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To the Beginners of the Art of Ship Modeling

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To the Beginners of the Art of Ship Modeling


After watching forums, modeling groups, and reading countless messages that reach me, I’ve had some reflections. I’ll admit – I used to think the same way many beginners do today. But over time, with experience and more models behind me, my perspective has changed.


Many people who start their adventure with ship modeling face the same initial problem: lack of tools and a proper workshop. This topic comes up again and again, yet it’s still hard to find simple, clear, and practical advice for newcomers. Especially advice that helps you get started without overspending or feeling overwhelmed.


Speaking from experience – as someone who once started from scratch – here are a few thoughts that might help:




1. The most important tool? Patience.


Before you buy your first modeling knife or think about drills and saws, stop for a second.


The most important thing you need is the will to build. And the understanding that some models will take months or even years to complete.


This isn’t a race – it’s a journey. And patience is your most powerful tool. Without it, no glue or machine will help.




2. Workshop – don’t buy everything at once


You don’t need a fully equipped bench on day one. To start, all you really need is:


– good lighting and a small workspace (a kitchen table will do),
– a modeling knife (X-Acto or scalpel),
– a small saw for wood,
– sandpaper and files,
– tweezers, a ruler, square, and a few clamps.


That’s enough to begin. Tools can be added as you go, when you actually need them.




3. Glue – the invisible hero


It might seem like a small thing, but glue plays a huge role in how your build turns out.


Best glue to start with? White wood glue (PVA):


✅ safe, non-toxic, and easy to clean up,
✅ gives you time to adjust parts before it sets,
✅ creates a strong, flexible bond when dry.


Yes, it dries slowly and isn’t waterproof. But still – it’s perfect for wooden ship modeling, especially for beginners.


Later, you’ll also try:


CA glue (cyanoacrylate) – fast and strong, but tricky to control,
Epoxy – very durable and waterproof, great for structural or floating models.


But trust me: start with PVA – it teaches precision and patience better than anything else.




4. Knowledge and observation


Tools are one thing, but just as important is the tool in your head – the ability to observe and learn.


Don’t be afraid to ask questions. Watch how others work. Compare techniques, styles, and solutions. In ship modeling, there’s rarely just one “right” way.


Find good books, follow online groups, browse forums, watch experienced modelers. The more you observe, the more confident and skilled you’ll become.




5. Mistakes? Of course they’ll happen.


Every modeler makes mistakes – even the best. Sometimes you’ll need to redo things, take them apart, start again. That’s not failure – that’s learning.


Over time, you’ll understand that redoing a piece properly is better than trying to fix a mistake poorly.


Mistakes are part of the craft. And fixing them is part of the art.




6. And above all – passion


If you feel joy after spending a few hours and seeing just one part completed – a deck, a railing, a small detail – then you’re in the right place.


Ship modeling is more than a hobby – it’s history, craftsmanship, and calmness in one.


Don’t be discouraged by those showing off expensive tools or perfect workbenches.
Your most important tools are already with you: willpower, patience, and focus.


The rest will come with time.




See you along the way – where wood turns into sails, railings, and hulls.
Where a model is more than just an object – it’s a proof of passion, dedication, and craft.


Fair winds and calm seas!

"These are just my thoughts and experiences — I understand that others may see things differently."

Roman-ov
 
Sound advice, indeed!

I see you're in Poland. I recently heard a quick explanation of the way competitive ship modeling is done is Europe and was fascinated. As I understand it, the competitions are international, and many nations support their ship modelers and follow ship modeling like it was a sporting event. As the story goes, in order to participate in the competitions, modelers must apprentice themselves to a "modeling coach" who is already qualified to compete, and apprentices are permitted to compete only after reaching a qualifying level of competence certified by their coach. That sounds to me like an excellent way to teach the craft to others. If the quality of modeling we see online is any indication, you guys over there are really doing things correctly.

I understand there is an international ship modeling commission, just like with sports, and competitors must be from nations which belong to the overall organization. Here in North America, we have nothing close to the level of organized competition and training you apparently do in Europe.

