Attaching Breech Ropes

[Paul D Hall]

I have never properly attached a breech rope to the ship's sides. I thought that I would attempt to do a proper seizing with my current model (HMS Ontario 1:48). This would involve a half-hitch to a ringbolt plus a seizing. I have seen single and multiple seizing in pictures and believe that this could be done only off the model and before the ring-bolts were affixed to the hull. I may have erred once again because all my ring bolts have already been attached! Any ideas how to complete the task with reasonable realism? The scale is such that it would seem impossible to do any seizing with the very tight quarters given. Gun tackles pose much less of a problem because they are usually attached to their ring-bolts with a hook.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

I have seen single and multiple seizing in pictures and believe that this could be done only off the model and before the ring-bolts were affixed to the hull.

That's EXACTLY how it's done, especially on small models. The holes in the bulwark are pre-drilled, and you apply glue to the eyebolts and insert them into the hles after the breechin ropes are tied to the eyebolts, and after the carriages are attached to the deck. Hope you have good angle tweezers and a magnifying headset...

 

[Paul D Hall]

That's EXACTLY how it's done, especially on small models. The holes in the bulwark are pre-drilled, and you apply glue to the eyebolts and insert them into the hles after the breechin ropes are tied to the eyebolts, and after the carriages are attached to the deck. Hope you have good angle tweezers and a magnifying headset...

My ring-bolts are already in. Initially I was not going to rig the cannons but, since only 4 are exposed on deck, I thought it might look nice to rig them. Problem is how to attach the line without pulling the bolts and starting over. I just might have to do that! Every model I make (now about 20) I try to be perfect, but mistakes always seem to creep in. Of course, the typical viewer never sees the problems.

I do use a set of surgeons magnifying glasses with a built-in light. Very useful, but my fingers remain big and clumsy. Thanks for the quick response.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

My ring-bolts are already in. Initially I was not going to rig the cannons but, since only 4 are exposed on deck, I thought it might look nice to rig them. Problem is how to attach the line without pulling the bolts and starting over. I just might have to do that! Every model I make (now about 20) I try to be perfect, but mistakes always seem to creep in. Of course, the typical viewer never sees the problems.

I do use a set of surgeons magnifying glasses with a built-in light. Very useful, but my fingers remain big and clumsy. Thanks for the quick response.

Only four guns? Not too bad. I rigged 80 so far and have 22 to go. It gets easier once you have a technique worked out.

 

[Smithy]

pulling the bolts and starting over

Long-nose pliers. Twist and pull. Like drawing teeth, it's a lot easier and less painful than you expect. Then your problem is pretty much solved.

EDIT; This has worked well for me but different glues and wood may lead to unfortunate results. Some more cautious methods are described below.

 

[AllanKP69]

I thought that I would attempt to do a proper seizing with my current model (HMS Ontario 1:48). This would involve a half-hitch to a ringbolt plus a seizing.

Hi Paul,
Which HMS Ontario, 1756, 1780, or 1813? The breechings likely were different on all three of these vessels. From The History of English Sea Ordnance by Adrian Caruana, volume 2, up to the 1750's the breeching was attached to the ring bolt (not an eye bolt) in the bulwark with a round turn and two half hitches. From the 1750's to about 1790 it was simplified to a round turn and one half hitch. In both cases the tail was seized to the standing part. About 1790 this changed again to include a thimble inserted in the ring and the breeching seized at the throat of the thimble and then knotted. In 1811 it changed again and is described in An Elementary Treatise on the Mounting of Naval Ordnance by William Congreve wherein the knot was replaced by a second seizing.
Allan

 

[Smithy]

Hi Paul,
Which HMS Ontario, 1756, 1780, or 1813? The breechings likely were different on all three of these vessels. From The History of English Sea Ordnance by Adrian Caruana, volume 2, up to the 1750's the breeching was attached to the ring bolt (not an eye bolt) in the bulwark with a round turn and two half hitches. From the 1750's to about 1790 it was simplified to a round turn and one half hitch. In both cases the tail was seized to the standing part. About 1790 this changed again to include a thimble inserted in the ring and the breeching seized at the throat and then knotted. In 1811 it changed again and is described in An Elementary Treatise on the Mounting of Naval Ordnance by William Congreve where in the knot was replaced by a second seizing.
Allan

Not only is that very useful information (as usual Allan ) but my understanding of nautical terms, knots, gunnery etc has now improved to the point that I understood every word. I think that calls for a celebration!

 

[Hoss6262]

I hope this is not too late. If you decide to pull your eye bolts with pliers, I suggest prepping them before doing so. Otherwise, you could pull some small wood splinters with the bolts, depending on the wood used, presenting you with another problem. If you used PVA glue, use 70% or higher isopropyl alcohol and if CA, debonder. Use as tiny a paintbrush as you can find to allow you to apply the solution precisely. Wait a minute and wiggle the thing out gently. This suggestion comes from my own experience. I'm hoping to spare you the same pain.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

I'm with Ken. Soak a cotton swab with alcohol or approriate debonding agent and apply it to the eyelet, wait a bit, keeping it wet, then attempt to extract it. The eyelet my be destroyed, so have spares handy. If the shank breaks off in the hull, use a micro drill to make a new hole alongside it. It;s careful work, but sometimes we paint ourselves into a corner and have to figure a way out.

 

[Namabiiru]

You may also find it useful to cut a slit in a piece of stiff cardstock or wood that you can slide over the deadeye and clamp to the bulwark. This will support the grain and help minimize splintering when you pull out the deadeye.

 

[Smithy]

small wood splinters

careful work

splintering

Twist and pull has worked ok for me but you guys are wise to suggest the cautious approach. Different glues, different wood may result in different results.