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LUCZORAMA SHIPWRECK SCAVENGER HUNT GIVEAWAY. 4 Weeks of Fun • 1 Legendary Prize ((OcCre’s Fram Ship)) • Global Crew Welcome!
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La Belle Poule 1780 by Thomas
- Thread starter Thomas Marocke
- Start date
- Watchers 37
Hi "gdef"
Why doesn't the kit manufacturer make the frames on one piece?
On a good plan, the frames are shown like this.
The laser can only laser from one side. The sanding mark on the back side cannot be lasered at the same time. Therefore, there is the same frame for the back side with new sanding markings.
This makes it easier for the model builder to create the frame shaping according to the markings as shown in the plan.
Best regards
Thomas
Why doesn't the kit manufacturer make the frames on one piece?
On a good plan, the frames are shown like this.
The laser can only laser from one side. The sanding mark on the back side cannot be lasered at the same time. Therefore, there is the same frame for the back side with new sanding markings.
This makes it easier for the model builder to create the frame shaping according to the markings as shown in the plan.
Best regards
Thomas
For those who wondered why one side of the double frames is higher than the other, here is the explanation: the double frames are finally ground at an angle of three degrees at the top.
The deck supports are also ascending and is slightly slanted.
At the bow also three degrees ascending to the figurehead.
It is almost impossible to work this accurately with a file, but it is quite easy with a disc sander with a angle table.
Best regards
Thomas
After the first machined pair of frames, you think you'll never finish. . .
. . . and than it is done.
The expected reward of the grinding and the saw dust is the longed-for view through a part of the hull. Nothing is glued yet.
Best regards
Thomas
Hallo Thomas,
Very nice work on this extraordinary kit that presents a completely new variant of ship model building.
I will continue to follow your work with interest.
Very nice work on this extraordinary kit that presents a completely new variant of ship model building.
I will continue to follow your work with interest.
After all repairs and other work for the garden and wife are done I could model again today.
The deck was a bit bent and bounced upwards. So it was already freed once from the platform to take out the tension. The bow and stern areas were also sawed out to better fit the plastic components later and to be able to safely remove the finished hull.
Everything was temporarily reassembled and the first two frames glued in place.
Not everything always goes well. The wooden glue containing water caused the frames to warp.
The frames bent inward at the sensitive joints.
After that, I changed to a water-free two-component glue and all was well.
On the left the wood glue used first, on the right the water-free glue. By the way, the frames glued with "Ponal" straightened back to their original position by themselves after drying. Still a scare!
Best regards
Thomas
The deck was a bit bent and bounced upwards. So it was already freed once from the platform to take out the tension. The bow and stern areas were also sawed out to better fit the plastic components later and to be able to safely remove the finished hull.
Everything was temporarily reassembled and the first two frames glued in place.
Not everything always goes well. The wooden glue containing water caused the frames to warp.
The frames bent inward at the sensitive joints.
After that, I changed to a water-free two-component glue and all was well.
On the left the wood glue used first, on the right the water-free glue. By the way, the frames glued with "Ponal" straightened back to their original position by themselves after drying. Still a scare!
Best regards
Thomas
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Wow. That would have scared me too. That is the first time I have heard of wood glue warping frames. I am aware that veneer sometimes causes a problem, but never frames. Good save though Thomas - all is well that ends well!
Good morning Thomas- a little bit of good fortune came your way for sure- I was wondering how you would fix that bend while reading. Love your work. Cheers Grant
Hi Grant!
Wood always moves, especially in the presence of moisture. The direction of the wood fiber helps to decide which way it bends more.
In the case of the frames, you would need two wood fiber directions.
For the ship's side it is correct. But for the lower leg, unfortunately, it is wrong. The absorption of adhesive water causes the wood to expand and bent. When it dries, it tries to return to its original shape. Unfortunately, the lower leg cannot be pressed against the deck to prevent warping when the glues dries.
Even is everything is done correctly, the "Victory's" conservators struggle to keep her from breaking apart. I was told this in Portsmouth.
Best regards
Thomas
Wood always moves, especially in the presence of moisture. The direction of the wood fiber helps to decide which way it bends more.
In the case of the frames, you would need two wood fiber directions.
For the ship's side it is correct. But for the lower leg, unfortunately, it is wrong. The absorption of adhesive water causes the wood to expand and bent. When it dries, it tries to return to its original shape. Unfortunately, the lower leg cannot be pressed against the deck to prevent warping when the glues dries.Even is everything is done correctly, the "Victory's" conservators struggle to keep her from breaking apart. I was told this in Portsmouth.
Best regards
Thomas
your nice sketch is explaining everything - many thanks
The last frames at the stern could be glued with wood glue without distotion. They are clearly higher in the lower area.
Except for the first frame, all are mounted and fit well. The ship's deck also no longer bounces. The brass rods are material for the lathe and serve only as weight.
Best regards
Thomas
The assembly of the plastic bow parts.
The bow centerpiece is made from two wooden components. Machined on the left, unmachined on the right.
Glued together.
The bow parts. Left raw with manufacturing residues, right smoothed.
There are no right angles? All sides have to be straightened.
Prepared for gluing. By removing them from the assembly mold ahead of time allows a closer look at the asembly.
The bow components have been glued and must dry for 12 hours.
Best regards
Thomas
The bow centerpiece is made from two wooden components. Machined on the left, unmachined on the right.
Glued together.
The bow parts. Left raw with manufacturing residues, right smoothed.
There are no right angles? All sides have to be straightened.
Prepared for gluing. By removing them from the assembly mold ahead of time allows a closer look at the asembly.
The bow components have been glued and must dry for 12 hours.
Best regards
Thomas
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Finished bow section.
And with deck inserted on a trial basis.
I would have liked a wooden molded bow better. But to simplify for the modeler, this way is helpful for many.
Best regards
Thomas
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Now it's getting serious!
The stern parts had already been shaped to fit once, but have formed back again.
So the butt of La Belle Poule had to go into the cooking pot once more.
So far it looks good.
If the parts keeps its shape, it will be used. If it retracts and creates tension, it will be rebuilt from wood.
Best regards
Thomas
The stern parts had already been shaped to fit once, but have formed back again.
So the butt of La Belle Poule had to go into the cooking pot once more.
So far it looks good.
If the parts keeps its shape, it will be used. If it retracts and creates tension, it will be rebuilt from wood.
Best regards
Thomas
Very interesting and informative photos - it is a pleasure to follow your log
I was not really satisfied with the manuelly bent plastic ship's sides.
So they were cut off and will be rebuilt from wood. Actually, they should fit exactly out of the kit. Revell, Airfix, Heller etc. can do this! I don't really trust the soft plastic, but maybe I'm too suspicious?
From this stage of construction, the rebuild is done in classic construction and pear wood. The European pear wood is darker and stronger than the kit wood.
Best regards
Thomas
So they were cut off and will be rebuilt from wood. Actually, they should fit exactly out of the kit. Revell, Airfix, Heller etc. can do this! I don't really trust the soft plastic, but maybe I'm too suspicious?
From this stage of construction, the rebuild is done in classic construction and pear wood. The European pear wood is darker and stronger than the kit wood.Best regards
Thomas
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Very good work Thomas! And I agree totally with the decision to cut off the offending part and redo it out of wood. But then again, not all modelers would have that confidence and skill to pull off something like that. The kit manufacturer needs to look at the plastic used and the molding process.
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Dear Thomas
I do not have the model, but your line of thought seems logical and smart, to which I would add that in my eyes always wood is more beautiful and suitable than plastic, especially pear wood.
Good luck, I would love to follow the upgrade