Given the amount of modeling wisdom you've posted just now, if you are familiar with the modeling system that I've described, might you share your thoughts about it with us? Even a link to some information online would most interesting. Thanks!
 
Sound advice, indeed!

I see you're in Poland. I recently heard a quick explanation of the way competitive ship modeling is done is Europe and was fascinated. As I understand it, the competitions are international, and many nations support their ship modelers and follow ship modeling like it was a sporting event. As the story goes, in order to participate in the competitions, modelers must apprentice themselves to a "modeling coach" who is already qualified to compete, and apprentices are permitted to compete only after reaching a qualifying level of competence certified by their coach. That sounds to me like an excellent way to teach the craft to others. If the quality of modeling we see online is any indication, you guys over there are really doing things correctly.

I understand there is an international ship modeling commission, just like with sports, and competitors must be from nations which belong to the overall organization. Here in North America, we have nothing close to the level of organized competition and training you apparently do in Europe.

Given the amount of modeling wisdom you've posted just now, if you are familiar with the modeling system that I've described, might you share your thoughts about it with us? Even a link to some information online would most interesting. Thanks!
You're absolutely right — the organization you're referring to is NAVIGA, the International Organization for Model Shipbuilding and Model Sport. In Europe (and beyond), it's a well-developed system that treats model shipbuilding almost like a sport, complete with national teams, certified judges, coaches, and world and continental championships.


Competitions under NAVIGA are governed by very detailed regulations, and models are judged based on historical documentation, craftsmanship, and technical accuracy.


What you mentioned about the mentor-apprentice relationship is spot on. Beginners typically join local clubs where experienced modelers take them under their wing. To compete internationally, you have to earn qualification at the national level, so there's a strong emphasis on training, quality, and consistency.


In Poland, for example, the main NAVIGA representative is the Liga Obrony Kraju (LOK), which coordinates clubs, hosts national championships, and selects competitors for international events.


It's truly an inspiring system — it not only helps modelers improve their skills, but also fosters a sense of community and shared tradition across borders.


If you're interested in learning more, check out www.naviga.org or look up national modeling federations or local clubs affiliated with NAVIGA — many of them have websites or Facebook groups.


Wishing you all the best with your modeling projects!


Roman

The photos are from the 2025 NAVIGA Polish Championships in Class C.

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510933269_9838285859624345_1161783483389546688_n.jpg

511640829_9838285849624346_1051051449090939076_n.jpg

511864639_9838285892957675_3105204877777368386_n.jpg

512641244_9838285596291038_8246306048293549105_n.jpg

513081538_9838285996290998_2332033655679331967_n.jpg
 
You're absolutely right — the organization you're referring to is NAVIGA, the International Organization for Model Shipbuilding and Model Sport. In Europe (and beyond), it's a well-developed system that treats model shipbuilding almost like a sport, complete with national teams, certified judges, coaches, and world and continental championships.


Competitions under NAVIGA are governed by very detailed regulations, and models are judged based on historical documentation, craftsmanship, and technical accuracy.


What you mentioned about the mentor-apprentice relationship is spot on. Beginners typically join local clubs where experienced modelers take them under their wing. To compete internationally, you have to earn qualification at the national level, so there's a strong emphasis on training, quality, and consistency.


In Poland, for example, the main NAVIGA representative is the Liga Obrony Kraju (LOK), which coordinates clubs, hosts national championships, and selects competitors for international events.


It's truly an inspiring system — it not only helps modelers improve their skills, but also fosters a sense of community and shared tradition across borders.


If you're interested in learning more, check out www.naviga.org or look up national modeling federations or local clubs affiliated with NAVIGA — many of them have websites or Facebook groups.


Wishing you all the best with your modeling projects!


Roman

The photos are from the 2025 NAVIGA Polish Championships in Class C.

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Hello , in Italy there is the Italian NAVIMODEL Federation affiliated with Naviga.Frank
 
Thanks so much for the information on NAVIGA. I'll definitely check it out. I hope others on this forum do the same. Hopefuly, we can have a discussion about it. We really don't have anything similar here in the United States, or in North America even.
 

