Various types of glue

[Jeff T]

i use Titebond 2 or 3 but what i do is pour a little in something like a film container or small jar and let it sit open until it becomes thicker. when it is thicker it becomes tacky.

I thought I was the only person to do this!

 

[Gilbertm]

Hello Jack,

Try this product that I recommend - it is far much superior then any wood glue that you may have used. It wont wrap that I propmise.

Regards from Mombasa,

Saif

Hello Saif
I just ordered Fevicol MR and will let you know my feedback once I receive it
Thanks for the recommendation
Take care

 

[Uwek]

I thought I would post a thread on glues--any and all advice and suggestions are more than welcome. The reason I'm posting this is because I have finished the framing of Caldercraft's HMS Victory and am beginning the planking process. Over 40 years ago I purchased my very first plank-on-frame wooden ship model kit, namely, Sergal's Great Harry. The store manager of Ship's Unlimited (no longer around) where I purchased the kit told me that when I begin the planking process that contact cement works great. He was right! I applied the contact cement to each frame and on the plank. I waited a couple of minutes and then applied it again, but only to the frames. When I pressed the plank into position it was immediately bonded to the ship. No nails are necessary--the glue holds it in place with a "death-grip"! For this reason, you need to be positive about your placement of the plank, because it ain't gonna come off without damaging the plank and perhaps the frame. Try it out on some scrape wood to see if you would want to use it for your ships. Personally, I love using it. I'm not very handy with a hammer and nails! I hope this clarifies any thoughts that some of you might have had about contact cement. Please bring forth both positive and negative comments in regards to using contact cement in the world of model ship building.

Thank you so much,

Andy from Kenosha

Hallo @Andy from Kenosha,
We wish you all the best and a happy Birthday

 

[Oldog]

I thought I would post a thread on glues--any and all advice and suggestions are more than welcome. The reason I'm posting this is because I have finished the framing of Caldercraft's HMS Victory and am beginning the planking process. Over 40 years ago I purchased my very first plank-on-frame wooden ship model kit, namely, Sergal's Great Harry. The store manager of Ship's Unlimited (no longer around) where I purchased the kit told me that when I begin the planking process that contact cement works great. He was right! I applied the contact cement to each frame and on the plank. I waited a couple of minutes and then applied it again, but only to the frames. When I pressed the plank into position it was immediately bonded to the ship. No nails are necessary--the glue holds it in place with a "death-grip"! For this reason, you need to be positive about your placement of the plank, because it ain't gonna come off without damaging the plank and perhaps the frame. Try it out on some scrape wood to see if you would want to use it for your ships. Personally, I love using it. I'm not very handy with a hammer and nails! I hope this clarifies any thoughts that some of you might have had about contact cement. Please bring forth both positive and negative comments in regards to using contact cement in the world of model ship building.

Thank you so much,

Andy from Kenosha

Hey Andy, great post. I'm new to SOS and wood model ship building. My wife purchased the Endeavour for me and I'm about 120 hours into just completing the hull, rudder assy, etc. I started with gorilla super glue and have went thru 2 5 gram bottles, about 1/3rd of a 25 gram bottle. I recently graduated to Starbond medium HP cyanoacrylate which some other members recommended, I'm pretty happy with the results. I also use some Titebond white wood glue

 

[TnAeroNut]

I use Titebond where possible, but CA is often required. The best way that I've found for keeping CA off your hands is this "shielding lotion," https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYTBM7Y/. I put a light coat on both palms and fingers, let it dry, and proceed. It even works pretty well to remove CA after I have forgotten to put it on before starting the job

 

[AMack]

I purchased some Fevicol MR and it seems to be a reasonable glue but didn't think it was special. The part I liked most was the bottle and the means of applying it which is very good.
I have tried a great range of glues but am yet to find a PVA better than Deluxe Materials Speedbond it is my glue of choice and as the name suggest, sets in a very short time for a PVA. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/185301433162.
The other I use regularly when CA is required is Zap-A-Gap Medium I find it easy to work with and a good level of viscosity. https://robart.com/collections/zap-a-gap/products/zap-a-gap-ca.