Royal Louis - Mamoli

[Gilbertm]

Here goes, this is the start of my build log of the Royal Louis 120 gun ship of the line in 1:90 scale, this is a kit from the late Mamoli company.

Due to issues it’s nearly two years since I stopped modelling, my wife bought me this kit for Xmas in an attempt to get me started again. She succeeded as I started the build on Boxing Day.

The Kit. It was bought from Ebay and I believe that it is at least twenty years old. It was complete and in perfect condition, like new with no warped sheets and all the strip wood was surprisingly good.

There are six different types of strip wood in various colours and certainly plenty of it, enough for the many re-does that I’m sure I’ll be needing to do. There is a large amount of cast parts, mostly good and plenty of the usual kit supplied stuff. The plans are excellent, plenty of them and well detailed, three being 1:1 scale sheets much better than the new trend of online guides. The instructions are acceptable/good. ( Italian translated ) but appear very useable.

As I mentioned, I started about six weeks ago and I’ve made quite a bit of progress so initially my log will be trying to catch up with the current state of the build. I’ll do the log as if I’m doing it in real time, mistakes and all, it took some time to get my head around building again so there’s plenty of them. As usual I’ll be building only with parts supplied with the kit, this is my normal way as historical accuracy is not my thing, I just enjoy the build.

I’m a bit nervous about the small 1:90 scale, especially with the smaller parts as I have issues with my hands and have very recently had intrusive surgery which has left my left arm looking like it was bitten by a shark leaving little feeling at the moment, but recovering so please give me some slack.


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hi Ken
Looking forward to your build

 

[Ken]

Hello, Here I am again, still catching up. This post will tell you that after errors and false starts I have at last got my head around this build and given myself direction. I think that it was starting up again after my lay off that I didn’t fully concentrate on what was needed.

You will see that I started the first planking using the method indicated in the instructions. After much re-alignment of the cast ports I laid the initial planks above and below the ports, I then started to plank between the ports. I really disliked this method so quickly gave up on it deciding that I would do it my own way. I ripped the ports and planking out and started over. I decided to build in ply backing strips between the bulkheads to mount the half barrels, as there were no decks I couldn’t put the normal blocks in, also as I couldn’t determine the exact location of the barrels yet this method gave me plenty of leeway. The cast open ports for the upper deck were ok so I used them as intended. I was now going to fully plank the hull then using the excellent 1:1 plans I would mark up and cut out the ports lining them normally. This was a good time to fit the quarter deck, I fitted the cabin facia and ships wheel under this deck, I don’t think that these will be seen but they will be there. I started the second planking by fitting the open ports into the walls of the main deck, planking around them, getting an acceptable fit and finish before getting stuck into the main job of planking.

I felt much happier about the build as I was now doing it my way and not trying to adapt to what was intended to be a simpler method which I believe wouldn’t have satisfied me.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Hi Kurt. You’ve arrived at the same conclusion that I came to. The first planking would terminated at the edge of each gun port, when completed you were supposed to file down the cast port to be level with the planking. There would be little support for that initial planking and an even flow of the planks would be difficult to achieve. As you suggested I ended up putting blocks where the half barrels would fit, planked normally, marked and cut out the ports as would be normal practice. I should have backed my feeling about this and saved quite a bit of time and effort, you will see all this in my catch up posts.

I'm eager to see the results. Thanks, Ken!

 

[Ken]

Hello and again thanks for following and for your likes.

Again it’s still catching up, I wish that I could plank as quick as this in real time.. What I didn’t mention last time was that having taken away the start of the upper planking I was able to half cut through the upper arms of the bulwarks so that I could break them off ready to plank the inner walls, I’d forgotten to do this. I had even planked between them, I wasn’t thinking so this part of the deck planking needed to be removed. This was surprisingly difficult without damaging any adjacent planks.
I also didn’t mention that I took some time to sand the hull, reducing the bulkheads to get a good profile, at least I didn’t forget that.

The first planking is made up from 4x1.5 white wood, again in nice condition. I used white glue and nails for this. I found that I could not pick up and hold these small nails due to my problem but fount that by using an Amati pin pusher I was able to get around the issue, I also use my homemade plank holder. The shape of the bow made things a little tricky in getting a good flow of planks. At the top it flared out, then a slight inward curve then going into a round bulbous curve, but lower near the keel it went into a slight concave curve, a better profile for cutting through the water. As you’ll see it didn’t cause an issue but I really had to think it through. The pictures show the hull after a very light sanding, next step will be a layer of filler and a good sanding to get the desired finish. This stage in a build is a significant landmark so I was quite pleased.

The pictures show the sequence of the first planking.


My homemade plank holder.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

I see you were able to to use the metal gunports and still preserve the evenness of the hull surface. Wonderful work, Ken!

The Amati Fine Pins because they are so thin that they won't split planks and the points are needle sharp. However, they are long but very thin and hard to pick up with your fingers. So, you pick up with a needle nose pliers and then load it into the pin pusher. If you push them in such that the head is flush or submerged in the wood, the head can be sanded off during hull sanding easily, and the heads left behond won't interfere with the second planking layer by protruding from the hull.

 

[Doug77]

That looks fantastic, cut you some slack, I think you’re a sandbagged, HA, you’re an inspiration to me, I need to get motivated! Can’t wait to see the finished product!

 

[Ken]

That looks fantastic, cut you some slack, I think you’re a sandbagged, HA, you’re an inspiration to me, I need to get motivated! Can’t wait to see the finished product!

Hi Doug. Thanks for your compliment. One doesn’t know what can be achieved until you really try

 

[Stuart Little]

Hello and thanks for visiting my build and for the likes given. This is still catching up to the current state of the build. It shows the planking of the main deck, the deck beams and the stern gun ports.

