I hadn't really thought about it until this afternoon, when I was perusing the Forum and I noted a few different threads where the discussion oriented around aspects of models, their scale, how to convert, etc.. The thought then struck me, how important is scale when considering and selecting a new model? Is it important? Should it be important? Let me know, thanks!
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Scale is obviously a variable feature of a model. The same ship at 1:350 scale will be smaller and less detailed than at say 1:100 scale. The larger the scale the more detailed can be incorporated and appreciated on the model.
For scratch builders the scale is very important to assist in reading the plans and getting the correct measurements of the parts being created, and the scale needs to be consistently applied otherwise the parts will not fit and the model will not appear as a faithful replica.
For kits the scale is set, and parts are cut to scale or the parts that require fabrication are scaled appropriately in the plans of the kit.
Depending on the subject of the kit the scale tends to be semi-standardized. Most ships from 18th and 19th century Europe with masts are scaled around 1:90s - 1:48. Modern warships like USS Missouri will be 1:1000 - 1:350. The scale will obviously affect the actual size of the finished model which needs to be suitable for display in a space that allows. Many modelers build their model not having a location to allow display predefined, but it is prudent to consider the model’s final location to ensure the scale is suitable for the space selected and the display case.
Finally their are some scales that are more common such as 1:48 or 1:64 as they are a multiple of 12 and allow conversion of imperial measurements ( inches) readily to the scaled measurements and the relative measurements are more easily found.
Hope this helps.
For scratch builders the scale is very important to assist in reading the plans and getting the correct measurements of the parts being created, and the scale needs to be consistently applied otherwise the parts will not fit and the model will not appear as a faithful replica.
For kits the scale is set, and parts are cut to scale or the parts that require fabrication are scaled appropriately in the plans of the kit.
Depending on the subject of the kit the scale tends to be semi-standardized. Most ships from 18th and 19th century Europe with masts are scaled around 1:90s - 1:48. Modern warships like USS Missouri will be 1:1000 - 1:350. The scale will obviously affect the actual size of the finished model which needs to be suitable for display in a space that allows. Many modelers build their model not having a location to allow display predefined, but it is prudent to consider the model’s final location to ensure the scale is suitable for the space selected and the display case.
Finally their are some scales that are more common such as 1:48 or 1:64 as they are a multiple of 12 and allow conversion of imperial measurements ( inches) readily to the scaled measurements and the relative measurements are more easily found.
Hope this helps.
Another point with scale that @Chestcutter didn't mention is that it will be a lot easier to work rigging on a ship if it is in 1/48 rather than 1/100 because the blocks will be larger and the lines will be a thicker material. Rigging the 3 holes in a deadeye that is only 2 mm across is pretty tough. 
The bigger the kit scale you can afford, the better, IMHO. For the small vessels, I like 1:20 ~ 1:24, and for larger ships, 1:36 or 1:48 are my scales. You can show more details, while the eyes should work on those details without tiredness. 
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the larger the scale the more details can be added but there are a few considerations first is the size of the ship. Take the steamer Mississippi of 1841 at 1/4 inch = 1 foot scale the model would be 5 feet long and a foot wide, so you need space to display it. Then there is the cost of materials to build a plank on frame hull 5 feet long. the advantage to 1/4 scale is you can get some remarkably fine detail.
it is not always the case the bigger the scale the more detail you can achieve Harold Hahn and Lloyd McCaffery managed ultra fine detail at incredibly small scale.
www.jrusselljinishiangallery.com
it comes down to planning the project and matching the scale to the project. First is the display area, if your space it limited that will set the size of the model. If your idea of a model ship is to show how wooden ships are built and the different types of joinery used the minimum scale would be 1/4. Pick a small vessel such as a colonial schooner that is around 50 feet in length that is a model of 12 inches so you can up the scale from 1/4 to 3/8 and the model will still be a reasonable scale of around 18 inches. At 3/8 scale the spikes for the planking is actually in scale. The smaller the scale the more compromises you need to make. Let's take the spikes used for planking, the smallest scale in order for the spikes to be used in a model is 3/8 scale anything smaller either the spikes should not be used, or they are grossly out if scale.
Consider the viewing of the finished model small scale is harder to see like trying to read the tiny list of ingredients on food packaging. Larger scale draws you into the model by seeing smaller and smaller details.
tricking the eye is why out of scale will work when you view the entire diorama or model. This is why out of scale treenails/planking spikes work on a ship model. You do not calculate the size of the dot to the entire model ship. Just like the horse in the foreground if you put it against the building the horse would be 12 feet high but in the overall setting you don'r see it that way.
it is not always the case the bigger the scale the more detail you can achieve Harold Hahn and Lloyd McCaffery managed ultra fine detail at incredibly small scale.
