RMS Titanic - Trumpeter 1/200

Joined
Jul 13, 2021
Messages
28
Points
48

Location
Beausejour, MB, Canada
Hi good folk of SOS!



I will try something I haven't done since I screwed up my friend's Tirpitz when I was about 14... I do build models and have some skill, but I don't measure up to most on here!



On to the build, I sold a few kits to make the Titanic fit the budget, and refurnished the model headquarters so that I could have a dedicated desk to my ship, whilst I also work on my other larger scale projects. I got the kit a couple months ago, and have started cleaning up decks to receive the wooden deck parts, and done some minor photo etch work, just ensure I can actually do this! PE is not my favorite material to work with, but I will attempt to do the ship some justice with these parts.



My plan is to build subassemblies where I can, and join these together as the build progresses. I have watched a few videos on Titanic builds and other ship builds to see what order I should work in, and what aftermarket sets to get. My 'research' has led me to get the KA Models from Korea for their set, which has PE, 3d printed parts, resin parts, and wooden decks. I have also gotten "fiber optic" strands to do the portholes, I got 5 different sizes, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5 and 3MM and also ordered drill bits to the same size so I can install and light the model completely. I have looked at the portholes from Scale Warship, but they don't seem to have them anymore. I also was looking at Stern Plates upgrades from MiniBrass in France, but I'm afraid that may be out of my skill area. We shall see!



Anyway, here is a picture of the model as she sits on my new work-table the kit is about 4.5 feet long so it takes most of the desk space, once I've "finished" the hull, I may move it to a side table so I can do sub assemblies and other projects at the main table.



G4zhsTj.jpg




The wiskers is drill swarf from the port holes, I've used Porthole Jiggs from Nigels Modeling Benc to drill pilot holes on all the ones that are to be drilled.



Thank you for letting post in this exceptional group of modelers!
 
Looking forward to your build. Will be anticipating your next post, have the Titanic in the stash just have to finish a few builds before starting.
 
Hi good folk of SOS!



I will try something I haven't done since I screwed up my friend's Tirpitz when I was about 14... I do build models and have some skill, but I don't measure up to most on here!



On to the build, I sold a few kits to make the Titanic fit the budget, and refurnished the model headquarters so that I could have a dedicated desk to my ship, whilst I also work on my other larger scale projects. I got the kit a couple months ago, and have started cleaning up decks to receive the wooden deck parts, and done some minor photo etch work, just ensure I can actually do this! PE is not my favorite material to work with, but I will attempt to do the ship some justice with these parts.



My plan is to build subassemblies where I can, and join these together as the build progresses. I have watched a few videos on Titanic builds and other ship builds to see what order I should work in, and what aftermarket sets to get. My 'research' has led me to get the KA Models from Korea for their set, which has PE, 3d printed parts, resin parts, and wooden decks. I have also gotten "fiber optic" strands to do the portholes, I got 5 different sizes, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5 and 3MM and also ordered drill bits to the same size so I can install and light the model completely. I have looked at the portholes from Scale Warship, but they don't seem to have them anymore. I also was looking at Stern Plates upgrades from MiniBrass in France, but I'm afraid that may be out of my skill area. We shall see!



Anyway, here is a picture of the model as she sits on my new work-table the kit is about 4.5 feet long so it takes most of the desk space, once I've "finished" the hull, I may move it to a side table so I can do sub assemblies and other projects at the main table.



G4zhsTj.jpg




The wiskers is drill swarf from the port holes, I've used Porthole Jiggs from Nigels Modeling Benc to drill pilot holes on all the ones that are to be drilled.



Thank you for letting post in this exceptional group of modelers!
Good luck with your build. Your current approach seems very similar to my own. I've been a Titanic 'fan' since I was young, which was long, long before the 1997 movie, so am adamant I want to do this kit as much justice as my skill set permits.
I like you work space; way more organised than my own. With PE, I've found the more you do it, the better you get at it, much like most things we do. :) If I may offer a suggestion, buy a small cheap PE set or two, not necessarily for the Titanic, and use them to develop you skills. It's worked for me and I am a total numpty when it comes to construction type tasks.
Anyway, I look forward to your build and will follow with interest.
Cheers,
Steve
 
Cheers for the words Steve, I have done quite a bit of PE, I'm just not very good at the mini-bits. I'll do my best, the rest we'll hide!