The deck planking was made up using .5 x 4mm I think a dark sappelle which I fixed in place with white glue after darkening their edges. The nail marks were made with pencil, at this scale I thought dowels would be out of scale. I didn’t plank the entire deck but only the area that would be visible so as to be economical with the supplied planks. Many kits are not very generous with these planks and I didn’t want to run short, with the age of the kit they would have been difficult to match. I later realized that this hadn’t been necessary as even with mistakes there would have been more than enough to have fully planked the deck.

Next was to make up the stern gun ports. One of the features of this kit is the use of cast gun ports that you fit prior to planking. There’s about a hundred of these and as I’ve shown they were poorly caste and difficult to get them to fit and look good, they were also not suited to have recessed ports for the lids to sit into. I decided to build in my own version which would look better. After fitting, painting and planking I thought that I’d made the right decision. I then fitted the deck beams and upright pillars, a template was provided to get the correct curvature of the above deck. The basic part of the build was coming along nicely.


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Absolutely atrocious g/port castings. Personally, I've never liked any of the often supplied metal ports & lids, & most certainly never used any, as the pile of 'em on a shelf shows! I don't believe any ship had protruding lids, they all had flush fitting ones, from what I've seen. Correct me if I'm wrong! One fact is that Victory hasn't ever had them, as some kits include.

 

[Mwentling]

Greetings, Ken, I’ve pulled up a stool and am happy following along! Glad your wife got you started again!

 

[Robboxxx]

I’m following

 

[Ken]

I’m following

Hi Robby, Thanks for joining the crew

 

[Ken]

Greetings, Ken, I’ve pulled up a stool and am happy following along! Glad your wife got you started again!

Hi, Thanks for following, what are wives for, I’ve got a good one.

 

[Ken]

Absolutely atrocious g/port castings. Personally, I've never liked any of the often supplied metal ports & lids, & most certainly never used any, as the pile of 'em on a shelf shows! I don't believe any ship had protruding lids, they all had flush fitting ones, from what I've seen. Correct me if I'm wrong! One fact is that Victory hasn't ever had them, as some kits include.

Hi Stuart, I couldn’t agreed with you more. I think that gone are the days when model companies expect you you actually make models, it might not attract the next generation of buyers who were probably brought up with piece together construction kits. They like the models but don’t have the time or inclination to learn skills, most youngsters that I know want instant success and I think that’s what kit sellers like to offer.

 

[Ken]

I see you were able to to use the metal gunports and still preserve the evenness of the hull surface. Wonderful work, Ken!

The Amati Fine Pins because they are so thin that they won't split planks and the points are needle sharp. However, they are long but very thin and hard to pick up with your fingers. So, you pick up with a needle nose pliers and then load it into the pin pusher. If you push them in such that the head is flush or submerged in the wood, the head can be sanded off during hull sanding easily, and the heads left behond won't interfere with the second planking layer by protruding from the hull.

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Hi Kurt, Thanks again for your input. I like your nails, I have never left nails in before it’s not me, so I leave a little sticking out and remove them when done, When we do things for a while we’re sometimes very reluctant to change what we’re happy with. Ken

 

[Etwas_63]

I'm enjoying following your new project. You're working incredibly efficiently. You've just completed a stunning model, and another one is on the slipway. It's delightful.

 

[dpktraf11]

Your ship is off to a fantastic start. I will be following your build closely; the Royal Louis has been on my to-do list. I love this ship. Keep up the great work.

 

[Ken]

Your ship is off to a fantastic start. I will be following your build closely; the Royal Louis has been on my to-do list. I love this ship. Keep up the great work.

Hi, Thanks, your very welcome, don’t look too closely though when it comes to to those fiddly small detailed bits

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Ken, your ship is going to look magnificent. Your hull looks spectacular so far. Are you going for the colorful appearance below or all wood tone?


I noted this kit has the same problem that plagued my La Couronne, that being frames incorrectly located too close to gun ports. This is how a French builder dealt with that problem. His build log may offer some building ideas: LINK

 

[Tony H]

Hi Ken
I'll be following your progress very closely as I have this kit in my stash. Nearly 30 years ago it was my favourite kit and available locally, I had to get it. I'm surprised that there's so few build logs for this beautiful ship.
I was never sure about using the metal gunports they're a good way to locate the position of the ports but I never liked the way the planks joined to them and the amount of metal that has to be removed.
You're off to a great start I'm always amazed at the speed at which you progress, looking forward to the rest of the build.

Tony

 

[Ken]

Ken, your ship is going to look magnificent. Your hull looks spectacular so far. Are you going for the colorful appearance below or all wood tone?
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Hi Kurt. Thanks. I’m thinking of a colourful look, even more so than your picture, lots of reds, blues etc. not decided exactly yet but that’s what I’m thinking

Hi Ken
I'll be following your progress very closely as I have this kit in my stash. Nearly 30 years ago it was my favourite kit and available locally, I had to get it. I'm surprised that there's so few build logs for this beautiful ship.
I was never sure about using the metal gunports they're a good way to locate the position of the ports but I never liked the way the planks joined to them and the amount of metal that has to be removed.
You're off to a great start I'm always amazed at the speed at which you progress, looking forward to the rest of the build.

Tony

hi Tony. Well done on getting your Royal Louis. From what I’ve done so far I’m loving this build. When you get to see the way my ports came out I think that you’ll be confident that they can be done successfully, at least you’ll have a choice and be able to judge which method suits you. I’m glad that you’re joining me for the voyage. I to was surprised at the lack of builds for this kit but this will be another. Ken