The Making of the Ultimate Model: HMY ROYAL CAROLINE — J. Russell Jinishian Gallery
www.jrusselljinishiangallery.com
it comes down to planning the project and matching the scale to the project. First is the display area, if your space it limited that will set the size of the model. If your idea of a model ship is to show how wooden ships are built and the different types of joinery used the minimum scale would be 1/4. Pick a small vessel such as a colonial schooner that is around 50 feet in length that is a model of 12 inches so you can up the scale from 1/4 to 3/8 and the model will still be a reasonable scale of around 18 inches. At 3/8 scale the spikes for the planking is actually in scale. The smaller the scale the more compromises you need to make. Let's take the spikes used for planking, the smallest scale in order for the spikes to be used in a model is 3/8 scale anything smaller either the spikes should not be used, or they are grossly out if scale.
Consider the viewing of the finished model small scale is harder to see like trying to read the tiny list of ingredients on food packaging. Larger scale draws you into the model by seeing smaller and smaller details.
tricking the eye is why out of scale will work when you view the entire diorama or model. This is why out of scale treenails/planking spikes work on a ship model. You do not calculate the size of the dot to the entire model ship. Just like the horse in the foreground if you put it against the building the horse would be 12 feet high but in the overall setting you don'r see it that way.
I respectfully disagree. Look at belaying pins and gratings on many kit models as just two examples of out of scale parts.
I love Dave's post as he is very clear as to the repercussions in choosing a scale and ship. Consider how much room you have, both in the work area and display area. And when you add the display case more room needs to be considered.
Allan
That's a fascinating diorama, any more info on it ?the larger the scale the more details can be added but there are a few considerations first is the size of the ship. Take the steamer Mississippi of 1841 at 1/4 inch = 1 foot scale the model would be 5 feet long and a foot wide, so you need space to display it. Then there is the cost of materials to build a plank on frame hull 5 feet long. the advantage to 1/4 scale is you can get some remarkably fine detail.
it is not always the case the bigger the scale the more detail you can achieve Harold Hahn and Lloyd McCaffery managed ultra fine detail at incredibly small scale.
The Making of the Ultimate Model: HMY ROYAL CAROLINE — J. Russell Jinishian Gallery
it comes down to planning the project and matching the scale to the project. First is the display area, if your space it limited that will set the size of the model. If your idea of a model ship is to show how wooden ships are built and the different types of joinery used the minimum scale would be 1/4. Pick a small vessel such as a colonial schooner that is around 50 feet in length that is a model of 12 inches so you can up the scale from 1/4 to 3/8 and the model will still be a reasonable scale of around 18 inches. At 3/8 scale the spikes for the planking is actually in scale. The smaller the scale the more compromises you need to make. Let's take the spikes used for planking, the smallest scale in order for the spikes to be used in a model is 3/8 scale anything smaller either the spikes should not be used, or they are grossly out if scale.
Consider the viewing of the finished model small scale is harder to see like trying to read the tiny list of ingredients on food packaging. Larger scale draws you into the model by seeing smaller and smaller details.
tricking the eye is why out of scale will work when you view the entire diorama or model. This is why out of scale treenails/planking spikes work on a ship model. You do not calculate the size of the dot to the entire model ship. Just like the horse in the foreground if you put it against the building the horse would be 12 feet high but in the overall setting you don'r see it that way.
View attachment 494603
smaller scales are fine if you have the eyesight and dexterity to match.
the larger the scale the more details can be added but there are a few considerations first is the size of the ship. Take the steamer Mississippi of 1841 at 1/4 inch = 1 foot scale the model would be 5 feet long and a foot wide, so you need space to display it. Then there is the cost of materials to build a plank on frame hull 5 feet long. the advantage to 1/4 scale is you can get some remarkably fine detail.
it is not always the case the bigger the scale the more detail you can achieve Harold Hahn and Lloyd McCaffery managed ultra fine detail at incredibly small scale.
