How important is scale in selecting a new model?

[Roger Pellett]

My viewpoint is that of a scratch model making all parts myself except cordage and chain. In some cases, I include one or more figures on the nameplate and I buy metal kits for these to be assembled and painted. My projects typically require several years to complete and before beginning one, I consider a number of factors:

Overall artistic objective; model type-exposed framing, fully rigged, etc, Finish-usually painted, Display- plinth finish, supports, etc. It is important that these things complement one another.

Research; Can I find reliable information to build an historically correct model? I do not like or use “model makers” plans as I have no way of
judging their accuracy.

Personal: Does the subject interest me enough to allow me to complete the model? Artistic vs Engineering- I have no artistic ability but am able to “engineer” the models by making jigs, fixtures etc. Finances- usually not a factor for scratch building.

Workshop- I am blessed with a spacious, well equipped shop so not a factor.

Scale- I choose the largest scale that will allow the model to be displayed in my home or in the case of my present project in a known public space. This size must include a glass display case. I also avoid projects where the scale would be too small to allow me to achieve my artistic objectives.

So. Scale is only one of many factors to be considered and there is no single best scale. It depends on the project.

Roger

 

[Bob Cleek]

I respectfully disagree. Look at belaying pins and gratings on many kit models as just two examples of out of scale parts.

I love Dave's post as he is very clear as to the repercussions in choosing a scale and ship. Consider how much room you have, both in the work area and display area. And when you add the display case more room needs to be considered.

Allan

Ditto to Allan's comments, especially with respect to the size of the display case. Importantly, if you are going to build a case that will be lifted up off of the model, you will also have to consider the space necessary to do that and the weight of the glass case. I presently have a high-quality Admiralty Board model replica in my shop that requires some minor restoration. It is mounted on a separate board that fits into a recess on a custom designed table. The matching wood framed glass box case is placed over the model. The table is about three feet high, and the glass case is about three feet high, for a total of six feet tall by five feet wide by two and a half feet deep. It takes a minimum of four strong people to carefully lift the case straight up off the model with the utmost care to avoid damaging the model. This cannot be done in a room with an eight-foot ceiling. Instead, the case base, model, and case together must be lifted out of the tabletop recess and placed on the floor, and then the case has to be lifted carefully off the model to access it. The whole process has to be reversed to set up the cased model again. From any sane interior decorator's perspective, this cased model is too large to fit in any average sized home unless one were to ignore conventions and let it overwhelm an entire room. Additionally, it would have been so much better if the case had provided for opening sides or some other device which permitted removing the model from the case other than by lifting the case over the model.