Photo Etched parts

[Pwh]

Currently working on HMS Peregrine (Sergal). One of the parts is a brass plate with various patterns (see photo). I've never worked with type of part.
The instructions are as follows:
Preparing the Photo-etched Brass Parts. Lay the photo-etched plate on a flat work surface, and paint
the framework with dark blue matt acrylic paint. Paint the window glass areas with light-grey acrylic paint to simulate reflected sky. When the paint is
dry, lightly sand the surface with fine (600-grain) paper until the raised details of the plate become paint-free and polished, the paint remaining in the
incised portions. Cut out the pieces with tin shears or strong scissors (noting that the windows are not cut out individually) and finish the edges carefully
with a file. Varnish the brass to keep it shiny.

I have couple of questions
.1. How do I cut out the parts cleanly? The instructions suggest tin shears but there is some intricate cutting involved. Are there better tools to use ?
2. Is there any prep work required before painting the plate?

 

[Corsair]

Make sure you clean it well before you paint it !
There are many tools you can use to cut it. You can even use an Xacto knife. It will just require a few passes if it's not too thick.
There are also specialized "shears" for photo-etch parts.
You can even use regular scissors in many cases.
Just do a search online, like on Amazon.

 

[MThomas]

#1)... Use a new, sharp hobby knife and a hard surface to do your cutting upon. "Don't use shears!" Shears and/or scissors will likely just make a mess of the cut edges unless you know for fact that your shears are razor sharp and tight as a sailor's knot!

#2)... Prior to painting, wipe the parts with 70% isopropyl alcohol and "Do not touch the parts" after that... not with your bare hands, anyway.

 

[bluenos2]

I lay my sheets on a flat surface. Tape them down so it can't move. Use very fine grit sandpaper and do a few swipes over to just scuff up the surface. Flip and do the same. I use Alclad sprayed with an airbrush to prime. Once again just a few fine coats. As to painting, if many of the parts on the fret are the same colour I'll spray them first, or mask areas off and spray other colours. Others I will attach and then hand paint later. As to removing parts I use an Exacto curved blade on a cutting mat. Just put the blade as close to the part as possible and rock the blade back and forth. Put your finger on the part as it may jump and disappear never to be found again. After that I will use my photo etch shears to clean up the part. A little practice and you'll get the hang of it.

 

[Kurt Konrath]

I have been told to use a hard surface like glass to support when cutting. A soft cutting mat will flex under the place being cut and not give you a clean cut as when on hard surface.

 

[ConsNZ]

I use a thick piece of black glass (a ceramic tile canbe used) as a base for cutting on using a Swann Morton scalpel with a #15 blade. Any nibs are delt with using the wife's discarded diamond fingernail file.

 

[AllanKP69]

Swann Morton scalpel

Best blades ever. Xacto was the only thing I used until I discovered Swann Morton blades and FLAT blade holders. Never had one roll off the bench and stick in my leg or foot with SM. Can't say that was the case with the round Xacto blade holders. HDPE cutting boards work really well for a cutting surface which is the same material used in home and commercial kitchen cutting boards.
Allan

 

[Short John Bronze]

I use a narrow chisel, hammer and hard surface (wood) to cut the sprues. on photo etched sheets

 

[bluenos2]

I have been told to use a hard surface like glass to support when cutting. A soft cutting mat will flex under the place being cut and not give you a clean cut as when on hard surface.

Just to be clear my cutting mat is very rigid and I can remove pieces from the fret with my curved Exacto blade with ease. Just rock it back and forth. True a soft one is not recommended. I also use a piece of 1/8" masonite I bought from Home Depot. This works very well and doesn't dull my Exacto blade like glass or ceramic tile can. I also use a small pair of scissors from Heinkels to trim any remaining tabs. They work so well that I didn't have to sand many edges prior to paint.

 

[ConsNZ]

I use a thick piece of black glass (a ceramic tile can be used) as a base for cutting on using a Swann Morton scalpel with a #15 blade. Any nibs are delt with using the wife's discarded diamond fingernail file.

Eg

 

[RogerD]

I use old CD’s for the “hard surface” for cutting PE parts. They turn into portable little cutting mats. The coloured label side helps with lining up for the cut and the reflective bare side seems to help increase visibility of parts. (My wife is still looking for her Johnny Mathis CD )

 

[Gremlin]

Hi, I use either a scalpel or a pair of very small nail clippers to cut etched brass parts. And sand the remaining stubs with an emery board or jewelry file. Holding the brass in a pair of long nosed pliers with the jaws gaffa-taped.