what's the best paint??

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Hey fellow modelers! I've asked questions about the best paint for wood and metal in a few forums, and have searched a lot of posts. So I thought I'd start a thread to get some opinions in one spot.

I've only done one kit so far, the OcCre Albatros. The only thing that needed painting were some metal parts, anchors and deck furniture. I wasn't happy with the results. The paint I used was too glossy, which I think makes it look too unrealistic.

My new build is the Endurance, which has white painted parts of the deck and boats and a black hull. There are also some metal parts.

What are some recommendations on paint for wood and metal? I really want this ship to look great!
 
Testors Dull Coat used to be my go-to matte finish many years ago, but has changed substantially since then. Very surprisingly, I have found that a large can of Rustolem 2X Ultra Coat Matte Clear does a better job and is a fraction of the cost.

In general, glossy paints can make great models look like toys. Most quality modeling paints like Tamiya also come in matte finishes. Unfortunately, the very best paint of all time, Floquil, was discontinued many, many years ago.
 
For me, Vallejo Model Color acrylic brushpaint colors get it. I’m using their ‘black gray’ on my lumber schooner hull and their ‘white gray’ on deck furniture and bulwarks. Much more authentic looking colors (my opinion). Zero gloss, water based, dozens (maybe hundreds) of color choices. Vallejo also makes these in air brush paintable colors but my enclosed ‘model shop’ space (think closet) allows no way to ventilate. Britannia metal parts I prep by soaking in cheap white vinegar, flush with water and air dry. Then only touch with gloves or tweezers. I use Vallejo acrylic primers before painting metal. Use my usual blackening chemicals for brass or copper. Matte acrylic varnish makes a good primer-sealer on wood. I’m using Liquitex right now but suspect most brands would work well. Mike
 
Humbrol matt enamels, excellent finish with a flat brush, fast drying and can be polished lightly when hard with very fine steel wool. Wide range of colours.
 
ONE THING I DO AGREE WITH FLOQUIL PAINTS WERE THE ABSOLUTE BEST NOTHING SINCE IS ANYWHERE CLOSE, IF THIS NON PAINTER COULD GET GOOD RESULTS IT HAD TO BE GREAT PAINTS. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE ALL DON
 
For me, Vallejo Model Color acrylic brushpaint colors get it. I’m using their ‘black gray’ on my lumber schooner hull and their ‘white gray’ on deck furniture and bulwarks. Much more authentic looking colors (my opinion). Zero gloss, water based, dozens (maybe hundreds) of color choices. Vallejo also makes these in air brush paintable colors but my enclosed ‘model shop’ space (think closet) allows no way to ventilate. Britannia metal parts I prep by soaking in cheap white vinegar, flush with water and air dry. Then only touch with gloves or tweezers. I use Vallejo acrylic primers before painting metal. Use my usual blackening chemicals for brass or copper. Matte acrylic varnish makes a good primer-sealer on wood. I’m using Liquitex right now but suspect most brands would work well. Mike

I agree with all you wrote Mike. The Vallejo range and quality of paint is second to none.
 
Great responses about paint. Going back to model makeing at retirement I found all of my Floquils were still brilliant and providing excellent finish and color on the inside of the bottles, hard as a rock. I still have to remind myself to have the patience to do a test sample instead of just assuming the results. This is why God made wood and metal scraps.
 
I’ve had good outcomes with Testors Semi-gloss Black for projects where the original subject was likely painted with gloss paint. There’s something about the vagaries of scale that makes straight gloss paint look unrealistic on a model, however, yet flat paint isn’t quite right either.

I’ve attached pictures of an Apogee 1/70 scale Saturn V model that I just sprayed with a 50/50 blend of Testors semi-gloss black and Mr. Color Thinner. (Yes, the Saturn V is meant to be launched. No, I haven’t committed to launching it yet. :) )

E018F56E-FA07-406D-9FC4-4FA4A8EE15DF.jpeg

FED56B37-F26A-471B-B3D9-8EF9A07F74A4.jpeg

EBF18A8B-8A19-4131-969D-EE3BE4AF9DF2.jpeg

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Btw, the painted surface is mostly cardboard tube. The corrugated parts are vacuum formed styrene.
 
I use a simple artist/craft grade acrylic paint. Excellent results. Flat or matte sheen is truly flat. Not fancy and often less expensive than many model centric paint lines…easier to get…and comes in larger containers! All of the brands suggested are fine paints…but an alternative that I have used for years now is simple artist/craft quality acrylic paints. Get them from the local art/craft store. Also, I rarely if ever use a gloss sheen...I think I only have one bottle of gloss black in my whole collection. PS: My Dad was an HO train enthusiast…he used Floquil exclusively! I inherited several jars of his Floquil paints when he passed but they are long gone now.
 
Signet is right about Rustoleum 2X, & all of their products. Rustoleum makes Testors paints, & even though I'm stuck with plastic models, the best paint I ever used was Model Master, (fancy Testors, made by Rustoleum) but since they've been discontinued, I have gone to Humbrol. Lately, I've started using wood stain on my plastic hulls & decks, & it looks more realistic than any paint ever did! MinWax is best. All you need to do is start with an acrylic base coat, like Depot Buff, or some light color, then 1 or 2 coats of stain, depending on color preference. Then followed by a protective coat. It takes longer to dry, but the results are well worth the effort! Rick 1011
 
Absolutly! A guy in our club was very adept at making plastic look like wood with that very same method. You almost had to ask if the model was plastic or wood as it looked so realistic. The touch with the brush applying the stain is the key there I think.

EJ
 
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