Search results for query: blacken brass

As a novice building this kit, I agree! Your build really shows what "could be". It's inspiring, thank you for sharing!

Personally I would go for painting it, but it's really up to you, the brass doesn't look bad on this as it's not intended to be a 100% accurate representation. But be aware that brass can be tricky to paint, a lot of paints don't stick to it well. Some people chemically blacken it, which also...

By and large, I only used the plywood frame from the set. It's of good quality, except for the stern. I had to redo it because the Chinese made a mistake with the dimensions. The resin casting is not of very good quality, so I had to refine it using a Dremel and chisels. The aluminum cannons...

While I'm waiting for the magnetic stirrer (again, because the first one didn't work), I'm continuing to work on the deck. I decided to drill holes for all the inputs and outputs, but with a milling machine for precision and speed. But first, calibration. I installed the needle in the tip so...

Copper Blackening (After Galvanization, but this is also applicable to ordinary copper). I blacken with the well-known Brass Black by Birchwood Casey (new bottle design). Since it's not cheap, there are a couple of ways to use it efficiently. Option 1. Diluting the solution 1:5 or 1:10 (or...

What ho, shipmates! Been busy making tiny things. How about you? ROTF I became very frustrated with the metal working last weekend. I didn't understand why things weren't going as smoothly on the davits as they had on te railings. Now I know that I had killed my solding iron tip. So, I...

Namabiiru! On Harriet Lane's davits and on L'Orenoque's steam escape tubes (I'm just making up names for stuff ROTF ) that run parallel to the funnel I had no problem with the solder blackening. I realy think it is the particular ingredients in this solder paste. Push will have to shove come...

My experience is that brass blackener will never work on solder. An alternate approach would be to tin the entire length of your pieces before assembly, which would allow you to tack solder the joints, then use solder patina to blacken the whole thing. Patina can be found at any stained glass...

What ho, shipmates! The railing experiments continue! I decided to reduce the diameter of the posts and rails. So, the rails from the first experiment became posts and the next smallest size wire for the rails. This time I tried to clean the brass with 600 grit paper. Only moderately...

Solder paste is definitely worth the money. I keep mine in the fridge when not in use. It will last much longer that way.

What ho, shipmates! Well, I started the iron work last night! I decided to experiment and I am VERY pleased. The joints are very well bonded. I just need to remember to thoroghly clean the brass before assembly. I watched a couple of YouTubes and "discovered" solder and flux in a syringe...

Since I modeled these cannon carriages myself, I checked the fit of the barrel and the height of the quoin to ensure the barrel was level, and finally the carriage with barrel height in opening on ship…and both are as planned. My math was good! ;) You can see the brass turned barrels provided...

The little scuttle was constructed from 1/32" thick material - there are three planks that go athwart. The stove pipe was made from 5/32" copper tubing. The portion that extends from the roof was blackened using a product called Brass Ager that I found on Amazon. This is the first time I have...

Not really. Brass melts at about 1700F. Solder melts at about 400F. If you heated the brass wire it would probably cause the brass parts you want to secure to melt or change their shape.

I don't know much about the solder game myself. Let's say you're working with pieces you plan to chemically blacken, can you use brass wire for soldering the pieces together?

Thank you to everyone who has been following my progress. I feel like finishing the deck was a bit of a milestone and I can see the finish in the distance (albeit still a lot of work left). For a bit of a change, I started on the cannons. Le Coureur had 8 two pound cannons which weighed about...

Hi, Very minor update working with barrels. All four will be securely mounted below deck - planks will be left off, and placed to the sides. I will try using this new product to blacken the brass strips. I've given up on Brass Black - way too messy IMO, Has anyone tried this liquid? Regards,

Brass instead of iron cannon in the 18th century and hinges and such are prime examples. If you leave these kind of parts as brass instead of simulated iron you have indeed damned accuracy. :) But in the end it is a hobby, so do what makes you happy. Allan

For those of us that are still amateurs and novices, what types of parts do you blacken? If I get a brass part, I like to show it off by leaving the gleam and shine. Historical accuracy be damned!

Your dimensions are truly appreciated. Any photos you have of the actual interim steps would also be appreciated. Thank you again