What scale is The Best scale?

J

Jim Fortnam

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yes, I understand what goes on as you move from 1:1 to 1:1250 in terms of visual appearance, building complexity, cost and so on, But I've been looking at Jotika, and more specifically their Nelson's Navy range

http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/Nelson_Front.htm

They have a few shown at 1:64, which yields a good model, typically around 800mm to 1100mm (32 to 44" in US money)
I like that size - big enough for old eyes to see what I'm working on, and add some convincing weathering and detail, but small enough to find houseroom permissions from SWMBO. (Rider Haggard reference to 'She, Who Must Be Obeyed')

The problem comes because an attraction of several models to the same scale is being able to compare them, moored alongside each other, and at that scale 3 or 4 start reaching toward critical mass. Nevertheless, having weathered a number of critical storms, I could probably live through another 'discussion,' pointing out how much more interesting it is to be able to compare the hulls, rig, deck accoutrements and so forth.

What experiences have others had? Better to go to 1:96? Is there a scale which is Just Right as the compromise on size, yet allows a rich choice of subjects?

J
 
Jim Fortnam said:
What experiences have others had? Better to go to 1:96? Is there a scale which is Just Right as the compromise on size, yet allows a rich choice of subjects?
Click to expand...
Hi, Jim. You already answered mostly in your post. There is no golden recipe as to what is the best scale. Too many variables are involved in this criterion. What could be the best scale for me, maybe NO-NO for you? I guess, you would need to answer (honestly) yourself.

- How is your budget?
- How is your vision?
- Do you have enough space?
- How much time do you reserve for the project?
- Do you prefer wood, plastic, or cardboard?
- Do you have a long enough desk?
- Do you have the required tools?
- How I will display the completed model (build the case)?
- and the list can go on and on...
 
Different models, different scales. My models fall into three categories. Models within each category built to the same scale. I do not use commercial parts and fittings.

Warships’ Boats- Actual length 26ft to 40ft. All built to 1:32 scale. This large scale allows a high level of detail. These boats also were built with small, lightweight scantlings to minimize weight. The large scale allows these to be modeled to scale. I also include a hand painted figure with each model. 54mm 1:32 approx. figures are readily available. Model size 8- 24in.

New York Pilot Boats- Actual length 26ft to 80ft. All built to 1:48, standard museum scale. Again, easy to show small detail. Model size 10-30 in.

Iron & Steel hulled ships- Actual Length 200- 250 ft. Built to 1:96 scale. Requires much machined and soldered brass work to avoid overscale. Doable with a well equipped workshop. Possibly more difficult than the miniature scales where less detail is required and paper is used to simulate some structure.

When considering scale think about handling/using the smallest parts. For example, a 6in block modeled to 1:64 scale is only 3/32in long. On the other hand, these models particularly if rigged can become huge. The hull of a 160ft long warship (Victory ?) at 1:64 would be 30” long. Rigged the length would about double. The volume of the model, or its glass case, increases by the cube of the scale factor. The volume of a 1:48 scale model is 8 times larger than the same ship modeled at 1:96 scale.

And last, skilled modelers “think in scale.” For example, my current project is being built at 1:96 scale or 1/8” =1ft-0in. So, 1/16”=6”, 1/32”=3”, 1/64”=1-1/2”etc. Also, 96 is close to 100 so approximations can be made using 100 as a divisor. For example, .010” diameter wire will approximate 1”.

Roger
 
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In my opinion the scale around 1:50 is optimal for historic models. In this case all of the details can be properly worked out without having too big a model. It obviously depends on the size of the ship we want to model - ie. a Victory in this case would make an enormous model. If we want to stick to this scale than the size of the original would be limited of course - a sixth rate or any ship with a 40-60m in length would be the most appropriate.
János
 
What scale is the best scale?

The one that aligns with the length of your piece of string! :)
 
As the linear dimensions of a cube increase, the perimeter grows proportionally to the square, and the volume increases proportionally to the cube. That is, if you increase the length /width of the model by 2 times, then the base area will increase by 4 times, and the volume by 8 times.When making a case, you can not make walls next to the model. She won't look good. There should be gaps of about 5...10%. Therefore, taking into account the case, it can take up a lot of space. Do you have room for one model? for three? for ten?
 
If I compare with model railways, I usually say that all scales have their advantages. The Z scale 1:220 is perfect if you want to run long trains, depict really large stations, etc.
N-scale 1:160 has about the same advantages as Z, but you can build more yourself, even if it is on the border of scratch building locomotives and wagons. H0 1:87 is a good compromise between space and level of detail, the most common scale for model railways. 0-scale 1:45 is a very good scale for scratch building but requires considerably more space if you want to run long trains.
Larger Mj scales than that are best suited for really large spaces or for models that are displayed in a stand such as a ship.
I think it fits quite well with what applies to shipbuilding.
I lean more and more towards 1:45 in both mj and shipbuilding.
 
My working scale is 1/24 scale I mostly build Chesapeake Bay work boats and at that scale the boats fit on a shelf or a mantel rather nicely. The scale also works well for me due to some difficulties' with mt hands. Now all of that being said I still tackle other scales and enjoy what I do.
 
I really like 1/48 (1/50) scale. Where possible, I like the consistency of scale. 1/48 is probably the most popular scale airplane scale. Well, maybe not most popular, but most practical. Not too big, but big enough for great detail. I feel similarly about ship models. Certainly 1/96 is difficult to provide great detail. 1/64 is better, but again, 1/48 is great for added detail, which certainly "makes" the model. Normally, 1/48 isn't TOO big, but of course having a 1/48 scale Victory will be a challenge in most homes.
 
In wooden sailing ships I believe 1/48 and larger. My concern isn't the size of the ship but the size of the parts I have to make. I built 1/700 and 1/350 ships for years and I just want big parts at this stage of the game. I had started a 1/60 Swan class and hated it because the planking was so fine and thin. The best scale is the one you like.
 
I've done Rattlesnake (the Massachusetts privateer version) and HMS Surprise in 1:78 and am working on HMS Victory and USF Essex (the one built by the subscription of the citizens of Salem, MA) at the same scale. And Old Ironsides is sitting in a box under a bed waiting for its turn. All are 1:78, which has the virtue of consistency.
I can imagine working in other scales, but I've sort of figured out this one, so that's where I plan to stay. There's little enough consistency in other aspects of life (other than my wonderful wife of more than a half century), so I'm sticking to 1:78.
 
Happiest with 1:24 and 1:32. That said, I'm doing a 1:64 right now. And plan on doing a 1:48 next. The reasons - with 1:24 and 1:32, the parts tend to be real duplicates of the original boat. The planking is real, real ribs too - no double planking IOW - and - best of all - the rigging. Those tiny blocks, etc. on the 1:48 and 1:64 - sheesh. And some of the tricks used in 1:64, well, they're tricks. However, turns out that I'm just another modeling whore - as the truth is, that I'll build anything - if I like the ship and the kit.
 
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