Various types of glue

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I thought I would post a thread on glues--any and all advice and suggestions are more than welcome. The reason I'm posting this is because I have finished the framing of Caldercraft's HMS Victory and am beginning the planking process. Over 40 years ago I purchased my very first plank-on-frame wooden ship model kit, namely, Sergal's Great Harry. The store manager of Ship's Unlimited (no longer around) where I purchased the kit told me that when I begin the planking process that contact cement works great. He was right! I applied the contact cement to each frame and on the plank. I waited a couple of minutes and then applied it again, but only to the frames. When I pressed the plank into position it was immediately bonded to the ship. No nails are necessary--the glue holds it in place with a "death-grip"! For this reason, you need to be positive about your placement of the plank, because it ain't gonna come off without damaging the plank and perhaps the frame. Try it out on some scrape wood to see if you would want to use it for your ships. Personally, I love using it. I'm not very handy with a hammer and nails! I hope this clarifies any thoughts that some of you might have had about contact cement. Please bring forth both positive and negative comments in regards to using contact cement in the world of model ship building.

Thank you so much,

Andy from Kenosha
 
I thought I would post a thread on glues--any and all advice and suggestions are more than welcome. The reason I'm posting this is because I have finished the framing of Caldercraft's HMS Victory and am beginning the planking process. Over 40 years ago I purchased my very first plank-on-frame wooden ship model kit, namely, Sergal's Great Harry. The store manager of Ship's Unlimited (no longer around) where I purchased the kit told me that when I begin the planking process that contact cement works great. He was right! I applied the contact cement to each frame and on the plank. I waited a couple of minutes and then applied it again, but only to the frames. When I pressed the plank into position it was immediately bonded to the ship. No nails are necessary--the glue holds it in place with a "death-grip"! For this reason, you need to be positive about your placement of the plank, because it ain't gonna come off without damaging the plank and perhaps the frame. Try it out on some scrape wood to see if you would want to use it for your ships. Personally, I love using it. I'm not very handy with a hammer and nails! I hope this clarifies any thoughts that some of you might have had about contact cement. Please bring forth both positive and negative comments in regards to using contact cement in the world of model ship building.

Thank you so much,

Andy from Kenosha
Hi Andy
Good discussion topic indeed.
The issue I have with contact cement is that you have to wait about 10 minutes before assembling pieces together. Not sure this is ideal for planking.
I do use various glues depending the cases. FOr planks I use wood glue and nails. When needing fast bonding I use CA glue (bob Smith)
I also use UHU Hart quite a bit.
 
another is that you have zero time for adjustment. Nice to have a little "wiggle" room when you glue. (I hate that stuff on my fingers)
 
Two part five minute epoxy is less time consuming and gives '"wiggle room" before it sets. I mix it on a piece of thick glass and after use, scrape off the residue with an old xacto knife. After using it for a while, you can get good at knowing how much to use and how long before it sets.
 
Hi Andy,

I have not tried contact cement, though it doesn't seem like something that would suit me, I need some adjusting time.

My go to for gluing wood, wood to brass is Titebond 2 or 3 either one works well in my opinion, plenty of time to position, easy to clean and no nasty fumes like superglue, the main drawback being a need to clamp or pin while the glue sets.

For me epoxy gets messy, probably just me.

Cheers,
Stephen.
 
I'm on my first POB build and based on what I've read here and on other sites I used white PVA (Elmer's Glue All) for almost all of my gluing from keel and bulkheads to deck planking and the first layer of hull planking. For me, I could cut and fit a plank for one side while the glue on the matching plank on the opposite side was drying. I used modified binder clips and small round head map pins to hold the plank in place. I'm preparing to start the second layer of hull planking and intend to continue using PVA. It works for me.
 
i use Titebond 2 or 3 but what i do is pour a little in something like a film container or small jar and let it sit open until it becomes thicker. when it is thicker it becomes tacky.
 
I have found good experience using CA gel for planking. A drop on the glue points, hold in place with fingers for a count of ten and 90 percent bond. Once in awhile I need to hold longer, or if there is excessive torque in the plank I use some kind of clamp to allow the CA gell to cure without the stress of the torque on the plank. And the clamp is mainly because I get impatient just holding with my fingers for the extra cure time. If you have access to the glue point you can use a drop of CA accelerator for an instant bond...good for those sharp curved bow planks! :) Anyway…CA gel is what I use for planking.
 
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Hello all, an interesting topic - I use Fevicol from India I think, its white PVA but extremely strong. It also dries quickly so you can work with a good speed. No PINS or CLAMPS or NAILS to hold. Apply and go.

This product has become very popular in Kenya by all construction and furniture companies and comes in various sizes. Its a beautiful product and behaves like between wood glue, contact cement and super glue just apply and bang done! Wipe off the access and continue planking. It can also be thinned with water if required.

Hope this is useful too.

40006115_6-pidilite-fevicol-easy-flow-white-glue-for-art-craft.jpg

Thank you all.

Regards from Mombasa.

Saif
 
Wmgrimball: That 2-part epoxy sounds good--I would like to try that out. Being epoxy, it is probably stronger that contact cement.
Saif: That Fevicol is something I'm going to check out--hopefully I can find it in the USA.

Thanks Wmgrimball and Saif.
 
Wmgrimball: That 2-part epoxy sounds good--I would like to try that out. Being epoxy, it is probably stronger that contact cement.
Saif: That Fevicol is something I'm going to check out--hopefully I can find it in the USA.

Thanks Wmgrimball and Saif.
Hey Andy, yes I suppose you can get it on AMAZON so yes it can be delivered to the USA.

All you guys should try this product - believe me its a wonderglue and I highly recommend it for wooden model ship building. You wont regret it guys.

Regards - Mombasa.

Saif
 
I use contact cement for the planks to the deck. Wood glue warps the false deck, I found. If someone has a solution to this, it would be great to read.
Hello Jack,

Try this product that I recommend - it is far much superior then any wood glue that you may have used. It wont wrap that I propmise.

Regards from Mombasa,

Saif
 
Hello all, an interesting topic - I use Fevicol from India I think, its white PVA but extremely strong. It also dries quickly so you can work with a good speed. No PINS or CLAMPS or NAILS to hold. Apply and go.

This product has become very popular in Kenya by all construction and furniture companies and comes in various sizes. Its a beautiful product and behaves like between wood glue, contact cement and super glue just apply and bang done! Wipe off the access and continue planking. It can also be thinned with water if required.

Hope this is useful too.

View attachment 259931

Thank you all.

Regards from Mombasa.

Saif
This sounds very good - I will test it....
 
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