Air Brush Equipment

Ironically, I just replied regarding airbrush use in a previous thread, just my thoughts, many will disagree I'm sure. I've worked in airbrush art over 5 decades, and see no use for one with wood ship modeling. Why got through the expense, the learning curve, the running of a compressor, getting the airflow just right, getiing the paint to the right consistancy, the masking & overspray, the thorough cleaning required after use, when I can use an old fashioned quality paint brush for equal, much quicker results, and less mess? To each is own, just my thoughts for beginners.
 
I’m thankful for this post. Years ago I had a very simple set up - an air brush connected by a 3 foot hose the an old diver’s air tank and that worked great! Then it got lost as I moved around a lot.

Now I have two air brushes and they worked fine when I first started using them but after I took them apart to clean them the blow the opposite direction and paint spews out of the paint container. I’ve watched videos to see what I may have done wrong and correct but the problem persists.

Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated

Thanks
 
the biggest difference in compressors is how much noise they make. as for psi and cfm, you dont need much for an airbrush.

i had one of those harbor freight 2gal for $60 on sale. its just loud till its fully preasurized. i kept the compressor in the garage and ran the hose through the wall into my shop. can brush for about 10 minutes before it has to cycle again.

my more expensive one sounds like a refrigerator cycling and is a whisper in comparrison... but that cost me $600.

but both work exactly the same.

badgers are great... cheap and easy to clean. a single action is all you really need, works like a spray paint can. double action has more control over how much paint vs amount of air flow so you can do fades n graduated tints. an important note... take good care of your needles so they dont get bent tips. if the tip is not aligned in the nozzel... it sputters n paint isnt evenly aerosoled.

it takes some practice to get use to.

craig... you airway may be blocked.
 
Craig C said:
I’m thankful for this post. Years ago I had a very simple set up - an air brush connected by a 3 foot hose the an old diver’s air tank and that worked great! Then it got lost as I moved around a lot.

Now I have two air brushes and they worked fine when I first started using them but after I took them apart to clean them the blow the opposite direction and paint spews out of the paint container. I’ve watched videos to see what I may have done wrong and correct but the problem persists.

Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated

Thanks
Click to expand...
Try cleaning again, the airflow is blocked by something inside.
 
ENJAY49 said:
Ironically, I just replied regarding airbrush use in a previous thread, just my thoughts, many will disagree I'm sure. I've worked in airbrush art over 5 decades, and see no use for one with wood ship modeling. Why got through the expense, the learning curve, the running of a compressor, getting the airflow just right, getiing the paint to the right consistancy, the masking & overspray, the thorough cleaning required after use, when I can use an old fashioned quality paint brush for equal, much quicker results, and less mess? To each is own, just my thoughts for beginners.
Click to expand...

I agree if we're talking about a wooden ship.

In my view, an air brush would be a wasted expense. Many of us want to see the natural wood as much as possible and only a limited amount of color.

If, on the other hand, we're talking about a ship that requires a lot of color - war-time camouflage, as one example or a plastic kit - then an air brush will help you with the best possible finish for a paint job.
 
DerekC62 said:
I agree if we're talking about a wooden ship.

In my view, an air brush would be a wasted expense. Many of us want to see the natural wood as much as possible and only a limited amount of color.

If, on the other hand, we're talking about a ship that requires a lot of color - war-time camouflage, as one example or a plastic kit - then an air brush will help you with the best possible finish for a paint job.
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Agreed, as in my other post, where I pointed out when an airbrush is essential, from model car painting to touch up of a real one, (I've done both), especially when gloss is required.
 
Love my Grex compressor, quiet and very dependable, small footprint, no vibration and plenty powerful enough for all my needs. No issues with my Grex brush either, you can buy both as a combo package, or at least you could when I got mine. I"m tempted to buy the trigger model brush just to see if I control it better, but again, no real issues with what I have!
 
www.paascheairbrush.com

Paasche Airbrush Company​

The Paashe Airbrush company has a section on website listed clearance, you can purchase blemished items at a reduced price. Currently on the website they have listed an air compressor with tank for $89 and numerous air brushes at reduced prices. Paashe has been around forever and work great. 1739659042069.png
 
Hey Spars, Uncklpine here from the Great White North. If you don't mind a wee bit o "Canadian Lingo", all the above advise is good stuff. I've been
an avid "airhead" since 1968, and turning 73 this Feb, and at the moment I have 10 airbrushes in my hobby room. I've been teaching airbrush tactics for more than 20 years now, and I have seen it all. The main advise I could give...practice, practice, practice...and like one gent mentioned, don't waste paint,
use either water or ink. Easier to clean, and helps develop "muscle memory". STAY AWAY from bargain basement guns and 'pressors....they will
bite you in the arse after failing, and good luck finding spare parts. Up here we have come across a relatively new player in the game...Gaahleri...
with a wonderful line of regular and "pistol grip" models with prices that put the big names to shame. I have tested them exhaustively and they WORK...!
Not sure if they have a US seller, but worth checking into. I have Paasche, Badger, Aztec, Grex, Harder Steenback, Sotar & Colani, and ALL work great.
I have this many 'cause I'm a tool freak, and I just like airbrushes. Plus, it comes in handy at the classes I run to help people sort out issues. One thing
I can also add, is take a trip over to Model Paint Solutions site by John Miller. Its a treasure trove of tips, tricks, and techniques for all things related
mixing paints, thinner types, cleaning and so forth.

