Viking Longship "Drakkar" by Amati

Uwek

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My wife being Scandinavian, I decided to do a Viking Longship as my next project. Problems have already arisen. First, the keel was warped so after glueing in the ribs, I added some stiffeners between each of them. Then I put in some reverse bend and left it in the jig for a day. Thankfully most of the bend has been removed. I think the planking will finish the straightening job. Second, the planking has a lot of laser burn dust that has turned the wood a nasty grayish color what I can't remove, Sanding only spreads the dust and makes it worse so I'm hoping Tung oil will tone it down a but, at least it looks a little better after running a test on some scrap pieces of the ply. The garboard strake has been installed on both sides and so far the build is pretty straight forward.
View attachment 158217View attachment 158218
Hallo Charlie, alias @STGCS
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
Birthday-Cake
 
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STGCS,

Superb build. I also very much like what you did with the dragon head, aging look, as well as the stains you used. This kit is under my table and may come up sometime in 021. As a newbie here so I am so hesitant to offer any constructive criticism of any kind, but (ah those conjunctions again) Your anchor might be amiss.
Vikings never used, from what I understand, these much later iron anchors. From my - so far - limited research what I have found is the following - see images.

PS: We know that when they invaded Anglo-saxon kingdoms, and later into France that these cast iron anchors could have been adapted - but I doubt that were used in the 900s or so. Again such nice work - There are many historical experts herse at SoS - I might be totally incorrect. In any case your project is just great.

Regards,
anchor_stone.jpganchor1.jpganchor2.jpg
 
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Thanks for the info. Never to old to learn... Saw a longship at the Helsinki museum years ago before I was interested in modeling. Don't remember what the anchor details were. Should have paid more attention.
 
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Completed the Drakkar longship build except for the oars. Might add a couple for reference but not doing all 26. They wouldn't all fit in the racks anyway. I did the shields in Photoshop, sprayed the back of the castings with brown, the front with silver, then cutout the photoshop printouts and white glued them to the shields. When it was dry I sprayed on a coat of clear. Turned out to be my favorite part of the build. View attachment 163364View attachment 163365View attachment 163366View attachment 163367View attachment 163368View attachment 163369View attachment 163370View attachment 163371View attachment 163372View attachment 163373View attachment 163374View attachment 163375View attachment 163376View attachment 163377
A good looking model all the way! PT-2
 
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I have used a local plastics fabrication shop to bend acrylic into a five sided box which I then could either just place over the model but bypassing that I have a table saw and can cut out a base board that the acrylic box fits into. A lot less expensive than those on line. I told them to use 1/8-inch bends at the top lengthwise and put a square cornered end matching those three, back, top, and face side. I can take an iPhone photo if you would like. I just didn't see any specific reason for a wood frame when an entirely clear cover does the same job with better viewing from all sides. PT-2
 
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I have used a local plastics fabrication shop to bend acrylic into a five sided box which I then could either just place over the model but bypassing that I have a table saw and can cut out a base board that the acrylic box fits into. A lot less expensive than those on line. I told them to use 1/8-inch bends at the top lengthwise and put a square cornered end matching those three, back, top, and face side. I can take an iPhone photo if you would like. I just didn't see any specific reason for a wood frame when an entirely clear cover does the same job with better viewing from all sides. PT-2
Display cases are definitely over priced. Would appreciate a quick shot of your case to see what it looks like. Might try that myself. Thanks in advance.
 
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Display cases are definitely over priced. Would appreciate a quick shot of your case to see what it looks like. Might try that myself. Thanks in advance.
Here you go. Neither with dedicated lighting, just placed where I could make space:
Canoe case is set into a board with straight-through table saw cuts and a close up.
The larger one is just placed over the boat on a shelf. Darker in that corner. It was about $190 and the smaller canoe about $85.Canoe Case.jpgCanoe Case Corner board cuts.jpgPIlot Boat Larger Case no Base Board.jpg
 
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Thank you STGCS, I will check out Model Expo.
& thank you PT-2, I do have a garage. Most of my tools are aimed towards Auto Mechanics. Time to price some Woodworking tools. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Beautiful cases.
Thanks to all,
StuG
Cases are simple but they work at an acceptable price. As to carpentry tools, I have had an old Craftsman table saw for 50 years and for cutting it does what I need but not as precisely as years ago. For hand drills I got a plunge type of guide that the drill connects with but it is for crude drilling not drill press type of precision. My limited mini tools are: drill press, belt and disc sander, scroll saw, and a table saw. The number of times that I would need a lathe are far apart so for some items I use the drill and files to shape simple things not needing high precision. I am sure that many SoS members can give their own recommendations and experience along the path. PT- 2
 
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