My other current project has a little PE, it is the HK Models Lancaster B.1 Cockpit display. I opted for some Eduard PE instrument Panels for it, but it is in 32nd, not 200th...

Cheers
Harald
 
Cheers for the words Steve, I have done quite a bit of PE, I'm just not very good at the mini-bits. I'll do my best, the rest we'll hide!

My other current project has a little PE, it is the HK Models Lancaster B.1 Cockpit display. I opted for some Eduard PE instrument Panels for it, but it is in 32nd, not 200th...

Cheers
Harald
Hey Harald,

PE is certainly an 'art' in this hobby, but done right it looks amazing and adds so much detail, especially to plastic kits. I've got a 1/200 USS Arizona underway, but currently paused. I like the Eduard PE sets and have their full range for the Arizona, but I royally stuffed up the tripod masts and need to order another set, cut and sand back my previous efforts and start afresh. Hence the old battlewagon is currently on the shelf for a while as I tackle the Titanic. :)

Cheers,
Steve
 
Yes... I have had to purchase kit #2 and even #3 from them for other projects... (don't tell my wife!)

I ordered Fibre Optic for the port holes and metric drill bits, which are surprisingly tough to come by in a country that uses metric!

I was setting up to order the portholes for C-Deck from Scale Warship, but as it happens, they are out of stock, and ordered a reprint but that is 4 weeks away (not that that is a problem... I have years of work ahead...)

Tonight I'm ordering the stern plates from MiniBrass... I wasn't going to, but oh well, I can afford it, and it has some cool details. Worth a look! I would post a link but I'm new, so unsure if I can! I'll show pictures when it shows up!
 
Yes... I have had to purchase kit #2 and even #3 from them for other projects... (don't tell my wife!)

I ordered Fibre Optic for the port holes and metric drill bits, which are surprisingly tough to come by in a country that uses metric!

I was setting up to order the portholes for C-Deck from Scale Warship, but as it happens, they are out of stock, and ordered a reprint but that is 4 weeks away (not that that is a problem... I have years of work ahead...)

Tonight I'm ordering the stern plates from MiniBrass... I wasn't going to, but oh well, I can afford it, and it has some cool details. Worth a look! I would post a link but I'm new, so unsure if I can! I'll show pictures when it shows up!
Hi mate,

I'm using various sizes of acrylic rod for the port holes at the moment (acquired, but not installed as I haven't painted the hull yet), but considering getting fibre now instead. Where did you get yours? FYI, Tamiya have a nifty little set of metric drill bits which I picked up at my local hobby store. Let me know if you can't find any suitable.

If you have a link to the MinBrass site, just copy it out of the address bar in your browser, then paste it into a reply to me. It should carry the hyperlink over; if not, I can just copy and paste. I've started working some of the stern changes manually, but it is a bit of work.

Cheers,
Steve
 
Hi!

I've ordered "Fiberoptic rod" which isn't really glass fibre but flexible acrylic rod I believe. I ordered those from Lighthouse LED. I ordered 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5 AND 3 MM diameters, and ordered drill bits in the same sizes from Amazon.

the brass parts are from Minibrass Titanic Stern Plates

As for tools, I have a lot, I buy the drill bits from Princess Auto, they do regularly have the drill bit indexes from sizes 61 to 80 which are extremely small. Also Dspiae tools are amazing, but the drills holds the machine tool drill bits, however they can be had from Alibaba for next to nothing.

Cheers
Harald
 
Here is the first of the few "after market" Items.

Ordered drill bits from Amazon.ca, these are 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5 and 3mm and will compliment the Fibre Optic strands ordered from LighthouseLED.com

I thought the set was 5 bits each, but it was 50, 10 of each so I'm a happy camper. they were $17 Canadian including shipping so one of the cheaper parts of this build!

ggZmfH0.jpg
 
Nice sets! :) ... but even 1.0 mm in your scale(if calculate real size of the hole made by 1 mm drill ) is still too big ... but of course all depends on where You planned to use them... by my experience, for example for making holes for ring bolts in the decks, mostly we be need some 0.3 or 0.5 mm drills, but this is for 1:100 scale...
just my suggestion :)
 
For the visual impact of the portholes, they are perfect, for other things like stays and rigging I have drillbits down to 0.1mm, so plenty thin for that. I have a Dspiae Pin Vise/Hand drill, which included 0.1 to 1.3mm bits, and I also purchased a bunch of extras.
 
Here is the first of the few "after market" Items.

