PVA glue

[pugwash]

Having found nothing searching the forum, I'd appreciate some advice on removal of excess PVA glue squashed out of joints.
While wet, it's water soluble...but what to do if it is discovered when set or partially set. Thank you.

 

[Jack Sparrow]

Having found nothing searching the forum, I'd appreciate some advice on removal of excess PVA glue squashed out of joints.
While wet, it's water soluble...but what to do if it is discovered when set or partially set. Thank you.

I hate to say this, but in my opinion, the only alternative is to sand that PVA. Fortunately it sands well. I had the same problem as yourself and that is all I could find to clean the joints.

 

[Corsair]

Sand, slice, or if needed, I believe you can soften it with heat.

 

[rtibbs]

Making small scrapers from single edge razor blades work well for removing dried glue in confined places and whole blades in larger areas

 

[Roger Pellett]

Denatured alcohol is a solvent for PVA glue. Brush some on and let it sit for a few minutes. It will get gummy and can be easily removed.

Roge,r

 

[pugwash]

Thanks for your input, guys.

'Slicing and dicing' has been the only way I've found; I was hoping for a softer solution, in a chemical sort of way.

I'm going to be building one of those 'FALCONET' 1:72 miniature boat kits.
I don't want to be using cyano, which gives off fumes that I'm sensitive to.
My only alternatives seem to be PVA, UHU, shellac or possibly seccotine.
Wetting/soaking/heating aren't options.

 

[Kurt Konrath]

As you said, easier to clean when new and wet, than sand, slice and scrape when it was dried.

 

[Roger Pellett]

The Nitrocellulose adhesives are often overlooked. These are the old glues used to build balsa/tissue model airplanes. Here in the US they are sold by the brand names Duco and Ambroid. A close relative is the lacquer type clear fingernail polish. I keep both “in stock” on my workbench. They are quite effective at gluing wood to wood joints and in some cases with mechanical assistance will glue metal to wood. An example of this would be gluing a nail or piece of wire into a drilled hole. Acetone will dissolve hardened adhesive.

 

[pugwash]

Thanks, Roger.

The Nitrocellulose adhesives are effectively banned in the UK (Global Warming, Nuclear Winter or kids sniffing the stuff etc).
Same for the paints.

 

[Roger Pellett]

My father and mother were married in 1932, the height of the depression. My father had just completed a degree in the new academic field of aeronautical engineering. The problem was that no one was hiring aeronautical engineers. To supplement the job that he did have they started the Viking Aircraft Co. to produce and sell model airplane kits designed by my father.

The kits were sold complete with glue, the Nitrocellulose type. It was easily homemade by dissolving celluloid plastic in acetone. The landlord that owned the house that they rented effectively closed the business because of the proximity of an open flame water to the volatile acetone!

Too bad that Brexit has not eased some of these restrictions.

Roger

 

[pugwash]

These celluloid products do degrade with time, are flamable and acetone is a proven carcinogen.
Just saying.....

 

[Bob sav]

Who doesn't remember the smell of Ambroid ? I must have built a two hundred balsa model's when I was a kid 70 some odd years ago.

 

[Jack Sparrow]

These celluloid products do degrade with time, are flamable and acetone is a proven carcinogen.
Just saying.....

that is the problem that I had. Acetone or nail polish remover and even alcohol fumes give me a headache if I am exposed to them for a long time.
So for me sanding was the best solution.

 

[Smithy]

I have an old tube of balsa cement. I will husband it carefully!

 

[pugwash]

Is that you 'coming out', Smithy?

Nothing to be ashamed of, we're all supportive sailors here.

 

[Rob444]

Thanks for your input, guys.

'Slicing and dicing' has been the only way I've found; I was hoping for a softer solution, in a chemical sort of way.

I'm going to be building one of those 'FALCONET' 1:72 miniature boat kits.
I don't want to be using cyano, which gives off fumes that I'm sensitive to.
My only alternatives seem to be PVA, UHU, shellac or possibly seccotine.
Wetting/soaking/heating aren't options.

You may want to try UV setting glue for some of your applications. I find it works very well for a lot of areas where I would use CA.

Rob

 

[maltbyguy]

As my name sake said I find that Isopropyl Alcohol softens PVA glue so you can disassemble parts I have just had to use it ro rebuild the stern on my Blandford
I also use interior PVA rather than the waterproof type

 

[Marquinius]

Thanks, Roger.

The Nitrocellulose adhesives are effectively banned in the UK (Global Warming, Nuclear Winter or kids sniffing the stuff etc).
Same for the paints.

Here in Holland - sorry, the Netherlands - there’s no risk of kids sniffing model glue. Don’t ask.

 

[Jack Sparrow]

Here in Holland - sorry, the Netherlands - there’s no risk of kids sniffing model glue. Don’t ask.

It happens everywhere. glue, gas, spray paint...

 

[pugwash]

Is this why the young no longer build models....no high anymore.

Maltby, you've surprised me, I wasn't aware of a choice of interior/exterior PVA.
Is there a difference in consistency and use?
Will my boat sink with one and not the other?

We're a strange lot here in South Yorkshire.