Scratch building

[Big Al]

I’m trying to understand the definition of scratch building. I certainly wouldn’t put down anyone’s model, no matter how they describe the build, but for what it’s worth this is my idea of scratch building. The model would be built without any purchases of pre made parts. A plan would help and of course, photos. Every part should be hand made or any suitable odds and ends could be used. I have attached a few photos of a fishing trawler that incorporates my ideas of scratch building. Virtually everything is hand made down to the blocks in the running rigging. Some bits form around my workshop have been used if they fit into the build. I enjoy seeing everyone’s models and congratulate them on their work. I would like to hear you comments.

 

[JerryTodd]

I get it, you're in Australia, so your pics are upside-down

 

[Jimsky]

I get it, you're in Australia, so your pics are upside-down

Jerry, I have corrected the images.

 

[AllanKP69]

I’m trying to understand the definition of scratch building

This has been discussed many many times and I cannot recall a definitive definition. For competitions they have sets of rules but other than that there tends to be disagreements. For example, can you purchase rope from an after market supplier or is it necessary to make your own rope to claim a scratch build? I believe there are members here that are far more familiar with the written rules in competitions and I hope they can answer your question.
Allan

 

[Jimsky]

I’m trying to understand the definition of scratch building.

I agree with Allan—we've discussed this many times across various threads. I don't claim to be an expert, but here are my thoughts:

The term "scratch" comes from the phrase "from scratch," meaning starting from the most basic elements. Scratch builders typically work from plans, photographs, or their own designs, measuring and fabricating each piece individually using hand tools and machinery. It is the process of creating a scale model (in our case) entirely (or almost entirely) from raw materials, rather than from a commercial kit. Instead of pre-cut parts, photo-etch, or laser-cut components, the scratch builder uses

• sheets and strips of wood
• metal wire or brass stock
• plastic sheet (styrene)
• plans, drawings, and reference photos
• their own jigs, templates, and tooling

In everyday hobby use, “scratch building” can mean anything from heavy kit-bashing to fully building a model from raw materials. But in competitions, the definition is not universal. Each organisation sets its own rules for what qualifies as a scratch-built model and what level of freedom or prefabricated components is allowed.
Because every competition defines scratch building differently, a model that is considered “scratch built” on a forum may not meet scratch-building criteria under NAVIGA, NRG, IPMS, or local club rules.

Example: NAVIGA Rules

Under NAVIGA (one of the world’s major governing bodies for scale-model ship competitions), the standards for scratch building are very strict:

• No commercial hulls or structural parts may be used.
• The competitor must fabricate the hull, superstructure, decks, and all major components themselves.
• Prefabricated aftermarket fittings (e.g., chain, turned brass barrels, photo-etch parts) are allowed only within limits and must be declared.
• Every item not made by the competitor counts against the final score.
• The builder must provide documentation and proof of construction, often with a photo log.

Under NAVIGA, a scratch-built model means the participant is effectively the designer, manufacturer, and builder of the model — from keel to rigging.

So when someone says, “This is scratch-built,” the only meaningful definition in a competition context is the one used by that specific organisation’s rulebook.

Scratch building is a spectrum, not an absolute.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

I do kit bashing as a way of shortcutting many of the time consuming elements of model building. My current model is abouty 10% original kit parts and 90% scratch built. Most of the leftover kit parts will be given away to a needy modeler when the ship is done. That includes all the blocks, guns, carriages, fittings, and rigging line and wire. They are just not up to good standards, but that's be expected from a DeAgostini kit aimed at rank beginners. The instruction books and all the binders will also go eventually.

There is a range in model building between using all pre-manufactured parts and lofting the hull and using raw materials to build from. Most of us are somewhere in between. Things like deck gratings, blocks, cannon barrels, and other fittings can be carefully chosen to retain details and proper scale if you are a discerning buyer. I'm a big fan of Russian parts from Falkonet and ship's launch kits from Master Korabel because they are made from premium pear wood and scaled properly in shape and size. I am not a fan of Model Shipways parts, which are often too generic, have crude castings, lower detail, and not many parts suitable for ships older than 1780. Everyone has their favorites, and you chose where to buy parts based on what they are and where you find them.

As for classifying models for display at shows and the like, leave that to the guys who run the show and don't let any of them dictate what you build, because unless you are clout chasing for community recognition, you build for YOU, first and foremost.

 

[Corsair]

Unless you are going to place it in a competition, it means what ever you think it means for you.