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Based on these drawings and published dimensions for the program's ships plus the many other sources he reserached, saying he made it all up does not seem reasonable.
i understand what you're saying and i agree to say it is all made up was a bit out of line. It is not made up so i edited that out of my post.
i do not have the book so i do not know how a set of plans were done or what they are based on.
however i did make the comment based on this it is listed as fiction which is
Fiction is any creative work, chiefly any narrative work, portraying individuals, events, or places that are imaginary or in ways that are imaginary.
i understand what you're saying and i agree to say it is all made up was a bit out of line. It is not made up so i edited that out of my post.
i do not have the book so i do not know how a set of plans were done or what they are based on.
however i did make the comment based on this it is listed as fiction which is
Fiction is any creative work, chiefly any narrative work, portraying individuals, events, or places that are imaginary or in ways that are imaginary.
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What on earth do you need waterlines for if you have all the frames you need?
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I have the book. The plans are on a fold out drawing on the back of the dust jacket. There are two views; a Sheer view and a half breadth. Waterlines are shown on the half breadth. There is no body plan and no buttocks on the sheer view. A note says that the lines have been reconstructed by Endsor.
In theory there is sufficient information to build a model. BUT! I find that it’s much more difficult to draw body plan sections from waterlines than vice versa. Of course if the builder can get the body plan that matches the book’s drawing from Endsor, he has what he needs
Roger
In theory there is sufficient information to build a model. BUT! I find that it’s much more difficult to draw body plan sections from waterlines than vice versa. Of course if the builder can get the body plan that matches the book’s drawing from Endsor, he has what he needs
Roger
That is interesting but it does not appear to be listed by their website as fiction in spite of their name. It describes the book as non fiction even though they seem to be predominantly a fiction book website.
From their website: https://www.historicnavalfiction.com/search?q=The+restoration+Warship
- The Restoration Warship: The Design, Construction and Career of a Third Rate of Charles II's Navyhttps://www.historicnavalfiction.com/other-genres/aos-naval-non-fiction/ships-a-design/the-restoration-warship- the-design-construction-and-career-of-a-third-rate-of-charles-iis-navy
- Type: Article
- Author: Richard Endsor
- Category: AOS Naval Non-Fiction - Ships & Design
As a yacht designer in NZ, my waterlines were drawn as the Load waterline (LWL) as the datum and for ease of identification labeled as WL1, WL2, WL3 etc above the LWL ) and WLA, WLB etc below the LWL.
Above the LWL, I usually spaced the waterlines at between 250mm and 300mm, and below the LWL, usually between 200mm and 25omm. This was for yachts 6 to 15 Mtrs length
If I was going to loft off these cross sections, I would draw in 3 waterlines above the LWL and below the lower sheer line and another waterline for the raised poop deck.
Below the LWL, perhaps 4, but you will find that the diagonals are a more accurate lofting measurement, particularly in the waterlines close to the keel.
Hope this helps.
Just one thing - - The drawings are to the OUTSIDE of the hull planking/plating and when making the frames, the shipwrights would deduct the planking thickness. I have just lofted out the Cutty Sark and just went to the outside of the hull. The plankin on a model is very thin compared to the actual vessels planking, particularly on traditional wooden warships.
Hi Ewok
Which drawings are you referring to? I assume this is not the body plan, which is the moulded breadth, not the extreme breadth
Thanks
Allan
Hi Jerzy, Old drafting guy here and trying to go back and help with your original question. I never had to draw naval lines but was tortured by complex curves on a drafting board for product design. To put it simply, you will need 3 points in space. You have the shear lines (first point) and most important. Now draw water lines and/or diagonals at a spacing of your choice, the number (spacing) will depend on how precise you would like the curve (second point). Then you have the location of the frames (third point).
As Roger had stated earlier I think, make a top view for each water line or diagonal line starting with the Keel and a perpendicular line at each of the known frame centers. Plot each point of intersection between the shear line and the water or diagonal line on the corresponding frame. Both are derived from the view you have originally posted. You will need some French curves (usually a set of 3) or if you can find a set of "ships" curves (a large number of curves with very subtle lines) or again as Roger had stated, a flexible piece of wood or plastic (I used plastic) to draw the curve through the points at each frame intersection.
The above will need to be done if you want to add more frames. On that same drawing, add the frame centers and note the intersection of the curve you just drew then go back to a drawing like your original view and plot the point, draw another curve through the points and that should give you the profile of the added frames.
I do not envy you on this task and glad I started 3D CAD in the late 80's. Plot the points at each frame and draw a spline through, the program interpolates the curve and I can fiddle with the tangent at each point to get a smooth curve. I apologize for not being able to show you this process as I retired my drafting board about 40 years ago.
I sincerely hope the above helps.
Thanks,
Tim
As Roger had stated earlier I think, make a top view for each water line or diagonal line starting with the Keel and a perpendicular line at each of the known frame centers. Plot each point of intersection between the shear line and the water or diagonal line on the corresponding frame. Both are derived from the view you have originally posted. You will need some French curves (usually a set of 3) or if you can find a set of "ships" curves (a large number of curves with very subtle lines) or again as Roger had stated, a flexible piece of wood or plastic (I used plastic) to draw the curve through the points at each frame intersection.
The above will need to be done if you want to add more frames. On that same drawing, add the frame centers and note the intersection of the curve you just drew then go back to a drawing like your original view and plot the point, draw another curve through the points and that should give you the profile of the added frames.
I do not envy you on this task and glad I started 3D CAD in the late 80's. Plot the points at each frame and draw a spline through, the program interpolates the curve and I can fiddle with the tangent at each point to get a smooth curve. I apologize for not being able to show you this process as I retired my drafting board about 40 years ago.
I sincerely hope the above helps.
Thanks,
Tim