Copper Plating. Method for Patinating Copper Aging – I Need Your Help!

[serikoff]

I want to age the copper plating on my ship model, using the method from Dmitry Shevelev.
He used a copper-patinating solution called Patina-It. I once found it available in the U.S. at this link, but it’s no longer for sale. I’ve searched everywhere but haven’t been able to find it.
I’d greatly appreciate any help in locating this product—maybe someone in their own country has seen it, or can find it. I’d also be interested if there are any similar or alternative products available, as I’ve tried others but none achieved the same effect as Shevelev’s method, which I’ll describe below.

While I was writing this message, I found a single listing on this website, which wasn’t there until recently. The only concern is that, although the label and bottle look identical, the color of the liquid is drastically different… I’m tempted to take the risk and order it, but ideally, I’d like to find the exact same product that Shevelev used.

Here is a link where you can view a description of the patination process for copper sheathing using Dmitry Shevelev's method, within my main construction review thread.
Thank you for your assistance!

 

[Kurt Konrath]

If you do a google or other search of internet on adding patina to copper plates, it lists several methods and or chemicals to try.

One listed this home process, you may try on test samples off the ship first.

Mix the salt, vinegar and ammonia and apply, then rinse to stop process.

 

[serikoff]

If you do a google or other search of internet on adding patina to copper plates, it lists several methods and or chemicals to try.

One listed this home process, you may try on test samples off the ship first.

Mix the salt, vinegar and ammonia and apply, then rinse to stop process.

Thank you for your comment. I have already tried similar methods. I will talk about this later, but none of them suited me. Or rather, there is one better than all the others, but it is not the same as the desired remedy.

 

[serikoff]

Part 2

In this section, I am showing my experiments with patinating copper sheeting to achieve the effect of natural copper oxidation. By the way, Dmitry Shevelev, in my opinion, best conveyed this effect. I have only somewhat approximated it so far, but I am awaiting the product that the master uses in order to replicate his result. But that will be discussed later, for now, these are the intermediate results—perhaps they will work for someone. >>> Here is the link <<< to the full text in my main build thread.

 

[Oktay Yaylacıkoral]

BENCEKİ YÖNTEM BİLİYORUMM
1.....
parlatıcı ile işlemi Temiz işlemi gerçekleştirir, tamamen kurumasını bekleyin, tüm yüzeyin üzerine pamuklu bir bez geçin

Bakır değiştirme işlemi (verdigris), bunu kendiniz yapmak için karıştırmak.
hariç, ürün solunum yolları ve cilt için zararlı ve tehlikelidir. Açık havada veya iyi havalandırılan bir odayı karıştırır, eldiven, maske ve koruyucu gözlük takın:
Yeterince büyük bir kavanoza çıkışı istenen ürün miktarına (örn. küçük cam) karşılık gelen bir ölçüm haznesini kullanın. Önemli olan, kavanozun üzerinde “tehlikeli ürün, oksidasyon tedavisi…” bulunmaktadır. Ünlem
4 ölçü beyaz sirke
3 ölçü amonyak
1 ölçü sofra tuzu karıştırmanın ve birkaç dakika

pembe.
Bakıra büyük bir fırça ile değiştirir (her zaman açık havada veya havalandırılmış bir oda, koruma portu ile).
Tedavi sıvıdır, bu nedenle onu yere akacaktır! Zemin ve teknenin geri kalanını buna göre dağıtın.
Birkaç saat etki göstermesi için bırakın (havanın sıcaklığına ve nemine bağlıdır).
Bakır kurudukça yeşil döner. Yeşilin iyi bir kısmını çıkarmak için kuru bir pamuktan bezi geçirmek (yüzey oksidasyonu).
Bir kompresörle üfleyin ve bir sprey şişesi veya bir sprey tabancayla (özellikle bir fırça ile değil) renksiz bir mat vernik programı.
İyice kurumaya bırakın
Sonuç olarak sizin zevkinize göre olabilir (belirgin verdi), ancak yeşili tonlamak ve bakırı daha fazla "yaşlandırmak" için ek bir patina seçtim:
Bir karartıcı çelik macun kullanın (bir tür çekme demiri) veya silah karartıcı) ve yüzeyden hafifçe ve çalıştırılarak geçin.
İyice kurumaya bırakın ve bitirmek için temiz, yumuşak pamuklu bir bez
geçirmek.
2.....

