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HMS Enterprise 1775 1/96 - First build log

Joined
Apr 18, 2025
Messages
98
Points
78

Location
Kent Weald, South East England
Started this Modelship Dockyard project about three months ago, but was never sure how it would pan out, so only just starting a log.........................

The early stages, making the frames, seemed tedious and I wish I'd done a better job. The rough fairing has already involved removing more material than I'd like, but I have learnt my lesson. Way more care to be taken next time!

Finding parts is a challenge and looking at other build logs here on SOS has been indispensable. The kit's instructions, excepting the eight videos, are minimal and some kit parts are missing or so similar as to create some confusion. Various gaps and misalignments have appeared during construction which take a little ingenuity and head scratching to resolve. However, that’s been part of the fun of it.

Current status seen below. Just finishing the lower deck. Next step standing knees and hatch combings. I will probably do a little more of the rough fairing as well because I'm concerned that heavy vibration later may start to weaken joints on some of the more delicate parts where the wood-to-wood contact area is very small. Boxwood is hard, and many parts are very thin, so vibration is considerable.

I've left out various elements, such as the interior rooms as I wasn't thrilled with the laser engraving quality. I also felt that I wanted to 'open out' the interior and let in more light. Furthermore, I used thinner stock for the carlings for the same reason. I removed most of the engraving from the 'well' due to its boldness. I wanted to include the well as it's a nice connection between the frame and the lower deck and its central position just sorta works!

I'll not be using any of the 3D printer parts as I want the model to be just wood and glue. Some I'll remake in boxwood, others I'll leave out. It all depends on visual effect. My idea isn't to make a perfectly accurate model, but a visually interesting representation of the ship that shows of the natural beauty of its design and construction as well as the quality of the kit.

No liquid surface treatment to be used. All finishing is with polishing paper which is very laborious, but I like the look of natural wood.


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Your build looks extremely good! Things like the taper of the knee of the head are great to see. The moulded dimension of the top timbers do look to be a bit heavy, but it may be the photo. They would be about 0.032" (0.8mm) to .0416" (1.06mm) at your scale of 1:96 depending on where on the hull. From the contemporary contract:

The top timbers to be sided at the heels & upper futtock heads 10 ½ ins and at the top of the side 10 ins, to be well grown young Timber, & those appointed to make the sides of the ports, sided 11 ins, quite free from sap or wane when the port is trimmed out, & that there remains whole Wood clear of the bitt of the sill, not less than 9 ins, moulded in & out of the Top Timber Head 3 ins, & forward in wake of the timber heads 4 ins.


If you do not have a copy but have any interest in the transcription of the entire contract for reference, please feel free to PM me and I can forward it.

Thanks for sharing your work Richard.

Allan
 
Thank you for your support everyone.

Allan, thank you for your advice. I confess to not having considered such matters, but if I am to take 10 1/2 inches (270mm) as the 'average' width of top timber, that would translate to 2.8mm @1/96.
I hadn't really considered it, by totally appreciate you pointing out details of the contract. I have limited experience, so hadn't noticed the discrepancy. My concern is that I would soon find myself out of my depth if I tried to go for extreme accuracy at this early stage in my ship modelling activities. I imagine that I would be overwhelmed if I attempted to follow the contract closely, but welcome any suggestions you might give.
 
but if I am to take 10 1/2 inches (270mm) as the 'average' width of top timber, that would translate to 2.8mm @1/96.
I was referring to the moulded dimension, sorry for the confusion. It is as the contract states, 3 inches or 4 inches, 10 1/2 inches is the sided dimension. The moulded (in and out) dimension looks to be double what it actually was. In any case, if the top timber moulded dimension is too large, when you add the planking inboard and outboard, the rail on top will have to be extraordinarily broad and out of scale by a lot.

As to using the contract, it is a great reference and as useful as any one of us wants it to be. The main differences in the contract and the kit might be dimensions or quantities so not always overwhelming. Sanding down the frames to contract dimensions can be time consuming, but not difficult. Quick and ship modeling are definitely not synonymous. Offer for the contract stands if you are interested. :)

Allan
 
Hello @AllanKP69, I'm a novice when it comes to nautical terms... but trying to learn as much as I go. The term "moulded dimension" was confusing me and a quick search brought me to one of your posts in another build. Just to be sure, the question mark on the diagram is what you are referring? if yes, in @RichardG pictures above, the frames should be tapered from the outside or the inside? or both?
Alert top timber heads.PNG
 
Yes, the moulded dimension is how thick it is from the outside of the ship to the inside of the ship. The sided dimension is how thick it is from the front of the ship to the back of the ship.
 