To the Beginners of the Art of Ship Modeling


After watching forums, modeling groups, and reading countless messages that reach me, I’ve had some reflections. I’ll admit – I used to think the same way many beginners do today. But over time, with experience and more models behind me, my perspective has changed.


Many people who start their adventure with ship modeling face the same initial problem: lack of tools and a proper workshop. This topic comes up again and again, yet it’s still hard to find simple, clear, and practical advice for newcomers. Especially advice that helps you get started without overspending or feeling overwhelmed.


Speaking from experience – as someone who once started from scratch – here are a few thoughts that might help:




1. The most important tool? Patience.


Before you buy your first modeling knife or think about drills and saws, stop for a second.


The most important thing you need is the will to build. And the understanding that some models will take months or even years to complete.


This isn’t a race – it’s a journey. And patience is your most powerful tool. Without it, no glue or machine will help.




2. Workshop – don’t buy everything at once


You don’t need a fully equipped bench on day one. To start, all you really need is:


– good lighting and a small workspace (a kitchen table will do),
– a modeling knife (X-Acto or scalpel),
– a small saw for wood,
– sandpaper and files,
– tweezers, a ruler, square, and a few clamps.


That’s enough to begin. Tools can be added as you go, when you actually need them.




3. Glue – the invisible hero


It might seem like a small thing, but glue plays a huge role in how your build turns out.


Best glue to start with? White wood glue (PVA):


✅ safe, non-toxic, and easy to clean up,
✅ gives you time to adjust parts before it sets,
✅ creates a strong, flexible bond when dry.


Yes, it dries slowly and isn’t waterproof. But still – it’s perfect for wooden ship modeling, especially for beginners.


Later, you’ll also try:


CA glue (cyanoacrylate) – fast and strong, but tricky to control,
Epoxy – very durable and waterproof, great for structural or floating models.


But trust me: start with PVA – it teaches precision and patience better than anything else.




4. Knowledge and observation


Tools are one thing, but just as important is the tool in your head – the ability to observe and learn.


Don’t be afraid to ask questions. Watch how others work. Compare techniques, styles, and solutions. In ship modeling, there’s rarely just one “right” way.


Find good books, follow online groups, browse forums, watch experienced modelers. The more you observe, the more confident and skilled you’ll become.




5. Mistakes? Of course they’ll happen.


Every modeler makes mistakes – even the best. Sometimes you’ll need to redo things, take them apart, start again. That’s not failure – that’s learning.


Over time, you’ll understand that redoing a piece properly is better than trying to fix a mistake poorly.


Mistakes are part of the craft. And fixing them is part of the art.




6. And above all – passion


If you feel joy after spending a few hours and seeing just one part completed – a deck, a railing, a small detail – then you’re in the right place.


Ship modeling is more than a hobby – it’s history, craftsmanship, and calmness in one.


Don’t be discouraged by those showing off expensive tools or perfect workbenches.
Your most important tools are already with you: willpower, patience, and focus.


The rest will come with time.




See you along the way – where wood turns into sails, railings, and hulls.
Where a model is more than just an object – it’s a proof of passion, dedication, and craft.


Fair winds and calm seas!

"These are just my thoughts and experiences — I understand that others may see things differently."

Roman-ov
Good suggestions but I would make one correction. Yellow carpenter's PVA glue is much superior to white glue for wood ship models. One other comment that might be useful for beginners, vinegar will undo PVA glue joints as long as the joint has not set for too long.
 
Isopropyl alcohol is also very good for easily undoing PVA glue. Personally, I find the yellow carpenter's version difficult work with. being thick, aggressively fast setting and hard to reverse, almost too durable for me. Something I learned from Antique restoration. Having said, my opinion does in no way negate Polydoc's advice and experience. His is no doubt the result of personal practice and experience developed over time. I am sure he can expand and elaborate on the use of this glue in its' application for ship model building. I will be happy to be so advised. Something we all need to develop and experiment with for ourselves.
 
