Yards not heavy enough

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I've got most of the rigging and the sails on my yards but there is still not enough weight to pull the slack out of the lifts and sheets. If I push the yard down everything tightens up but as soon as I let go the yard pops up a bit and the rigging goes slack. I was hoping I wouldn't have to drill and pin the yards on to the masts. Is there another way to solve this?
 
I've got most of the rigging and the sails on my yards but there is still not enough weight to pull the slack out of the lifts and sheets. If I push the yard down everything tightens up but as soon as I let go the yard pops up a bit and the rigging goes slack. I was hoping I wouldn't have to drill and pin the yards on to the masts. Is there another way to solve this?
Most people either pin or glue the yard to the mast. Adding diluted PVA glue to the lines will stiffen them up a bit, but usully not enough to make them appear taut. What if you glue the line in the sheave above the mast, so the line leading up from the deck remains taut?
 
I've got most of the rigging and the sails on my yards but there is still not enough weight to pull the slack out of the lifts and sheets. If I push the yard down everything tightens up but as soon as I let go the yard pops up a bit and the rigging goes slack. I was hoping I wouldn't have to drill and pin the yards on to the masts. Is there another way to solve this?
Did you mount Truss Pedands? I had very same situation + with jeers blocks touching each other. This is most likely lack of Truss Pedands for main and for yard and parrel ribs for topsail yard and yards above

Truss Pendans work pulling yard downwards, parrel ribs fix yard to mast(depending how tight you tie them up)
Ofcoure Truss Pendans must be mounted along with fore and main yard slings - Page 34-36 Petersson Rigging of period ships

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how about wetting the lines while taught? ... that should help them take on a more natural shape. the ropes yoy are using may be stiff.
 
Thanks guys, I will look at these possibilities today. One of the reasons I shied away from pins is that I'm afraid I would be bumping into the yards and breaking the pins constantly. I would want to leave that until last and then it would be harder to do. maybe I should drill the holes now.
 
Thanks guys, I will look at these possibilities today. One of the reasons I shied away from pins is that I'm afraid I would be bumping into the yards and breaking the pins constantly. I would want to leave that until last and then it would be harder to do. maybe I should drill the holes now.
I used thin brass rod and friction fit... I bumped into the yards all the time and knocked them around but as the rigging was placed things got much more stable. I tried the authentic non-pinned approach but as you have observed things were just not heavy enough to maintain an authentic look. The Vasa did not have truss pendants (or at least that's where my research took me) so I couldn't include those...
 
I just went out and looked and every lift was tight except the mizen topsail. It seems that the sheets that I installed just before I posted this pull down and tighten everything up. The last yard I looked at before I posted was the mizen topsail, the only one I haven't installed the sheets on. So another false alarm caused by my jumping around from pillar to post. There is just too much going on for an old farts memory. Sorry for that. Thanks for the help though
 
I just went out and looked and every lift was tight except the mizen topsail. It seems that the sheets that I installed just before I posted this pull down and tighten everything up. The last yard I looked at before I posted was the mizen topsail, the only one I haven't installed the sheets on. So another false alarm caused by my jumping around from pillar to post. There is just too much going on for an old farts memory. Sorry for that. Thanks for the help though
No problem, Don. When I first rigged the first yard, the ties and halyard also appeared slack. Later in the build, this was solved when installing the parrel, whose line passes through all the trucks and ribs before passing over the top of the yard, then down to a tackle on the deck. The parrel line, when taut, draws the yard downward, creating the tension you want on the ties and halyard supporting the weight of the yard. It all worked out in the end. Using the parrel line to pull the yard down is necessary for models that don't have sails and rely on the sails to weigh the yard down.

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Thanks guys, I will look at these possibilities today. One of the reasons I shied away from pins is that I'm afraid I would be bumping into the yards and breaking the pins constantly. I would want to leave that until last and then it would be harder to do. maybe I should drill the holes now.
I also used small brass rods for this. They won't break. They can be pulled out, but then pushed back in. I found that doing this first, locating the mast in place (and at the desired angle to the keel) held everything in place making all the rigging to the yard and sail easier (in essence, adding one more finger or hand).
 
Like many others I pin the yard to the mast ... works well and allows tensioning. I have bumped but pins are secure enough not to move.
 
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