Started this Modelship Dockyard project about three months ago, but was never sure how it would pan out, so only just starting a log.........................

The early stages, making the frames, seemed tedious and I wish I'd done a better job. The rough fairing has already involved removing more material than I'd like, but I have learnt my lesson. Way more care to be taken next time!

Finding parts is a challenge and looking at other build logs here on SOS has been indispensable. The kit's instructions, excepting the eight videos, are minimal and some kit parts are missing or so similar as to create some confusion. Various gaps and misalignments have appeared during construction which take a little ingenuity and head scratching to resolve. However, that’s been part of the fun of it.

Current status seen below. Just finishing the lower deck. Next step standing knees and hatch combings. I will probably do a little more of the rough fairing as well because I'm concerned that heavy vibration later may start to weaken joints on some of the more delicate parts where the wood-to-wood contact area is very small. Boxwood is hard, and many parts are very thin, so vibration is considerable.

I've left out various elements, such as the interior rooms as I wasn't thrilled with the laser engraving quality. I also felt that I wanted to 'open out' the interior and let in more light. Furthermore, I used thinner stock for the carlings for the same reason. I removed most of the engraving from the 'well' due to its boldness. I wanted to include the well as it's a nice connection between the frame and the lower deck and its central position just sorta works!

I'll not be using any of the 3D printer parts as I want the model to be just wood and glue. Some I'll remake in boxwood, others I'll leave out. It all depends on visual effect. My idea isn't to make a perfectly accurate model, but a visually interesting representation of the ship that shows of the natural beauty of its design and construction as well as the quality of the kit.

No liquid surface treatment to be used. All finishing is with polishing paper which is very laborious, but I like the look of natural wood.


View attachment 548615View attachment 548616View attachment 548617View attachment 548618
Your Enterprise model is looking very nice, Richard. For sure given the 1:96 scale. And I like your personal touch to go for a ‘wood&glue’ model and to show the structure of all that nice polished wood.
Regards, Peter
 
Started this Modelship Dockyard project about three months ago, but was never sure how it would pan out, so only just starting a log.........................

The early stages, making the frames, seemed tedious and I wish I'd done a better job. The rough fairing has already involved removing more material than I'd like, but I have learnt my lesson. Way more care to be taken next time!

Finding parts is a challenge and looking at other build logs here on SOS has been indispensable. The kit's instructions, excepting the eight videos, are minimal and some kit parts are missing or so similar as to create some confusion. Various gaps and misalignments have appeared during construction which take a little ingenuity and head scratching to resolve. However, that’s been part of the fun of it.

Current status seen below. Just finishing the lower deck. Next step standing knees and hatch combings. I will probably do a little more of the rough fairing as well because I'm concerned that heavy vibration later may start to weaken joints on some of the more delicate parts where the wood-to-wood contact area is very small. Boxwood is hard, and many parts are very thin, so vibration is considerable.

I've left out various elements, such as the interior rooms as I wasn't thrilled with the laser engraving quality. I also felt that I wanted to 'open out' the interior and let in more light. Furthermore, I used thinner stock for the carlings for the same reason. I removed most of the engraving from the 'well' due to its boldness. I wanted to include the well as it's a nice connection between the frame and the lower deck and its central position just sorta works!

I'll not be using any of the 3D printer parts as I want the model to be just wood and glue. Some I'll remake in boxwood, others I'll leave out. It all depends on visual effect. My idea isn't to make a perfectly accurate model, but a visually interesting representation of the ship that shows of the natural beauty of its design and construction as well as the quality of the kit.

No liquid surface treatment to be used. All finishing is with polishing paper which is very laborious, but I like the look of natural wood.


View attachment 548615View attachment 548616View attachment 548617View attachment 548618
Dear Richard, you look a bit too humble about your model: pics show something just beautifully put together and one of the best 1:96 Enterprize seen so far on SOS as well.
 
