1/400 Academy Titanic build

Just a picture of the project in its graving dock. Also, a picture of progress on the funnels. I made wire eyelets for the stays. Probably out of scale, but looks better to me than the kit molded holes. The third pic was my answer to proper looking doors. I created decals, and placed them on very thin styrene sheet. Initially, I tried using just the decals, but it did not work as well. I now know that all of the doors were not all panel doors. Another lesson learned. My next titanic, which I will be doing at some point will be far more correct, detailed and clean.

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I attached pe screens to all vent ducts prior to installation. The Flyhawk upgrade kit I’m using has quite a lot of detail parts; from turned brass bollards and photoetch, to printed resin parts and wood veneer decks. Perfect for adding realism to the Academy or Airfix kits.

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The holiday season has slowed my progress. I’m hoping to complete and install the cargo cranes and prep for railings that need to go on before rigging the funnels. So, today I created a set of rigging tools out of sewing needles and wooden dowels. Any advice on rigging or rigging tools, I would appreciate your advice.

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hi AER3393
great build so far could you please show more and how you did your wiring / lighting please
gary r
 
A great resource for understanding the type of lighting and sidelight sizes, is this : http://www.titanicmodel.net/
Actually, it is a great site for understanding much about detailing Titanic.
I assume you may be new to working with small wiring and soldering, etc. When soldering it’s best to use lower heat on your solder iron as not to weaken the wires also, using electrical solder is Very important as well. A lot of people use fiber optics throughout to light portholes etc. On my Titanic, I used strips of LED to light the hull sidelights and general lighting of the windows . For Smaller lights, such as the deck lamps that I drilled out on the boat deck, running lights, mast light, and lights on the deck cargo cranes I used fiber optics. These were bundled together with shrink tubing attached to individual LED bulbs. To light the ceilings on B deck, I used pico lights, which are much smaller than a pin head. Very important that you use warm white bulbs for that yellowish glow as Titanic used Edison bulbs and had a very low light profile. Also, to bring a more balanced light throughout the windows of the ship I diffuse the light in the strip with a translucent film I obtained from a company called Stage Lighting. Again, the information source I gave you early in this post has great information for product sourcing as well, albeit they were acquired many years ago they are still good for the most part. A good source for lighting is Evans designs. They have great customer service department that will help you with any questions you have about their products and how to apply them. One more thing, plan ahead before you lay out your lighting and label your bundles for reference, as invariably a short will occur. I suggest you use a central “hub” to plug your bundles into before running them to the power source.
I hope I have answered your questions. If you need any more information I’ll be glad to help you Gary.
Happy modeling and Happy New Year!!!
 
Finished assembling the Wellin Davit bases and bending the Davit arms tonight. Not sure if I should attach the arms before placing them on the ship. Guess I will have to do some test fitting to make sure that the lifeboats are going to lineup to the davits correctly.

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Latest update. I’ve completed application of the deck benches, railings, lifeboats and davits( but not the falls yet, there were issues I need to work out), brass masts and rigging. I have the Marconi array to finish and a few more bits to complete, like the falls, applying the scratch built Trotman anchors and decals. I made deck chairs and have some passengers to add, perhaps.

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