Cheers,
 
Good information here. Thanks everybody! Next conversation should be about indoor ventilated paint booths suitable for the airbrushes.
 
I bought a CO2 tank in 1967 and attached a pressure gauge/controller. Whenever my tank was nearly empty, the local compressed gases dealer simply swapped out the tank for a filled one. Nothing could be as reliable and quiet.
 
MisterCA said:
Good information here. Thanks everybody! Next conversation should be about indoor ventilated paint booths suitable for the airbrushes.
Click to expand...
I don't know about others' experiences, but I've never found a need for a ventilated spray booth for an airbrush. The airbrush sprays such a small amount of paint in such a controlled spray configuration that overspray is very minimal. Now, I wouldn't suggest airbrushing without a sheet of something on top of the missus' dining room table, but on a workbench in the shop, I've never had a problem. In some instances, like when spraying small parts laying on the bench, I'll lay a paper towel down to catch the overspray. That's all I've ever needed. An airbrush is nothing like one of those damn rattle cans.
 
DerekC62 said:
I would recommend Badger airbrushes and compressors for you. Compared to other manufacturers Badger equipment is relatively inexpensive and the company has an excellent reputation for customer service. They have an extensive line of air bushes for all skill levels.

I think all their air brushes are dual-action (press down for air, pull back for paint flow).

If/when you do commit to buying just remember to practice on scrap material. When I started air brushing I had a hard time controlling the paint flow.

Also, crucially, the paint has to be properly thinned to the consistency of skim milk.
Click to expand...
I've bookmarked their website for now.
 
I bought my first dual-action airbrush four years ago and once I learned the basics of using and cleaning it, I've had great results. Something I haven't seen recommended here is a moisture filter; consider one when selecting an air compressor.

I wanted a capable airbrush I could grow into and bought an Iwata Eclipse with an Iwata air compressor. Very quiet and easy to work with. Highly recommended!


CC
 
X Bubble Head said:
I bought my first dual-action airbrush four years ago and once I learned the basics of using and cleaning it, I've had great results. Something I haven't seen recommended here is a moisture filter; consider one when selecting an air compressor.

I wanted a capable airbrush I could grow into and bought an Iwata Eclipse with an Iwata air compressor. Very quiet and easy to work with. Highly recommended!


CC
Click to expand...
One came with my Ecclipse. I've never had to drain it.20240427_081650_resized.jpg
 
rtibbs said:
Everyone has an opinion, this is mine. As Jeff said I assume you are painting models not automobiles.
Over the years I have tried several different airbrush's and settled on the following:

Grex Tritium Model TG3. Pistol style, double action top feed. Many needle sizes are available depending on what you are painting.
For me I find the pistol grip much easier to control than the top button type. But that's just me. :oops:

View attachment 500746
Click to expand...
I have this same airbrush. Well almost. I have the TS3. Side feed rather than top feed. Same principle, except the side feed allows the paint chamber to be rotated so the brush can be pointed a different angles without worrying about spilling paint.

I have a couple with the button on the top but much prefer the trigger. It's just what feels most comfortable for you.
 
uncklepine said:
Hey Spars, Uncklpine here from the Great White North. If you don't mind a wee bit o "Canadian Lingo", all the above advise is good stuff. I've been
an avid "airhead" since 1968, and turning 73 this Feb, and at the moment I have 10 airbrushes in my hobby room. I've been teaching airbrush tactics for more than 20 years now, and I have seen it all. The main advise I could give...practice, practice, practice...and like one gent mentioned, don't waste paint,
use either water or ink. Easier to clean, and helps develop "muscle memory". STAY AWAY from bargain basement guns and 'pressors....they will
bite you in the arse after failing, and good luck finding spare parts. Up here we have come across a relatively new player in the game...Gaahleri...
with a wonderful line of regular and "pistol grip" models with prices that put the big names to shame. I have tested them exhaustively and they WORK...!
Not sure if they have a US seller, but worth checking into. I have Paasche, Badger, Aztec, Grex, Harder Steenback, Sotar & Colani, and ALL work great.
I have this many 'cause I'm a tool freak, and I just like airbrushes. Plus, it comes in handy at the classes I run to help people sort out issues. One thing
I can also add, is take a trip over to Model Paint Solutions site by John Miller. Its a treasure trove of tips, tricks, and techniques for all things related
mixing paints, thinner types, cleaning and so forth.

Cheers,
Click to expand...
I just relocated south from Minnesota. New hoiuse and new room to convert. At 74 time to learn airbrush. I have plastic moxel kits to learn on.
 
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