The Making of the Ultimate Model: HMY ROYAL CAROLINE — J. Russell Jinishian Gallery
it comes down to planning the project and matching the scale to the project. First is the display area, if your space it limited that will set the size of the model. If your idea of a model ship is to show how wooden ships are built and the different types of joinery used the minimum scale would be 1/4. Pick a small vessel such as a colonial schooner that is around 50 feet in length that is a model of 12 inches so you can up the scale from 1/4 to 3/8 and the model will still be a reasonable scale of around 18 inches. At 3/8 scale the spikes for the planking is actually in scale. The smaller the scale the more compromises you need to make. Let's take the spikes used for planking, the smallest scale in order for the spikes to be used in a model is 3/8 scale anything smaller either the spikes should not be used, or they are grossly out if scale.
Consider the viewing of the finished model small scale is harder to see like trying to read the tiny list of ingredients on food packaging. Larger scale draws you into the model by seeing smaller and smaller details.
tricking the eye is why out of scale will work when you view the entire diorama or model. This is why out of scale treenails/planking spikes work on a ship model. You do not calculate the size of the dot to the entire model ship. Just like the horse in the foreground if you put it against the building the horse would be 12 feet high but in the overall setting you don'r see it that way.
View attachment 494603
In reviewing the pictures of the HMS Royal Caroline, I am stunned by the precision and detail of the carvings that adorn the sides of the ship....especially to learn that McCaffery made them. I wish to know how long it took him to build this ship?
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For a beginner I would suggest that 1:64 is better for a sailing ship. The rigging is fiddly enough at that scale. The 1:85 Golden Hind I’m currently working on is a trial for my 72 year old eyes and fingers!
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Good question to ask. I've been modelling now for over thirty years and in that time have covered quite a few scales. My favourite is 1/24 and the most common I work with is 1/64 (period ships) but in card/paper I prefer 1/100. Why, well there are a lot of paper models at 1/100 and they are reasonably large enough to see detail without requiring massive storage boxes and covers. Period ships with all their rigging collect dust and spider's web at an alarming rate. Also storage of these ships is a problem, not only in length but in height as well. Mine all exist in bespoke wooden boxes which also enable transportation.
The 1/24 scale models are working radio control models, landing craft, yachts and thames sailing barges. Due to their larger dimensions they have been made to be easily broken-down to transport them in suitable containers.
I have embarked on one project inspired by a club colleague who made a rowing boat operated and "rowed" by an Action man character which are 1/6 scale. My project is a Venetian gondola to be operated by said Action man, so at 1/6 scale the gondola is near 7 foot in length.
So yes, scale is very important when choosing the next build, one just has to remember to allow for the final size that endearing kit/project will actually end up and where will it reside once completed.
Aye, Kim
The 1/24 scale models are working radio control models, landing craft, yachts and thames sailing barges. Due to their larger dimensions they have been made to be easily broken-down to transport them in suitable containers.
I have embarked on one project inspired by a club colleague who made a rowing boat operated and "rowed" by an Action man character which are 1/6 scale. My project is a Venetian gondola to be operated by said Action man, so at 1/6 scale the gondola is near 7 foot in length.
So yes, scale is very important when choosing the next build, one just has to remember to allow for the final size that endearing kit/project will actually end up and where will it reside once completed.
Aye, Kim
After you have built several models and are running out of space to display them, then scale becomes a critical issue, especially if it involves keeping a wife happy. As a long time scratch builder, I have a degree more of flexibility than a kit builder in choosing the length of the model I want to build. My method these days is to decide what I want to build, set the overall length at about 18 inches, and then set the scale accordingly. The plans are then copied to the appropriate scale.
I like to keep the same scale so I can compare the size of different ships. Steel navy (pre WWI to WWII 1/350), sailing vessels 1/60 to 1/64, figures 90mm and 1/12.
I have the problem of running out of space but like building to a large (50/1) scale so I thought I'd build the small cutter Alert. I finished the hull then went to build the bowsprit and found it is nearly as long as the ship. The Admiral will not be pleased.
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An important factor for me is display size and space. I build my own cases and width not length is more of a consideration. Some builds like my Model Shipways Eagle and Kate Cory require a wide base due to the size of masts and rigging. The base of the finished display case is approximately 12.5" wide. Consequently, the case is wider than most standard bookcases. I've had to build my own bookcases with a wide top to accommodate the display case.
Generally, the smaller the scale, the smaller the case.
Generally, the smaller the scale, the smaller the case.
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The choice of scale is generally driven by a triad of factors called, eyesight, bankruptcy, divorce. The appropriate choice of scale for a ship model is one that can successfully be steered into harbour without colliding with one or more of these hazards.
Speaking of scale. A chart I find useful:
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Thanks Phil for the charts! Magic Mike