwood stock from my coveted supply. I cut in the slots for the pulleys (sheaves?) with a thin sawblade and files, and made myself some little wooden pulleys.

Finally, I added an anchor lift assist bar (which is oddly left completely out of the DeAg kit). There was apparently only one on the actual ship and it was configured to be usable on each side of the ship.

In the following images these new parts are just sitting loose...

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I do apologize for not knowing the names of these things. I hope no one is offended (indeed, no offence is intended). I know many of you take this stuff very seriously and my clumsy use of ship terms likely drives you crazy. Anyway, I'm just a guy trying out a new hobby - one that I am enjoying very much. Thanks for letting me join the club!
 

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The contrast between your execution and the stock kit pictures is astounding. I wonder if they painted the hull on the prototype because the kit supplied planking was not nice enough to be left natural.
I think you have it right, Marc. The kit supplied hull planking is nondescript 'white' wood - could be basswood or perhaps bamboo. It is actually somewhat transparent at 0.5 mm. In addition, all laser cut sheets are plywood which (of course) leaves an unsightly edge. Painting conveniently covers up that edge.

I have seen this kit built using stain on the hull but I chose to go in another direction and swapped out the lot.

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I was afraid this would happen one day, and surely it happened today! I have used all my known epithets in previous posts, and technically cannot express my fillings, I mean... she is...one...she is one... Well, I am speechless, doctor Paul!

Your meticulous work is just astounding Paul. Jim said a few days ago he had run out of words to describe your build. I totally agree with him, you set us all such a high standard to chase. I think the word “rookie” should be struck from your self descriptive vocabulary.
 
Next, I turned my attention to the forward rail system.

Let's begin with the goal:

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Here is the kit version from the official build:

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I decided it was best to replace the kit supplied parts. I was particularly challenged in fabricating the lower rail element. I started with a 6x6 mm pearwood stick and tried to bend it into the arc seen on the resurrected ship. Soaking alone didn't work - and soaking it, clamping it over shims, and heating it with an air gun created a V-shape rather than a nice smooth curve. But after some careful work on a spindle sander I ended up with something I could use.

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Notice this little 'bumper'. I have rarely seen it reproduced on a model but it seemed like a cool detail. We'll see if my main stay sits on it correctly or if it will need to be removed...

View attachment 249516

Next, I made a pair of catheads. Once again I had to replace the plywood kit parts for 5x5 mm pearwood stock from my coveted supply. I cut in the slots for the pullies (sheaves?) with a thin sawblade and files, and made myself some little wooden pullies.

Finally, I added an anchor lift assist bar (which is oddly left completely out of the DeAg kit). There was apparently only one on the actual ship and it was configured to be usable on each side of the ship.

In the following images these new parts are just sitting loose...

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I do apologize for not knowing the names of these things. I hope no one is offended (indeed, no offence is intended). I know many of you take this stuff very seriously and my clumsy use of ship terms likely drives you crazy. Anyway, I'm just a guy trying out a new hobby - one that I am enjoying very much. Thanks for letting me join the club!
You’ve been busy Paul…great work! The ship looks better all the time!
 
In comparison, I really like the pear; it has great depth and warmth.

I have to say that, out of the box, the D’Ag Vasa seems like it should be better than it is. The promotional pics and video paint a contradictory picture - a little mis-leading, me thinks.

You have done everything possible, though, to pimp her out, Paul. Your model has all of the qualities of a full scratch-build.
 
In comparison, I really like the pear; it has great depth and warmth.

I have to say that, out of the box, the D’Ag Vasa seems like it should be better than it is. The promotional pics and video paint a contradictory picture - a little mis-leading, me thinks.

You have done everything possible, though, to pimp her out, Paul. Your model has all of the qualities of a full scratch-build.
Ha! The promotional images are of the 1:10 model at the Vasamuseet. More than a little misleading...

Then again, the ROI for me has been unmatched. I have discovered a hobby that fits in my wheelhouse, and this introvert has managed to make a few 'friends' along the way. Time and money well-spent!
 
This is astounding work. I know how long it takes to scratch-build those items - I suppose only superceded by the tens of hours that have gone into the painting. Both items are superb additions to an incredibly well-executed and clean-built model.
 
DeAgostini uses photos of an Italian made scratch built model of HMS Sovereign of the Seas. The promo model photos are quite different in detail than the actual model kit. The DeAgostini aim is to make a model than inexperienced modelers can make that is about 80% as detailed as the promotional photos, which combined with a step-by-step illustrated instruction magazine series is, for many inexperienced people, a decent marketing strategy. The historical articles mixed in with the instructions are an interesting bonus. The kits are expensive and the material quality is fairly low, but a decent looking model, not at professional level, can be achieved with careful fitting, gluing, and accurate painting skills. The model will look fairly detailed, but the decoration details are not historically accurate. The Wasa model they make is far more accurate than HMS Sovereign of the Seas. Still, you can bash your way to accuracy with lots of additional scratch building. Paul is truly stretching the envelope with his Wasa. My model will stretch the envelope in different directions, since I am looking to add more internal details just for fun and practice. I don't think the iron and trenails on my hull exterior will be as detailed as Paul's. Luckily all the decorations on my ship are all gold, so I don't have to keep up with Paul's fine micro-painted figures, which are just plain sick detail-wise. ;)
 
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