3d printed parts

[Neil_jo]

Just wondering. I'm building HMS Ontario and the 3d parts are all gooey and slimy and would have to spend some time cleaning up all the little holes. Is this normal for 3d plastic?

 

[rtwpsom2]

You need to get a stiff bristled brush (I use bulk toothbrushes you can find on amazon), dip it in 99% isopropyl alcohol and give it a good rub down with the brush. This will clean all the unhardened resin off. You can't just dip it in the alcohol and swirl it around, you have to have physical scrubbing.

 

[Neil_jo]

Sorry forgot to add normal to my above question.

 

[Downmall]

Yeah, I’ve seen this too. Some 3D printed parts come out kind of slimy because of leftover resin. A quick wash with alcohol and a bit of scrubbing usually fixes it. Normal thing with resin prints.

 

[Neil_jo]

Yeah, I’ve seen this too. Some 3D printed parts come out kind of slimy because of leftover resin. A quick wash with alcohol and a bit of scrubbing usually fixes it. Normal thing with resin prints. old plastic and rubber

Old plastic an rubber does that too, but makes me wonder how old this kit is.
The tape around the wooden strips is old and gooey too.

thank
Neil

 

[RussF]

Yeah, I’ve seen this too. Some 3D printed parts come out kind of slimy because of leftover resin. A quick wash with alcohol and a bit of scrubbing usually fixes it. Normal thing with resin prints.

If these are actually 3d printed resin parts, it's a little disconcerting that they are sending them out that way. First, the resin, in liquid form, is usually quite toxic. Second, if the parts had been properly post-cured, that "leftover resin" would have hardened anyway.

 

[Neil_jo]

If these are actually 3d printed resin parts, it's a little disconcerting that they are sending them out that way. First, the resin, in liquid form, is usually quite toxic. Second, if the parts had been properly post-cured, that "leftover resin" would have hardened anyway.

I guess I'll be using the wooden parts.

Neil

 

[Kevin the Lubber]

No, that's not at all normal. I don't see anything in the design to cause that and my guess is that they haven't been washed and/or cured properly. An easy test is to stick them out in the sunlight for an hour or two. If they dry out and harden, problem solved. Otherwise, get some IPA (rubbing alcohol) or even methylated spirit and give them another wash, then stick them out in the sun. You don't need to scrub hard, that will just damage the detail.

There are a few reasons for sticky prints e.g. under-exposure during the print (unlikely here); washing in dirty IPA (normal practice is a two or three stage wash, finishing with very clean IPA), forgetting to wash altogether, under-curing or forgetting to cure (but this doesn't usually leave the parts sticky, just a bit soft).

 

[Neil_jo]

I cleaned it with a toothbrush and alcohol and it's better but not great and I'm not sure what the mesh part is called but half of the holes are filled with resin and have damaged it a bit trying to clear them.
I will only be using it as a guide for the wooden parts. And I'm not too happy with the look of them and will try to make my own.

Thanks
Neil

 

[Relic]

Neil,
I know this thread is only 48hrs, as of my writing this. Four people have responded with possible known solutions (IPA and UV light from our Sun).

It would be a comfort to know if you tried their suggestions and you are now out of the weeds with your issue.
Please let us all know how you made out.
Thx

 

[Paul D Hall]

I finished my Ontario about two months ago. I had opted for the upgrades including the 3-D bow and stern features. As I noted in an earlier posting, I would not use either of the resin castings if I were to start over. I did use the stern castings only because I started with them before I realized that I could have done a better job had I constructed them in wood. By the time I did the bow, I used the casting only as a 3-D guide and constructed everything out of wood. This is a very fine kit in many ways, but I would forego the extra cost for the3-D castings. However, the upscale blocks and cannon are truly fantastic compared to what I have been used to using.

I also felt that the rigging plans provided were impossible to fully interpret. I purchased supplement book(s) to help me be accurate as possible, but it is likely that Ontario rigging plans are simply not available. The multiple use of belaying pins makes the ship seem a little "cluttered" and forced me to use "rope" that is smaller than what might be called for. The final result, however, is a beautiful model and is the only two masted ship in my collection (known as a Snow).

 

[Kevin the Lubber]

I'm not sure what the mesh part is called but half of the holes are filled with resin and have damaged it a bit trying to clear them.

The holes being filled in is down to object design and orientation for the print. That's the tricky part of 3D printing. It might have been better to design this as a 4 part assembly (frame, grating, heads x 2), maybe even more. It's a tricky part to orientate.

I'm afraid if they haven't fully dried out after re-washing and curing, it's unlikely they ever will now.

 

[Neil_jo]

I finished my Ontario about two months ago. I had opted for the upgrades including the 3-D bow and stern features. As I noted in an earlier posting, I would not use either of the resin castings if I were to start over. I did use the stern castings only because I started with them before I realized that I could have done a better job had I constructed them in wood. By the time I did the bow, I used the casting only as a 3-D guide and constructed everything out of wood. This is a very fine kit in many ways, but I would forego the extra cost for the3-D castings. However, the upscale blocks and cannon are truly fantastic compared to what I have been used to using.

I also felt that the rigging plans provided were impossible to fully interpret. I purchased supplement book(s) to help me be accurate as possible, but it is likely that Ontario rigging plans are simply not available. The multiple use of belaying pins makes the ship seem a little "cluttered" and forced me to use "rope" that is smaller than what might be called for. The final result, however, is a beautiful model and is the only two masted ship in my collection (known as a Snow).

Thanks Paul. I'm finding it to be a difficult build but will persevere. And I do like the blocks and cannons.

Neil

 

[François]

It is not normal. Did you buy these parts? If so, the supplier did not finish the job. After printing, the parts need to be washed in either alcohol or water depending on the resin used and then cured with uv light. Sunlight will also cure.

 

[Neil_jo]

They now come with the kit, used to be an option.

It is not normal. Did you buy these parts? If so, the supplier did not finish the job. After printing, the parts need to be washed in either alcohol or water depending on the resin used and then cured with uv light. Sunlight will also cure.

 

[Marquinius]

Perhaps I’m a little late to the party … but as Ive been 3D printing now for about two years, I’m starting to understand a few issues.

This looks like the “washing” was done with polluted IPA, in other words, old IPA with lots of resin in it already. You can wash for hours, but will not get that slimy film off (you’re actually re-depositing it from the IPA).

You can do a few things:
- send back and order clean ones …
- get some 99% IPA, wash, dry and put out in the sun for an hour or so

In the end a touch of primer will help as well.

Hope this helps.