3d printing

Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)

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i do not know how many members here have a 3D printer but they are becoming one of the tools in this hobby. The cost has come way down and they about the same cost as some of the other tools we use. There are so many tyrpes of 3D printers, the plastic used, tricks to getting good prints, software, creationf 3D objects and downloading objects from on line libraries. I now have a 3D printer and getting familiar with the slicing software. This might be
if the sujject generates enough interest maybe it can have it's own catagory.

Th e Lumberyard already does laser cutting and milling so 3D printing seems like an obvious expansion.
 
being neat is not one of my strong points and my once work areas was saws and sanders and wood working tools now it is getting more and more hi tech with CAD work station, 3d modeling and printing.
right off the bat i realized how long a 3d print takes and it is hours not minutes

i was never into the actual printing i was more into 3D modeling which now i know a STL file is a 3d modeling file and not a 3D printing file. you need a slicer software to do that, so here we go learning new software.

i will stick with wooden ship modeling out of wood BUT 3d modeling and printing adds so much more like printing steam engines and carvings, figureheads and all kinds of fittings.

Adding this to the hobby will expand it to include my grandsons generation because of all things they are the ones to go to for 3D modeling and printing, it is taught in high school which replaced the old "shop" when i was in school.

DSCN6925.jpg
 
Your 3D printer is a filament printer, which prints up in layers of solid material, and one of two major types commonly in use, I have the other style, a resin printer, which prints with light in a bath of resin.

Yes as you have said, learning the tricks, tip and in's-out's of 3D printing takes a while, and the software is something that takes a while to get used to how it all works.

I think your right about the need to have a separate section set up and maybe a files sharing area to go with if if at all possible.
 
the step between the 3D model and the printer is the slicing software this makes the STL file printable. Wall thickness, speed, layers and all that stuff.
that is where i am now
 
The most challenge I find is calibrating the printer. It's one thing to have a nice STL file and consequently a GCode file, but everything has to be setup properly first. This means the gap between the nozzle and the bed must be such that the resin comes out and sticks to the bed. Then there is the bed levelling which basically means factoring in any uneveness in the bed. Then there is the eststeps which I am currently trying to understand and fix. It is defined as the number of steps a stepper motor performs before the filament moves 1mm. If that is off then you will hear a lot of clicking from the extruder stepper motor.
The filament temperature uses a PID type control loop which one can calibrate but I don't see the need in my case as the temperature stays at the desired setpoint and doesn't deviate. I probably forgot some things, but that is what sticks out to me right now.

I recently added an automatic bed levelling probe and had to get a new version of the firmware. All went without a hitch.
 
right now i have the issue of the first layor sticking to the bed
this printer has an automatic bed leveling
 
When you are ready to actually create stuff, you will need good software. If you ever want some help with that, I may be able to give you a hand.
 
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right now i have the issue of the first layor sticking to the bed
this printer has an automatic bed leveling
I have learned that you need a good clean bed, and I was told to clean with IPA just before starting and give it a few minutes to dry.

I know there is a lot of other info out there from folks with more experience than I have.
 
right now i have the issue of the first layor sticking to the bed
this printer has an automatic bed leveling
i just changed my bed to glass. and did the sheet of paper thing to get the right height for the nozzle. CHanging the bed to glass was probably overkill, but I was tired of messing about with the filament sticking to the bed.
 
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When you are ready to actually create stuff, you will need good software. If you ever want some help with that, I may be able to give you a hand.
Do you use Ultimaker Cura for the slicing program?
I am trying to learn how to use Freecad for generating the STL file. Is that what you use?
 
right now i have the issue of the first layor sticking to the bed
this printer has an automatic bed leveling
I also had issues with adhesion even using IPA and sanding with 800 grit. Finally changed to a Garolite surface and have been happy ever since. This is plastic alternative to glass.

At the scales we work, a resin printer would be more adequate. But there are the issues of fumes and ventilation, that in my case are an insurmountable obstacle to even consider having one.
 
for slicing i am using Creality Print a free download

you tube is very helpful there are a lot of tutorials on setting up to print.

i have found a few sites that you can hire 3D artists to create a STL file. You post a project and people will send you bids
 

3D printing is a hobby in itself, it will take a little time to learn the software then you have to fuss with the actual printing process. The use in this hobby is limited because a large % of builders build from kits and a kit will include everything you need. Scratch building or custom made parts is where 3D printing will come in handy. Personally i have an interest in early steam ships and you will find nothing in the way of kits that include a model of the engine. Figureheads, stern windows, fittings, crew figures, moldings and cannons are subjects for 3d printing. If you are not very good at carving or sculpting creating 3D models of figures and carved decorations may be a problem. you can hire a 3D artist to create the 3D STL file but 3D artists are expensive to hire just a simple figurehead will cost from $75.00 to $150.00 for the modeling and $45.00 to print it. Creating parts is far easier than modeling figures so start with making parts.


the process is so very slow and time consuming to first draw say a stern engine in 2D CAD then take it apart to create 3D STL files, slice it to produce a G code that a printer can read and print it will take 100s of hours.
if your into high end model engineering, or super one of a kind detailed modeling then this is for you. Or if you looking to do something different like printing all the framing pieces and all the parts in clear plastic and build a see through model of the Hannah this is for you.

Best Free 3D Modeling Software – Full Round-Up​

  1. Daz 3D: Daz Studio
  2. TinkerCAD: Best free 3D modeling software for beginners
  3. 3D Slash: Easy free 3D modeling software for beginners
  4. FreeCAD: Open source free 3D modeling software
  5. SketchUp
  6. Blender: Advanced free 3D modeling software
  7. Meshmixer
  8. Fusion 360
  9. Vectary
  10. SelfCAD
  11. BlocksCAD
  12. OpenSCAD
  13. Wings 3D
 
creating an object is so much easier than 3D sculpting and here is a get started in 3D modeling and printing
it is a cannon at fort Maldon in Canada

DSCN3507.JPG
 
I started 3d printing early last year, and have been using it extensivly for making small parts like swivel guns, deadeyes with and without a strop, cannon barrels,hooks cleats ect. I use freecad to design the parts and lychee for the slicing. the resin can be bought in colors like grey. white ,black and can even be tinted for custom colors. the savings are huge. Now that Crafty Sailor has shut down ( the only place to get quality blocks and deadeyes for a fair price) i will be making my own blocks and most fittings. Kudos to Dave and others who are branching out and exploring this new technology.
 
here is a get started on a 3d printed project
how big is it well lucky for us we have field notes to work with



24 lb cannon1.jpg24 lb carriage1.jpg24lb carriage2.jpg
starting with the frame as a CAD drawing

mc.JPG
 

Attachments

  • malden cannon test.dwg
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i brought this drawing into sketchup as a DXF file and added the Z depth

view1.jpgview2.jpgview3.jpgview4.jpgview5.jpg

save it out as a STL file so i can bring it into the slicing software
 
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