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Build Log. HMS VICTORY ANATOMY by Artesania

Joined
Dec 22, 2024
Messages
60
Points
78

Location
Georgia
Since I retired end of 2018 I have built Soleil Royal by DeAgostini, Amerigo Vespucci by Panart, The Flying Dutchman by OcCre and HMS Victory Shipyard by OcCre. During the HMS victory I decided to build 2 additional HMS Victory kits. I plan to build the Caldercraft last but for now I am starting the Artesania HMS Victory Anatomy with light kit and figurines.

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I decided to do this build log as I am about 1 month into the build and realized if others are going to build this kit I might be able to alert them to things that can be problematic.
Putting the frame together was pretty straight forward. In the instructions it call for sanding of the hull to be done much later. I decided to sand the majority of the hull especially as it relates to the open hull side.

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The hood floor is coming along pretty good here. Note of caution. Make sure the inner ribs are perfect or you’ll have issues with the upcoming Orlop deck. They provide a template for the fitting of the middle of the ribs at the floor level but the upper tips are as or more important than the floor. If I had to do it over I would make 3 templates. One for the floor that comes with the kit and 2 additional for each of the sides.

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It’s a great privilege to learn about the detailed production process of this model kit. I’ve been considering whether I can complete the model assembly independently, so thank you very much for your sharing.
 
I’m going to try to post a little more each day with the goal of catching up to where I’m actually at in the build.

I learned on both the hold and the Orlop that the inside hull planking especially towards the bow and stern is critical to try to duplicate what is in the video. Pay attention to the last 2 ribs and the curve. I originally thought it not so critical and you won’t see it but that is not the case.
 
In the video instructions #3 it shows you a method for making a square sheet out of 2x4 planks. All I can say is make sure how ever you do this that the planks are glued solid.
If you look closely in video 3&4 they use these sheets for the sub builds but all their pieces are laser cut. You can see the burn on the side of the parts. Having said that it is critical that the making of the sheet is solid. Also several of the hold components have a jaggy looking opening to allow for viewing. You may consider making this a little more simpler opening.

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When your hold is ready for adding the provisions be aware that the section in front of the cool room with the copper needs the barrels as shown. You will have long pieces of wood coming down from the 2 decks above that will rest on the hull floor.
I also rubbed up the barrels to make them look a little more worn.
The video also shows the flour sacks and you can see they laser cut that as well. I just but show rectangles and made my own pattern.

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I decided to tackle the light kit on this vessel and purchased the Micro Scapers recommended for this build. The little tool was at best average. It need to allow for a deeper channel for the wiring.
I used it to start the channel and then did some
Filing with a square file. I can say that some of the hold sub builds needed some modification but that was due more to myself not grasping the importance of the inner hull. All were minor but still needed to are the light rafter fit properly.
Once I remembered how to solder again it went along pretty good. I cut the number of wires down by half.
I just joined each pair instead of running wires for every light.
The light cover they provided leaves a lot to be desired. They are not near as crisp as the video shows and I found it hard to find the ridges to paint. So I went more basic. Also they are kind of loose on the light so each cover will need to be glued.
Last point. The lights are only 3v so don’t put more than 6v on them. I wanted to set this up with a plug and on/off switch and had a pack here with. 12v supply. I cooked a couple lights.

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When your hold is ready for adding the provisions be aware that the section in front of the cool room with the copper needs the barrels as shown. You will have long pieces of wood coming down from the 2 decks above that will rest on the hull floor.
I also rubbed up the barrels to make them look a little more worn.
The video also shows the flour sacks and you can see they laser cut that as well. I just but show rectangles and made my own pattern.

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Additional item of importance place all the sub builds in position and then position the overhead beams before you glue the sub builds. They mention this on the Orlop deck but should have started with the hold. I suggest testing each set of deck beams as you build the layers up.
 
I started the Orlop deck about 2 weeks ago. First thing, I was happy with the 4 pieces of decking and how they actually fit.
I only had a couple minor issues with decking.
I assembled the stern section which includes the captains store, purser’s and stewards rooms.
The level of detail with the rail windows, hinges and door latches are quite small and delicate but worth the effort. I then moved onto the bow section which includes the boatswain’s and carpenters quarters.
Both of these pieces are slightly collapsable and need care as you place and remove them during the fitting process.

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Continuing with the Orlop deck. Spent a whole day shaping about 2 dozen columns. I got better as I did them more. It’s like many things in life.
PRACTICE.
Laid the cable down which will be pulled through the bow later.
Painted and grooved the 15 beams and readied them for wiring of the Orlop lights which I plan to finish this week. So pretty much caught up and hopefully I can provide daily or at least weekly updates of this build. The kit comes with copper tape and I’m not a huge fan so I ordered copper plates and plan to add them. Also I have the ulterior motive of wanting to use them on the Caldercraft Victory that’s my next build. So good practice.

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Continuing with the Orlop deck. Spent a whole day shaping about 2 dozen columns. I got better as I did them more. It’s like many things in life.
PRACTICE.
Laid the cable down which will be pulled through the bow later.
Painted and grooved the 15 beams and readied them for wiring of the Orlop lights which I plan to finish this week. So pretty much caught up and hopefully I can provide daily or at least weekly updates of this build. The kit comes with copper tape and I’m not a huge fan so I ordered copper plates and plan to add them. Also I have the ulterior motive of wanting to use them on the Caldercraft Victory that’s my next build. So good practice.

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Good morning. Avery interesting project. So far very well constructed. Cheers Grant
 
Since I retired end of 2018 I have built Soleil Royal by DeAgostini, Amerigo Vespucci by Panart, The Flying Dutchman by OcCre and HMS Victory Shipyard by OcCre. During the HMS victory I decided to build 2 additional HMS Victory kits. I plan to build the Caldercraft last but for now I am starting the Artesania HMS Victory Anatomy with light kit and figurines.

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Beautiful work. Wish I could do that well.
 
I always tell the wife I know where all the oops are. The great things about building ships is that people just like to look at them and don’t really delve into the details. You for sure can do well. Patience and Practice.
 
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