What is the best Glue?

  • Thread starter Thread starter morfa
  • Start date Start date
  • Watchers Watchers 8
M

morfa

Joined
Mar 23, 2020
Messages
77
Points
88

As I am just starting out and want to get some supplies before my kit arrives from Germany. What is the best glue sourced in Canada/USA to glue wood to wood, wood to ABS (the hull) and wood to metal? A club member in Ottawa like good old fashion super glue for the Dollar store as well as Gorilla Original. https://www.gorillatough.com/product/original-gorilla-glue/ Any ideas? Thanks in advance. D
 
I use yellow carpenter glue for wood to wood, and gel super glue for other mixed surface gluing. Gel has a few seconds bond time to make final adjustments.

You might also have thin super glue for work on knots or other things that it needs to soak into to work.
 
YOU ARE GOING TO GET OPIONS GALORE , I HAVE TRIED MOST GLUES FROM ELMERS YELLOW< ELMERS WHITE 3 DIFFERENT TYPES OF TITEBOND, HAD SOME PROBLEMS WITHH HAVE SETTLED ON A GLUE CALLED LINCO RECOMMEND BY OUR MODERATOR JIM TO ME IT IS THES STRONG QUICK SEt EXCELLENT I TRY TO AVOID CA GLUES IF I CAN FOR MANY RESONS IF I HAVE TO USE IT I TRY TO USE IT WHERE NOT VCISABLE AGAIN FROM JIM I USE MERCURY ADHESIVE THE MEDIUM ONE APPLIED WITH A DOOPLER, and if need to have a quick set an accelarator i only use the acceelrator on unseen areas a lot of my models the accelarater caused huge discolration, this is just me advice try them all see witch one works best for you. Don
 
Hi Derek you will need all sorts of glue

Here a recommended list minimum:

Wood- PVA white wood glue ( you do not need outdoor glue unless your putting the model outdoors)
Plastic - Revel / Tamiya plastic glue
Metal - metal , Metal to wood ( Skin to anything) CA ( Thick, Medium, Thin) dependant on use. ( for light stress work ,does not hold lateral strenght)
Metal - Metal , Metal to wood ( Stress joints - Epoxy glue)


Don't buy lots, it goes a long way!

95% of your work will be with PVA and patience
 
As it will be in the water does that change anything on your list? Thanks for the advice and comment— 95% of your work will be with PVA and patience
 
Since it is going to be in the water I would definately use mostly epoxies. They are totally waterproof, will seal anything ( which is why real boat builders have been using them for years).
 
Hi, you could use external PVA, but as you will probably be sealing the hull with resin/ fibreglass and I assume a good marine paint or varnish no change.
The construction is the same, just the fininish that seals it is the water proofing.
 
Another is Sig Bond. Been around since I was a kid in the 50's. Used for flying airplane kits when they were balsa and tissue.
qTSKjbp.jpg

8o9DVIO.jpg


EJ
 
Is it waterproof/water resistant as it will be near water above the hull? D.
 
It says on the bottle;
A very strong, deep-strength glue suited for general construction, planking, and sheeting.
Dope - proof
Sands smooth
Fuel- proof

It does not say waterproof. It is an aliphatic resin glue. It is similar to the original Titebond glue.

Original Titebond is not recommended for exterior use.
Titebond II and Titebond III are water resistant, ok for exterior use, but not recommended for use for continuous submersion or below the waterline.

EJ
 
I hear from many others who sail boats say aliphatic resin glue is the way to go. And as you said as long as it is not "continuous submersion or below the waterline". Good advice, thanks D.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top