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Hi,
to the OP - fully agree, but when you are 82, you have to start on a higher gear. I have some experience from N scale trains and 1/72, 1/48 and 1/35 plastic planes and tanks, and now excited starting with wood and ships.

Who knows - maybe my grandsons will have to do the rigging one day - my hands have a bit of shake when they have to do some fine work (it is called Essential Tremor, but I don't need it right now).
I have a largish desk in my study (spare bedroom) with a large PC monitor, clean and carpeted, so for the heavy sanding stuff it will be the bench in the garage.
I have the Amati Santa Maria on the way.

After spending hours searching for ideas, I think I solved how I will do plank bending - for A$35 I will get a hair curler with 40mm drum, 10 temperature steps between 135-180°C. Will have to make a sturdy holder for it. The Amati electric bender is A$90, and the cheaper Artesania bender not available.

My next problem - how will I cut blocks of balsa to fill the spaces between bulkheads - precisely and squarely? I am thinking of taking up the advice for beginners to fill all spaces - to give a good base for the first layer of planks - not just the front and back areas (bow and stern).
Maybe just a mitre box (not cheap), maybe a cheap mini electric table saw from AliExpress?

Regarding glue - how about the Titebond II Premium? It is available in Australia. It is supposed to have fast grab. Is it too fast? And can it be undone with vinegar or alcohol (I have plenty of Jelinek Slivovitz)?

Any ideas will be appreciated.
 
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Some suggestions:

Buy a sheet of hardboard to put under your desk and chair. You WILL drop small parts. I’m also 82 so I know. If they land in the carpet they are gone forever.

Titebond II works fine, I use it all the time.

I understand that there’s an organization in Australia called Mens’ Shed that has power tools. Maybe cut your blocks there?

Roger
 
I don't know about Titebond II. As for the yellow carpenter's glue, perhaps some of the things that put me off it might prove to be a good alternative to CA. Viscosity can be controlled with water and its fast grab tack and quicker than white glue set time could be a nice alternative to CA.
 
Some suggestions:

Buy a sheet of hardboard to put under your desk and chair. You WILL drop small parts. I’m also 82 so I know. If they land in the carpet they are gone forever.

Titebond II works fine, I use it all the time.

I understand that there’s an organization in Australia called Mens’ Shed that has power tools. Maybe cut your blocks there?

Roger
I have been there a few times - under the desk looking for small parts. I am more careful now and don't use tweezers that make the tiny parts jump into space.

People recommend yellow glue - better for sanding. But "my" hobby shop only sells the Evergreen white. I must ask them why not yellow as well.

I think I will invest in a small table saw from China. They come with an additional motor that drives a chuck that can be used for sanding. I think it could pay for itself if I can use it to build jigs and the display stand. Haven't decided yet.
 
Sailing ships needn't have masting and rigging to be very satisfying. Hull models are a perfectly acceptable alternative.

Yes, but I am already committed to the Santa Maria. We'll see.

Regarding glues - I recently bought the ZAP Thin - a reddish bottle. It is as thin as water, and seeps in. They demonstrate it on gluing wood bits. I bought it for my plastic kit hobby to glue painted parts to painted parts. Normal plastic cement makes a mess of this. But the Thin CA is no good, because I can't take it on a toothpick. It does not form a tiny drop. But it should be OK for wood when it is useful to have the capillary action instead of spreading the glue beforehand on the parts.
 
Fingers
Fingers are tools we all use but rarely get a mention. What is the best state to keep them in? Sometimes, after being a bit careless with PVA they get a bit sticky. This can be useful for picking up dead eyes or gripping threads. On the other hand (and its attachments) it is annoying when a carefully placed piece comes away with your fingers when you try to let go. The state can depend on the weather: cold and dry or warm and sweaty. Should one control this? wash and dry regularly or apply hand cream? I guess most of us, like me, just use them in whatever state they acquire unless they become extremely unworkable. There is an optimal length for fingernails too.
 
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