How to spec and buy MDF sheet for models

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Ennismore, Ontario
After Lady Nelson I am collaborating on another scratch build with my brother. A Great Lakes "propeller". I want to try using mdf sheet for the framework. We had some trouble with getting the right plywood on the last one. Does anyone know from experience a source in Canada for 4, 5 or 6mm thick mdf with excellent thickness tolerances and finish? I'm not sure how to spec it out. Is it high density?
 
MDF stands for Medium Density Fibreboard, so it's not high density. High density is known as hardboard over here.
I understood what the M means, but it must represent a range because I see listings like shown below. You would think "ultralight MDF" might be an oxymoron, but you can buy it in the US. I need to find a Canadian source, in maybe 2 x 2 ft (60 x 60 cm) because we are all in lockdown here in Ontaro, so all my shopping is online except for groceries and drugs. I can use plywood, but I like my experience with the mdf on my current kit, but the last plywood we used had voids in it and the interior plies were brittle.Screenshot_20210115-180213_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
That could be. It's the type of thing I'd like to know. There is apparently a grade you can get that resists moisture, but it may then not accept water based glues? Maybe I will pursue the plywood route.
 
Another product you could source easily would be flooring underlayment, usually made in 1/4" or 5 millimeter or so thickness. Its uniform and somewhat dense. Also model aircraft plywood, readily available in 1/64" to 1/4" thicknesses.
MDF is great as a bench topper or in cabinet applications-I'd stay away from it as a framing material for ship building though.
 
Another product you could source easily would be flooring underlayment, usually made in 1/4" or 5 millimeter or so thickness. Its uniform and somewhat dense. Also model aircraft plywood, readily available in 1/64" to 1/4" thicknesses.
MDF is great as a bench topper or in cabinet applications-I'd stay away from it as a framing material for ship building though.
Too late. I just finished the hull of an Amati model made from mdf false keel and bulkheads. After initially getting used to how it worked with files, I enjoyed the experience. The very consistent thickness and flat surface lets the manufacturer do excellent precision work with the laser and the fit was perfect. I will definitely be building more ships out of mdf. So the question was really how to get the right material, not whether it was a suitable material, but I sincerely appreciate the feedback. Just want to say where I am coming from.
 
In the UK, there is a version of MDF stained green which is 'water resistant' or some such, for use in bathroom / toilet areas. I don't know what thicknesses it is available in.
Remember to wear respiratory protection when filing or machining MDF, it is nasty stuff.
 
@Tangopapa , personally I agree with you working with mdf presents no problems whatsoever and is great to shape and form. For me water is not a problem with mdf as I do not do much modelling in the shower or near the kitchen sink!!ROTF
At any rate have you tried using baltic birch plywood? It is readily available online and is of high quality, it is a little pricey.
 
https://forestplywood.com/blog/composite/how-to-waterproof-mdf/
It should be noted that whichever method you use, MDF is moisture-resistant, not water-resistant, nor waterproof, and is still prone to swelling and warping if in direct contact with the elements. The first and easiest approach is to purchase MR MDF, which is designed to work well in interior applications where moisture is a concern.
 
@Tangopapa , personally I agree with you working with mdf presents no problems whatsoever and is great to shape and form. For me water is not a problem with mdf as I do not do much modelling in the shower or near the kitchen sink!!ROTF
At any rate have you tried using baltic birch plywood? It is readily available online and is of high quality, it is a little pricey.
Thanks Don. I agree. I do have a source of good Baltic birch in 3mm plywood at a company here that does specialty hardwoods and also sheet products. This company has all kinds of common and exotic hardwoods and a lot of musical instrument builders use them. It comes in 5 x 5 foot sheets, which should last for many years. My research so far is that water resistant MDF may contain wax and other waterproof additives so I would expect problems in glue adhering to it. Because it is a bit like a stew, you dont know exactly what is in it, I was trying to see if anyone had a supplier that they had experience with. Formaldehyde free versions are available also. But from a specialty shop with the type of clientele that I am looking at, they will know their product well.
 
https://forestplywood.com/blog/composite/how-to-waterproof-mdf/
It should be noted that whichever method you use, MDF is moisture-resistant, not water-resistant, nor waterproof, and is still prone to swelling and warping if in direct contact with the elements. The first and easiest approach is to purchase MR MDF, which is designed to work well in interior applications where moisture is a concern.
Actually, one of the positives of MDF is that it doesn't warp AND I can't foresee a reasonable probability that my model will get soaked. I gather from your strong opposition to it that you have never and would never use it. But from anyone who has used it on a scratch build, where did they get it? As to the stability of the material, I am no expert, I go by people like Chris Watton, who has discussed it in detail.
 
I have used it on a lot of stuff like the jewelry box that is my icon. I was just thinking of time after it's built. It will be subject to humidity and swelling. I know it works well (easy) but that is exactly why I wouldn't use it's unless it's painted or veneered. It is a very weak material and breaks easily, but alas, it's your ship and you can do it anyway you wish. I hope you have good luck using it and don't have any trouble in the years to come.
Eric
 
I have used it on a lot of stuff like the jewelry box that is my icon. I was just thinking of time after it's built. It will be subject to humidity and swelling. I know it works well (easy) but that is exactly why I wouldn't use it's unless it's painted or veneered. It is a very weak material and breaks easily, but alas, it's your ship and you can do it anyway you wish. I hope you have good luck using it and don't have any trouble in the years to come.
Eric
Thank you Eric. Knowing your specific experience helps put your input into context. Nice work on the jewelry box, to say the least, by the way.

Tim
 
In the UK, there is a version of MDF stained green which is 'water resistant' or some such, for use in bathroom / toilet areas. I don't know what thicknesses it is available in.
Remember to wear respiratory protection when filing or machining MDF, it is nasty stuff.
I would like to highlight the point that jimmystratos made,
The dust from MDF is really bad news it is best to use a mask along with dust extraction that has really good filtration.
All you need to do is seal the material with varnish and the moisture is not a problem also it is the end-grain that soaks up the moisture rapidly.
Personally I tend to avoid it most of the time these days because of the dust problem.

Cheers,
Stephen.
 
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