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Masts and Yardarms

Andy from Kenosha

Andy from Kenosha

Joined
Nov 16, 2018
Messages
145
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88

If there is one area of model ship building that I am lousy at, it's the proper shaping of masts and yardarms. Does anyone have any direction that they can give me, whether a book(s) or tutorial? Thank you so much, Andy from Kenosha.
 
I just use a cordless drill for tapering the masts and spars with corse sandpaper, then finish with fine sandpaper. It would also be a good investment for you to buy a digital caliper for getting the correct diameter. cheers.
 
If you do decide on a lathe, I highly suggest www.sherline.com as this is all they do is manufacture lathes and milling machines with all the accessories.

here is an example,



however, I am not showing how I am tapering the mast. I am tapering just using a coarse sandpaper and or a shaping tool to help get it started.
There is nothing wrong with using a drill and sandpaper as mentioned in the fore post. I have done this before. It is all up to you and what you can do and what you can afford. Good results can be obtained from many methods. I even used a MINI plane to taper my yards and mast when I did not have a drill nor a lathe.
It was all done by hand !!!
 
A.L. Thorsen said:
Thank you so much--I'll show this to my wife in order to justify buying a lathe (I've told her I need one).
Click to expand...
Actually, Andy is not a dream anymore. For about 40~50 bucks you can have the one similar to the one in the video. Check this out

Amazon.com: Yaetek Mini Lathe Beads Polisher Machine DIY Woodworking Craft Rotary Tool: Home Improvement

Amazon.com: Yaetek Mini Lathe Beads Polisher Machine DIY Woodworking Craft Rotary Tool: Home Improvement
www.amazon.com
 
Jimsky said:
Actually, Andy is not a dream anymore. For about 40~50 bucks you can have the one similar to the one in the video. Check this out

Amazon.com: Yaetek Mini Lathe Beads Polisher Machine DIY Woodworking Craft Rotary Tool: Home Improvement

Amazon.com: Yaetek Mini Lathe Beads Polisher Machine DIY Woodworking Craft Rotary Tool: Home Improvement
www.amazon.com
Click to expand...
For schooners after 1900 the masts were often straight on the forward side and tapering on the aft and sides. This was also true with booms, straight on the top with the sail being fastened on and tapered on the bottom and sides. Bluenose, 1921, is a good example of this but not all kits may include this type of tapering in the plans and instructions. Variations occurred with the different designers and ship yards across the years. Not being very familiar with square riggers and eras I cannot say about tapering of the spars. . . round from the suggestions above. Rich (PT-2)
 
Jimsky said:
Actually, Andy is not a dream anymore. For about 40~50 bucks you can have the one similar to the one in the video. Check this out

Amazon.com: Yaetek Mini Lathe Beads Polisher Machine DIY Woodworking Craft Rotary Tool: Home Improvement

Amazon.com: Yaetek Mini Lathe Beads Polisher Machine DIY Woodworking Craft Rotary Tool: Home Improvement
www.amazon.com
Click to expand...
Thanks Jimsky for that link--I checked it out and am extremely pleased that a lathe can be purchased for less than 40 bucks.
 
Donnie said:
If you do decide on a lathe, I highly suggest www.sherline.com as this is all they do is manufacture lathes and milling machines with all the accessories.

here is an example,



however, I am not showing how I am tapering the mast. I am tapering just using a coarse sandpaper and or a shaping tool to help get it started.
There is nothing wrong with using a drill and sandpaper as mentioned in the fore post. I have done this before. It is all up to you and what you can do and what you can afford. Good results can be obtained from many methods. I even used a MINI plane to taper my yards and mast when I did not have a drill nor a lathe.
It was all done by hand !!!
Click to expand...
Thanks Donnie.
 
I am going to try something fairly soon. I'm getting far enough along in my build and fabricating masts and yards is quickly approaching. I'm going to use a collet attachment for my lathe and see how that works. I'll try it on purchased dowels first though. I'll keep you posted.
 