100 GR ASETİKASİT
30 GR AMONYAK KARBONAT VEYA HİDROKLÖRÜR
10 GR SODYUM KLORÜR
10 GR KREM TARTAR
10 GR BAKIR ASETAD
Bir miktar su ekleyin ve karışımı iyice hazırlandığında bronzlaştırılacak nesnenin üzerine sürün ve 36 saat açık havada kurumaya bırakın. Bu sırada nesnenin tamamen yeşil gri olduğunu görüyoruz. Maviye dönüşümü yeşil kısımlarına amonyakla, maviye çevirmek dokunuşlara ise amonyak karbonatla hafifçe yapabiliyoruz. tartarat, Potasyum bitartrat, Potasyum hidrojen tartrat) pişirme ve bisküvi yazılımı yaygın olarak kullanılan ürün

 

[Oktay Yaylacıkoral]

Bakır Nasıl Eskitilir?: 8 Adım (Resimlerle) - wikiHow

Bakır, havadaki oksijenle tepkimeye girdiğinde bakır oksit (CuO) oluşur ve bakıra, bazılarının klasik görünümünden ötürü sevdiği yeşilimsi bir renk kazandırır. Bakır küfü ya da yeşil pas da denen bu katmanın bakırın üstünde doğal olarak...

www.wikihow.com.tr

 

[Dr Lou]

I used a thin wash of green black and white paint to dull the copper and give it some age and appearance of corrosion.

 

[maywiyj]

I have used the salt, water, and vinegar method as well to good success. I've never used ammonia in the solution.

I clean the plated Hull with fine sandpaper to a shine and then spray the solution on in a thin coat and let it dry. It gives a bit of patina and leaves a greenish whitish residue behind that I wipe off before further applications to deepen the patina.

When it gets to the color I like I spray a clear coat to lock in the look. Sometimes I leave some of the powder residue before the clear coat and it looks like a bit of corrosion.

I used to use Patina-it as well but couldn't find it anymore and this seemed to do just as well to my eye.

 

[maywiyj]

Adding photos to previous post. Sorry I don't have better pix of just the copper :-(

 

[tonyvou13]

I want to age the copper plating on my ship model, using the method from Dmitry Shevelev.
He used a copper-patinating solution called Patina-It. I once found it available in the U.S. at this link, but it’s no longer for sale. I’ve searched everywhere but haven’t been able to find it.
I’d greatly appreciate any help in locating this product—maybe someone in their own country has seen it, or can find it. I’d also be interested if there are any similar or alternative products available, as I’ve tried others but none achieved the same effect as Shevelev’s method, which I’ll describe below.

While I was writing this message, I found a single listing on this website, which wasn’t there until recently. The only concern is that, although the label and bottle look identical, the color of the liquid is drastically different… I’m tempted to take the risk and order it, but ideally, I’d like to find the exact same product that Shevelev used.

Here is a link where you can view a description of the patination process for copper sheathing using Dmitry Shevelev's method, within my main construction review thread.
Thank you for your assistance!

View attachment 482182

I used one part Miracle Grow to three parts water. I brushed it on the copper and 30 minutes later I had the patina I wanted. Easy and cheap.

 

[tonyvou13]

I want to age the copper plating on my ship model, using the method from Dmitry Shevelev.
He used a copper-patinating solution called Patina-It. I once found it available in the U.S. at this link, but it’s no longer for sale. I’ve searched everywhere but haven’t been able to find it.
I’d greatly appreciate any help in locating this product—maybe someone in their own country has seen it, or can find it. I’d also be interested if there are any similar or alternative products available, as I’ve tried others but none achieved the same effect as Shevelev’s method, which I’ll describe below.

While I was writing this message, I found a single listing on this website, which wasn’t there until recently. The only concern is that, although the label and bottle look identical, the color of the liquid is drastically different… I’m tempted to take the risk and order it, but ideally, I’d like to find the exact same product that Shevelev used.

Here is a link where you can view a description of the patination process for copper sheathing using Dmitry Shevelev's method, within my main construction review thread.
Thank you for your assistance!

View attachment 482182

 

[tonyvou13]

Here is a picture of my Flying Fish with the aged copper as per my method.

 

[BruceP]

Here is a picture of my Flying Fish with the aged copper as per my method.

View attachment 483170

I also used the salt, vinegar (white) and ammonia method but was instructed to use an industrial strength (10%) ammonia. Depending on the ratio of each ingredient, you can push the result to the blue or green and change the texture of the finish. The attached picture is the Constructo Enterprise that I have been working on for 30 years (the instructions were about a page and a half, with a page and a half parts list.) I recently applied and antiqued the copper plate. The overall model will have a distressed look when complete.

 

[JerryTodd]

This model's sailed in salt water several times. The copper is uncoated tape from an electrical supply applied as individual plates. The greens are oxidation from being in the air.

