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Copper tiles - CA glue alternative

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jim D
  • Start date Start date
  • Watchers Watchers 21
I also had a problem with CA glue until someone on this site told me about Bob Smith Industries Super Gold CA glue, I'm not sure the reason but this glue does not make my throat close up or burn my nostrils or cause me to sneeze for days on end. It is a little more expensive than other CA glues but it has worked for me. I would try it if I were you. They have a website and the information about the glue can be found on the site. The black top is for gap filling and the white is thin. 1720886086887.png
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I am so, so thankful for this thread. I too have developed an intense reaction to CA glue vapour. It seems like I almost instantly go into a combination of stuffed up nose (swollen nasal membrane) combined with non-stop nose running. It lasts for the better part of a week before I'm back to normal, and given that I'm also a CPAP user, it means I go through a week's worth of really bad quality sleep with lots of apnea events. Ugly situation. I've had limited success using an expensive chemical vapour filtration mask, but as others have noted, they're hard to wear along with glasses. So anything that can let me continue my hobby without the horrible side effects will be a godsend. Now at least it appears I have some options, and even if the costs are high, it will be more than worth it (IMHO). It's a quality of life and quality of hobby satisfaction scenario.
 
I have never had any allergy problems with cyanoacrylic glue, but certainly the smell of fumes can be annoying.
I can report how I handle the use of this type of glue.
First of all I use a glue distributed in Italy, also on Amazon, called COLLA 21, which in my opinion is significantly better than that of Loctite. Here is the link to Amazon:

I also regularly use micro tips for glue bottles, like these found on Amazon

In this way I obtain a minimum consumption of glue, no perceptible fumes development and the glue can be positioned exactly where needed, with extreme precision.
I hope I was helpful.
 
I used Weldwood Contact Cement on my ESSEX model and saved some samples from over 50 years ago. The plates are impossible to remove from the substrate. If you can reference the NRG Shopnotes, Vol II Chapter 13, you can read my article on the "how to" of coppering. NOTE: do not use water based contact Cement, only the nasty chemical based glue.
 
Ismaele said:
I have never had any allergy problems with cyanoacrylic glue, but certainly the smell of fumes can be annoying.
I can report how I handle the use of this type of glue.
First of all I use a glue distributed in Italy, also on Amazon, called COLLA 21, which in my opinion is significantly better than that of Loctite. Here is the link to Amazon:

I also regularly use micro tips for glue bottles, like these found on Amazon

In this way I obtain a minimum consumption of glue, no perceptible fumes development and the glue can be positioned exactly where needed, with extreme precision.
I hope I was helpful.
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Trust me, when you develop a sensitivity to CA glue, it takes next to nothing to trigger a strong reaction. I too use micro tips that I purchased off Amazon (I think it was a bag of a hundred). They're great, because not only do they provide a small dispensing tip, but they reach a long ways into where you need to apply the glue. However, even with the use of the tips, as soon as I'm exposed to vapours from the curing glue, I know I'm in trouble. Personally, I'm gong to try out the Bob Smith Industries Super Gold product, as its something I can readily source from a local hobby shop
 
Have a look at Super'Phatic glue from Deluxe Materials. Listed as an alternative to CA and a fraction of the price of Loctite.

Pete
 
Jim D said:
I found plenty of Bob Smith's CA glue listed on Amazon, but can't find any that says non-toxic.
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I also have a very bad reaction to CA but the Bob Smith super gold foam safe glue doesn't seem to effect me I have been using them both thick and thin when doing PE
It is more expensive and not quite as quick to go off but worth every penny
Andy
 
ive used copper tape sold for stained glass that has an adhesive backing. still stuck on from 40 years ago.

so what alergic reactions do you guys get from ca glue? lately i have some sort of skin scale from crazy glue that didnt show at first but a week later my skin is peeling in a couple spots on my index finger n its neighbor when i repaired my grand kids toy. is that a reaction? i did clean my hands of some ooze out after use with nail polish remover (acetone).

i do hate the fumes it gives off... burns my eyes n nose.
 
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paul ron said:
ive used copper tape sold for stained glass that has an adhesive backing. still stuck on from 40 years ago.

so what alergic reactions do you guys get from ca glue? lately i have some sort of skin scale from crazy glue that didnt show at first but a week later my skin is peeling in a couple spots on my index finger n its neighbor when i repaired my grand kids toy. is that a reaction? i did clean my hands of some ooze out after use with nail polish remover (acetone).

i do hate the fumes it gives off... burns my eyes n nose.
Click to expand...
Like the heaviest cold you have ever had or hay-fever...streaming nose sneezing can't get your breath
Really nasty and it doesn't go away once you stop using it it seems to last 5 to 6 days .. I didn't used to be bothered by it until I started fitting the copper tiles to my Agamememnon. I gave up modeling for a few years . Bob Smith saved my sanity lol
 
maltbyguy said:
I also have a very bad reaction to CA but the Bob Smith super gold foam safe glue doesn't seem to effect me I have been using them both thick and thin when doing PE
It is more expensive and not quite as quick to go off but worth every penny
Andy
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Andy, it's called 'odourless' (suitable for foam). I've been using Wireless Madness as a supplier.

Stuart
 
threebs said:
One of my ships. I use copper tape. I cannot properly simulate a nail head in 1/72 scale. It would be 1/256th of an inch to be in scale.
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3Bs
THANK YOU FOR YOUR POST. I agree with you that the plates in photos from every supplier that I have seen are out of scale and in some cases they protrude like rivet heads which looks even worse! Incorrectly sized laser cut circles can look just as out-of-scale if they are like those in post #9 above. A simple laser cut dot at the proper scales would be easier for the manufacturer and would look realistic. Subtlety is a good thing at times. The below sketch is based on information from Peter Goodwin in The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War. The nails used were typically 5/32" with a head of about 5/16" so the size of the dents if made with a ponce wheel or lasered dots can be easily calculated. Note the spacing as well.
Allan
Copper sheathing per Goodwin.JPGCopper plating USS Constitution.jpg
 
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maltbyguy said:
Like the heaviest cold you have ever had or hay-fever...streaming nose sneezing can't get your breath
Really nasty and it doesn't go away once you stop using it it seems to last 5 to 6 days .. I didn't used to be bothered by it until I started fitting the copper tiles to my Agamememnon. I gave up modeling for a few years . Bob Smith saved my sanity lol
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nasty chemicals in ca. im sure they are very toxic, maybe its a chemical poison reaction from the fumes it out gasses? i just dont use it anymore. i rather use epoxy for jobs pva doesnt work on.
 
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