Thank you Allan and Loracs. I feel that I would like to investigate this point further. for example, from what point on the frame does it begin to get thinner? is it continuous from the floor timber?

I've looked quickly online but can't find any good illustrations. I'll consult my few ship building books this afternoon - GMT :cool:
 
Your Enterprise model is looking very nice, Richard. For sure given the 1:96 scale. And I like your personal touch to go for a ‘wood&glue’ model and to show the structure of all that nice polished wood.
Regards, Peter
Thank you Peter.

At present I'm polishing everything (to varying degrees), in the hope that it might result in a little extra reflected light internally when the rest of the structure starts to darken the interior. Its laborious and may not pay off, but I'll see. Some parts jar a little if they are too shiny so it's a slow process of trial and error. It is easy enough to remove the shine with 2000 grit and leave a nice satin-ish finish.
 
I'm a novice when it comes to nautical terms.
I think we all are to some extent but we learn as we go along. Yes, the question mark is the moulded dimenions in your picture. Check the breadth of the model as it sits now then you can decide whether you want to sand the outboard or inboard side of the hull frames. Using the scantlings from the contract the breadths should be as in the drawing below, or very close. If your model is wider, I would sand the outside. If it is the right dimension on the outside (or very close at least) sand the inside.
Allan

1759834251379.jpeg
 
I think we all are to some extent but we learn as we go along. Yes, the question mark is the moulded dimenions in your picture. Check the breadth of the model as it sits now then you can decide whether you want to sand the outboard or inboard side of the hull frames. Using the scantlings from the contract the breadths should be as in the drawing below, or very close. If your model is wider, I would sand the outside. If it is the right dimension on the outside (or very close at least) sand the inside.
Allan

View attachment 548713
Thanks,
I'll definitely need to remove material from the exterior. I won't go down to the 1mm though as I intend to leave parts of the frame exposed and I think it would just be too fragile.
 
I won't go down to the 1mm though as I intend to leave parts of the frame exposed and I think it would just be too fragile.
The wood in the kit looks to be high quality so 1mm should hold up well. Maybe make a test piece and see what kind of abuse it can handle. :)
Allan
 
The wood in the kit looks to be high quality so 1mm should hold up well. Maybe make a test piece and see what kind of abuse it can handle. :)
Allan
OK Allan I will try it on a test piece. I need more guidance though. I imagine the correct size would result in an attractive 'slender' appearance, but I'm not clear about the rate of taper e.g. If I do so, how 'thick' should the upper and lower sills be for the gunports? Upper sills around midship might be very thin.
 
Started this Modelship Dockyard project about three months ago, but was never sure how it would pan out, so only just starting a log.........................

The early stages, making the frames, seemed tedious and I wish I'd done a better job. The rough fairing has already involved removing more material than I'd like, but I have learnt my lesson. Way more care to be taken next time!

Finding parts is a challenge and looking at other build logs here on SOS has been indispensable. The kit's instructions, excepting the eight videos, are minimal and some kit parts are missing or so similar as to create some confusion. Various gaps and misalignments have appeared during construction which take a little ingenuity and head scratching to resolve. However, that’s been part of the fun of it.

Current status seen below. Just finishing the lower deck. Next step standing knees and hatch combings. I will probably do a little more of the rough fairing as well because I'm concerned that heavy vibration later may start to weaken joints on some of the more delicate parts where the wood-to-wood contact area is very small. Boxwood is hard, and many parts are very thin, so vibration is considerable.

I've left out various elements, such as the interior rooms as I wasn't thrilled with the laser engraving quality. I also felt that I wanted to 'open out' the interior and let in more light. Furthermore, I used thinner stock for the carlings for the same reason. I removed most of the engraving from the 'well' due to its boldness. I wanted to include the well as it's a nice connection between the frame and the lower deck and its central position just sorta works!

I'll not be using any of the 3D printer parts as I want the model to be just wood and glue. Some I'll remake in boxwood, others I'll leave out. It all depends on visual effect. My idea isn't to make a perfectly accurate model, but a visually interesting representation of the ship that shows of the natural beauty of its design and construction as well as the quality of the kit.

No liquid surface treatment to be used. All finishing is with polishing paper which is very laborious, but I like the look of natural wood.


View attachment 548615View attachment 548616View attachment 548617View attachment 548618
Lovely modelling Richard.
 
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