 

[glennb17]

I also like the look of an old penny. Liver of sulfur is really good for that, just play with exposure times off model first. You have to deal with some smell, but the copper effect looks like a classic high quality model someone has had for a while

 

[serikoff]

Bakır Nasıl Eskitilir?: 8 Adım (Resimlerle) - wikiHow

Bakır, havadaki oksijenle tepkimeye girdiğinde bakır oksit (CuO) oluşur ve bakıra, bazılarının klasik görünümünden ötürü sevdiği yeşilimsi bir renk kazandırır. Bakır küfü ya da yeşil pas da denen bu katmanın bakırın üstünde doğal olarak...

www.wikihow.com.tr

I used a thin wash of green black and white paint to dull the copper and give it some age and appearance of corrosion.

Я также использовал метод соли, воды и уксуса для хорошего успеха. Я никогда не использовал аммиак в растворе.

I clean the plated Hull with fine sandpaper to a shine and then spray the solution on in a thin coat and let it dry. It gives a bit of patina and leaves a greenish whitish residue behind that I wipe off before further applications to deepen the patina.

When it gets to the color I like I spray a clear coat to lock in the look. Sometimes I leave some of the powder residue before the clear coat and it looks like a bit of corrosion.

I used to use Patina-it as well but couldn't find it anymore and this seemed to do just as well to my eye.

I used one part Miracle Grow to three parts water. I brushed it on the copper and 30 minutes later I had the patina I wanted. Easy and cheap.

I also used the salt, vinegar (white) and ammonia method but was instructed to use an industrial strength (10%) ammonia. Depending on the ratio of each ingredient, you can push the result to the blue or green and change the texture of the finish. The attached picture is the Constructo Enterprise that I have been working on for 30 years (the instructions were about a page and a half, with a page and a half parts list.) I recently applied and antiqued the copper plate. The overall model will have a distressed look when complete.

View attachment 483174

This model's sailed in salt water several times. The copper is uncoated tape from an electrical supply applied as individual plates. The greens are oxidation from being in the air.

View attachment 483178View attachment 483179

I also like the look of an old penny. Liver of sulfur is really good for that, just play with exposure times off model first. You have to deal with some smell, but the copper effect looks like a classic high quality model someone has had for a while

Thank you all for your answers. I am just waiting for the Patin-It package. And judging by the fact that it has not been anywhere for many years, this is the only sealed bottle of this solution that the miniature artist has lying around. I am very curious whether the desired result will be achieved, but I really hope so. I think I will show my experiments in a week. If there is a failure, I will try your options, but I still really hope for Patin-It.

 

[Alan Story]

I have used the salt, water, and vinegar method as well to good success. I've never used ammonia in the solution.

I clean the plated Hull with fine sandpaper to a shine and then spray the solution on in a thin coat and let it dry. It gives a bit of patina and leaves a greenish whitish residue behind that I wipe off before further applications to deepen the patina.

When it gets to the color I like I spray a clear coat to lock in the look. Sometimes I leave some of the powder residue before the clear coat and it looks like a bit of corrosion.

I used to use Patina-it as well but couldn't find it anymore and this seemed to do just as well to my eye.

How much of each item to the mix?? Thanks

 

[perigono]

Hello friends. I make medium size sculptures. I have come up with my own methods and materials. One of the final processes of the sculpture making is the production of an imitation of the patina over the actual bronze statues. I am going to tell you what I use hoping it would be useful to you.
1. Put 1/2 teaspoon of copper sulfate crystals (CuSO4) into a little container. I use the little containers that come with sauces when one buys food to go.
2. Cover the crystals with boiling water, no more than that.
3. Wait until all or most of the crystals have dissolved in the water. You will have a saturated solution of CuSO4 with an intense pretty blue color.
4. This step is optional: add some drops of clear vinegar (acetic acid), preferably synthetic. From a chemical point of view the acidity would favor the oxidation reaction but I have found that I do not need it for my sculptures. Some acidity may be necessary with copper, though. You may test the process with a diluted solution of chloridric acid (ClH) to see if a stronger acid improves it. Be careful with this acid. I would recommend it only if you have experience and you know very well how to handle strong acids. Also, try to see what happens with no acid at all; only, water.
5. Apply the CuSO4 solution, small amounts at the time. Apply as many coats as necessary until reaching the desired effect. You may need only one, though.
6. Once the patina is dry you may apply a polymeric coating over it like varnish. I use Minwax Polycrylic (water based). The coat will protect the patina avoiding losing particles of oxide by friction and manipulation in general.

Hope this is useful or at least can guide you in the right direction.

 

[AllanKP69]

Here is another method I found using common household materials.
Soaking copper in white vinegar and salt will create a bluish green patina. Other ways of doing this are to bury the copper in sawdust or crushed potato chips soaked in white vinegar. The longer the copper is buried, the darker the patina becomes.
Allan

 

[paul ron]

imho... why accelerate the aging process? just dont clear coat the copper... if you leave it alone long enough, it will green all by itself... and look more natural besides.