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- Feb 18, 2019
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Gilles...
You mentioned using hot glue on the station molds ( formers; bulkheads; whatever...). I’m wondering if the inherent stickiness or consistency of the hot glue will affect the elevation of the formers. ?? Seems like it might affect the arc, or shape of the hull if one or more of the formers were held up some amount more than others.??
I like the idea of hot glue though.... I could adjust the rocker.
Gilles,
Question about your comments on vertical spacers to keep station molds straight on page 10 of guide.
But if spacing of station molds are at 1 1/8" and in your example the molds are 1/8" then wouldn't the spacers be only 1" wide??
I THOUGHT THE SPCING WAS CHANGED TO 1 AND 1/4 INCHES INSTEAD OF 1 AND 1/8 INCHES. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE ALL DON
Everyone was notified on June 19th by private message.Good to know of changes.
Are you thing of updating build guide?
HI GILLES A QUICK QUESTION CAN I USE BEES WAX AGAINST FORMERS FOR EASY REMOVAL. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE YOU AND YOURS DON
I need some guidance on using plastic hot glue. My little gun produces small globs which are cooling too fast to smooth out. Too many of my forms were too high off of the build board and others came loose. To solve that, at least for this canoe, I fell back to Titebond which will be a removal challenge I know. What dispenser / product are you using, not to mention your years of experience with this adhesive. PT-2Last night while trying to figure out a good way to show that using hot glue was convenient in assembling the strongback, I came up with an idea...
Well! The result, slight change in plan (literally)...
This 17-inch model is going to be made to look different: although, except for the stems, all other patterns are the ones I traditionally use; the ones included in the guide.
This said, it is only a simple , easy to do modification of the basic stem pattern.
But the hot glue allowed me to switch stem-pieces with no problem at all. All that was needed was a very sharp blade to cut the joint between the building base and the stem-pieces. once the joint was cut, the stem was moved back and forth from station 7 a few times and it easily came apart. The glue remnants were then removed / peeled off from the baseboard and stations 7.
And the new stem-pieces were set in place: the canoe will look different...
View attachment 161635
G.
I need some guidance on using plastic hot glue. My little gun produces small globs which are cooling too fast to smooth out. Too many of my forms were too high off of the build board and others came loose. To solve that, at least for this canoe, I fell back to Titebond which will be a removal challenge I know. What dispenser / product are you using, not to mention your years of experience with this adhesive. PT-2
Thanks. My glue sticks, 5 x 12 mm), and gun are at least 30 years old. Don't know if that is a problem but the gun was turned on for about 15 minutes before using it. I'll try again as an experiment and have a cup of Joe while cruising SoS for half an hour to see what happens. PT-2Not sure what the answer is except that you have to wait for the gun to fully heat up: I am sure you are aware of that.
The gun I use allows me to run a tiny bead of glue along the 3/32" thickness of the station without any problem but it needs to be supper hot.
You know the gun is ready when the glue comes out smoothly as you push the trigger. Before it is ready/ hot, the trigger is hard to push and the glue comes out in "blobs".
I use the small hot glue sticks: 6 or 7 mm diameter.
G