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ZHL San Felipe 1690

It's time to install the ruslen. This is an element of the standing rigging that is subjected to significant stress on the models. Therefore, I not only glued them in place but also reinforced the attachment with metal pins. Details of the ruslen in the beech set. I pasted them with pear slats, and that they entered the page between the barhout in thickness, I had to mill the thorn along the entire length.
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Instead of using the knee from the kit, I carved them from mahogany plates, giving them a smooth, curved shape. In the kit, as well as in the drawings, they have a simple triangular shape and appear rather crude.

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ps: And yet, Google translates nautical terms from Russian to English terribly. You have to constantly monitor the translation of ship parts names, otherwise you get complete gibberish. It's terribly inconvenient.
 
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Hello. I'm new to this site. I'm from Russia, so I apologize in advance for my English, but Google Translate is helping me. If anything, I apologize for the mistakes, but this post on this site is a bit unusual for me, especially for the first time.I want to share my build of this rather popular kit from China. I turned 62 in August, and this set was a kind of birthday present from my wife and daughter. In my youth, I was interested in ship modeling, but as I got older, I had less and less time for it. I haven't done this in twenty years, so I decided to try again. I came across this website when I was looking for information about this model. I'm putting it together now, and this is what it looks like. But first things first.
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I ordered a kit from China through a Russian marketplace. It cost 185 dollars with delivery at the current exchange rate. They were delivered to our Upper Volga region quite quickly, in a little less than a month. Immediately, I purchased pink pear and sapele boards for the exterior cladding, as well as a white pear for the deck, which cost me another $70.
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For the barkhouts, I sawed dark walnut planks from my reserves.
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I have experience building models from scratch, not from kits. Such instructions turned out to be of little use to me, especially since they were very schematic and in Chinese. The drawing served as a kind of "bible for assembly.And, of course, I had to prepare a new workbench first; I had never built sailboat models of this scale before. The frame was assembled with almost no hitches, but we had to raise the beam line at the stern a little; the Chinese made a small mistake in some details, which greatly affects the design of the stern galleries.
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I also made linden bosses for the bow and filled the deck with linden slats for installing half-pillows, and painted everything black.
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There were no problems with the roughing. However, I still haven't decided on the type of wood. It's a pity that it's not a lime tree, but unlike us, there doesn't seem to be much of it in China. The material that came in the kit is a bit fragile, but it's easy to work with — the main thing is not to sand it to holes.But before proceeding with the black plating, it is necessary to install the finishing trim and doors on both bulkheads. Otherwise, you won't be able to get to them later.
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Then I started laying the deck deck, but before that I marked out a place in the hull for gun ports and slats. I took all the dimensions from the drawing; the template from the set was not used, as it slightly does not match the original.
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I also pre-installed the gun port racks on the upper deck.
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For the flooring, I used light pear planks with a thickness of 1 mm and a length of 4 mm. The length of the board was 100 mm, although 120 mm would be more accurate. I laid them in three boards with a pitch of 25 mm. I pre-modeled the sheets and unpacked the joints, and then laid them. Birch toothpicks were used as dowels, and thin black drawing paper was used for joints.
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I think that's enough for today. To be continued. If you have any questions, ask, and I'll try to answer them in as much detail as possible.





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Hi Etwas_63 your ship looks very nice!!! clean job!!! Congratulations!!
I’ve always wanted to know: how do you rate the quality of that kit? Do you think it’s good—are the materials decent? I imagine you must be having some trouble reading the blueprints in Chinese, though ROTFROTFROTF.
Regards
 
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I'll continue. (I'm sorry again if there are errors and unclear places in the text, English is not my native language). As I wrote above, I separately ordered slats of pink pear and mahogany (sapel) with a length of 500 mm, a width of 7 mm and a thickness of 1 mm. But I still haven't decided what to trim the quarterdeck with. There was an idea to use a dyed blue hornbeam and even asked for a sample to see how it would look on the ship. Soaked it in oil, which turned it dark blue. I liked it and I decided to order the slats anyway, but then the manufacturer had some minor problems-a defect with the unpainted hornbeam array. So for now, I postponed this issue for later, and took up the cladding below the quarterdeck. Up to the waterline is a pink pear tree, below it is a mahogany tree. I sawed walnut slats with a width of 4 mm, 6 mm and 7 mm on the barhouts.
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At the rails of the pear tree, I made a small chamfer at the joints, imitating the stitching of the boards. The only difficulty at this stage of work is in the bow of the ship. In order to bend the same walnut slats, I first kept them in boiling water for a few minutes, and then bent the profile with a powerful soldering iron.
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I also made a small spike for installation on the barkhout, and a groove for it on the stem.
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The greatest difficulties and the largest amount of work are, of course, when the hull is below the waterline. There I tried to sheathe using the planking method-calculating the width of the slats in the middle, stern and bow of the ship by the length of the hull. I narrowed them to the required size and inserted them in separate places, I don't know how it is in English, but we call them "losses".
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I also had to bend the nose bars or make them from several parts in very problematic places.The profile was taken directly from the hull along the line of the finished skin.

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With the work in the stern, of course, the work is simpler.

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Finally, all the slats are glued, the hull below the waterline is sanded and also brought almost to perfection by cycles. Subsequently, it will be coated with tung oil in three layers.
And yes, I highly recommend the glue in the last photo, I use only it for covering the deck and hull slats, one of the best adhesives for ship modelers in my humble opinion-it is reliable and seizes quickly enough, the excess can be immediately removed with a damp cloth, does not leave traces of fringe when pouring wood.
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That's all for now. I am currently working on the other side of the building. I'll continue the review later, if nothing prevents.
How beautiful it's turning out! I really love the contrast of the natural colors.
Regards
 
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Hi Etwas_63 your ship looks very nice!!! clean job!!! Congratulations!!
I’ve always wanted to know: how do you rate the quality of that kit? Do you think it’s good—are the materials decent? I imagine you must be having some trouble reading the blueprints in Chinese, though ROTFROTFROTF.
Regards
By and large, I only used the plywood frame from the set. It's of good quality, except for the stern. I had to redo it because the Chinese made a mistake with the dimensions. The resin casting is not of very good quality, so I had to refine it using a Dremel and chisels. The aluminum cannons were disappointing. They are slightly off scale, and it's more challenging to blacken them compared to the brass cannons. I ordered materials separately for the side and deck panels. Regarding the blueprints...they are not, they are just drawings, not drawings designed to build a model sailboat. The only thing that helps me out is the previous experience of models not from kits. But to tell the truth, on such a scale, I have never had to build a battleship before, so no matter what, I get great pleasure from building it. "A samurai has no goal, there is only a way"))). But I would not recommend this set to novice ship modelers in any case
 
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