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Tangopapa said:
"Maximum clamping length 120 mm / less than 5 inches"?
Click to expand...
Yes, it is relatively small as it costs... without the tailstock, you can process longer parts, Also you can make an extension to hold the longer part in the middle.
 
Bryian said:
I just use a cordless drill for tapering the masts and spars with corse sandpaper, then finish with fine sandpaper. It would also be a good investment for you to buy a digital caliper for getting the correct diameter. cheers.
Click to expand...
Can you tell me more about how you use a cordless drill?
 
Sure, Place the dowel thats to be tapered in the chuck of the drill and tighten it up. Then grab some sandpaper and operate the drill. You can easily taper the wood like that, then swap it around to do the other end. I have a lathe, but this technique is easier. cheers. ;)
 
I've had an idea for a while about a new type of tool (maybe there is one out there that I am not aware of). We use draw plates to make tree nails. What about a draw plate for masts and yardarms? The holes would be much bigger, but the principle is the same. Draw the mast or yardarm through to a particular point. Go the next size down and draw to the next appropriate point, etc. For yardwarms both ends of the dowel would have to be done. Maybe someone reading this has the engineering savvy to design such a plate and market it. If you do, let us all know! Andy from Kenosha.
 
Hello, Andy from Kenosha. Jim from Brooklyn here. ;) Have you actually tried making treenails using the draw plate? It is a very hard job to make the 0.5mm treenail from 0.9mm wood stock by using multiple holes in the drawplate. I just cannot imagine how much an effort you have to make to pull 10.00mm wood stock.
I think, using a v-block and small bench plane, we can make the yardarms and must for the entire ship until you pul 10.00mm wood stock using a draw plate.
 
Jimsky said:
Hello, Andy from Kenosha. Jim from Brooklyn here. ;) Have you actually tried making treenails using the draw plate? It is a very hard job to make the 0.5mm treenail from 0.9mm wood stock by using multiple holes in the drawplate. I just cannot imagine how much an effort you have to make to pull 10.00mm wood stock.
I think, using a v-block and small bench plane, we can make the yardarms and must for the entire ship until you pul 10.00mm wood stock using a draw plate.
Click to expand...
Jimsky said:
Hello, Andy from Kenosha. Jim from Brooklyn here. ;) Have you actually tried making treenails using the draw plate? It is a very hard job to make the 0.5mm treenail from 0.9mm wood stock by using multiple holes in the drawplate. I just cannot imagine how much an effort you have to make to pull 10.00mm wood stock.
I think, using a v-block and small bench plane, we can make the yardarms and must for the entire ship until you pul 10.00mm wood stock using a draw plate.
Click to expand...
I guess I'm "biting off more than I can chew". I'm not only relatively new at ship modeling--when it comes to tools I'm rather inexperienced.
 
A.L. Thorsen said:
I guess I'm "biting off more than I can chew". I'm not only relatively new at ship modeling--when it comes to tools I'm rather inexperienced.
Click to expand...
No worries at all, this is why we are here! ;) Some time back, I was new to this hobby, however, didn't have the luxury of the SOS website to help me with my endeavor. Start very small and advance as you succeed. I made my masts using a v-block (made by myself), plane, and sanding blocks. It is not hard at all, and I guaranteed it will be OK, without sweat and rubbing your bank account.

Here is a simple jig to taper the wood from one side using a plane or sanding block (depends on how much taper you need). You will turn the square stock as you taper each of the 4 sides. Just remember to take very small amounts of wood off with the plane, it takes time but it's the best way to proceed. It's also important that your plane is razor-sharp, and adjusted properly before you attempt to taper your mast.

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here some video


This one is my primer from all the time, It is made by great ship modeler master Mixail Bezverxnij (Dr, Mike), It is in Russian, but just watch and you will have an 'Aha' moment


Good luck! Let me know please if you need help.
 
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