Ordered drill bits from Amazon.ca, these are 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5 and 3mm and will compliment the Fibre Optic strands ordered from LighthouseLED.com

I thought the set was 5 bits each, but it was 50, 10 of each so I'm a happy camper. they were $17 Canadian including shipping so one of the cheaper parts of this build!

ggZmfH0.jpg
Wow. Great deal and nice bits.! Such an excellent price; couldn't get that over here, for sure, for that price. :)
 
OK, I wanted to touch some glue to plastic, I decided to start with the deck houses, and do them as mini-kits within the kit itself. I started with sanding off any minor detail that needed gone. Basically I have cleaned all the decks to be ready for the wooden deck, and now I did all the sides of the Boat Deck-houses. there were hatches, railings and ladders to remove.

The first one I completed only had 2 portholes, 1 hatch/door and a ladder. this one sits on top of the 2nd class promenade entrance. I also started with the windows, for the actual entry, but will have to figure out how to diffuse and distribute the light this far up on my kit. I have thought of using parchment paper without wax glued behind the windows, clear acetate behind the PE then the PE frame, I guess all I can do is try!

So, not much to show, only had 1 hour at the bench yesterday, but better than no hour!

7jhDQRo.jpg

Deck-houses with details removed

The door looks crooked, but I swear it's straight!
eEkNgAL.jpg


Where the little house goes:
syqzz0e.jpg


The window frames fit very exactly into the frames. Now I just have to figure how to get the "glass" cut. I may try to use my wife's Cameo cutter.
omiQ1AN.jpg


There are quite a few of these, and there are 3 points to remove on each.. careful but relaxed work!
BUUWiwD.jpg
 
OK, I wanted to touch some glue to plastic, I decided to start with the deck houses, and do them as mini-kits within the kit itself. I started with sanding off any minor detail that needed gone. Basically I have cleaned all the decks to be ready for the wooden deck, and now I did all the sides of the Boat Deck-houses. there were hatches, railings and ladders to remove.

The first one I completed only had 2 portholes, 1 hatch/door and a ladder. this one sits on top of the 2nd class promenade entrance. I also started with the windows, for the actual entry, but will have to figure out how to diffuse and distribute the light this far up on my kit. I have thought of using parchment paper without wax glued behind the windows, clear acetate behind the PE then the PE frame, I guess all I can do is try!

So, not much to show, only had 1 hour at the bench yesterday, but better than no hour!

7jhDQRo.jpg

Deck-houses with details removed

The door looks crooked, but I swear it's straight!
eEkNgAL.jpg


Where the little house goes:
syqzz0e.jpg


The window frames fit very exactly into the frames. Now I just have to figure how to get the "glass" cut. I may try to use my wife's Cameo cutter.
omiQ1AN.jpg


There are quite a few of these, and there are 3 points to remove on each.. careful but relaxed work!
BUUWiwD.jpg
Hey Winnie,
Are they the window frames from the Mk.1 detail kit, or the PE that actually comes with the kit? My detail-up kit is on it's way, but I assume the details on which moulded items need to be removed and/or modified are all captured within the instructions?
Making the deckhouses as sub-assemblies sounds like an interesting path forward; I may follow your leader. :)
Cheers,
Steve
 
Steve, the window frames are all on “fret-A” of PE parts in the KA set. If your trade es set is early you may run out of frames as they made a mistake later corrected. There’s a Facebook group that has pictures of all the frets. I can give info on that in a PM if you’d like later.
Cheers
Harald
 
Hi Harald,
I told the kit is one of the later 'upgrades' so hopefully I'll be good. Please send through the FB into; that would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Steve
 
Whilst awaiting the fiberoptics, I decided that I should make windows for the rest of the ship. There are some "stained glass" windows for the finer stuff, but none of the other windows were included, so I decided I'd cut some out. 1 attempt with the exacto and I knew that was a disaster waiting to happen, however the wife has a Silhouette Cameo, and I dabbled in making paper tape masks for windows for my airplanes, so I thought, why the heck not!

pjYTHT1.jpg


This is what the houses look without the acetate window

How they look with:
(Oh and I HAVE noticed that the brown isn't sticking even with primer under... I need to find a better primer...)
yvjL7LN.jpg


I decided to create all the windows so that it would make my job easier.

M50X7Vg.jpg


So! there it is, saved many hours making windows, now I just need to get the last few pieces!
 
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