#2 Support: Building base (strongback)

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Here we will address:
The first step in the construction: Assembling the building base after cutting station-molds.

010 assembly copy.jpg
 
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The station molds have been cut, their location has been referenced on the building base.
Once glued in place (I use hot glue), the assembly (the strongback) should look like this:
- for the 19" model: 1 x #1 station, 2 x #2 stations, 2 x #3, 2 x #4, 2 x #5, 2 x #6, 2 x #7 stations and 2 x stem molds at the ends.
- for the 17" (+- 440 mm) model shown here: 1 x #2 stations, 2 x #3, 2 x #4, 2 x #5, 2 x #6, 2 x #7 stations and 2 x stem molds at the ends.

_DSC0701 copy.jpg

Now a portion of the stem pieces need to be beveled.

stem bevel.jpg

The thickness to the station mold and stem pieces being 3/32" (2.5 mm) the bevel should produce an end thickness of approximately 1/32" (0.8 mm): area marked with a pencil line in the image above.

And here it what it looks like with dry fitted first test plank on either side:

_DSC0735 copy.jpg

_DSC0728 copy.jpg

G
 
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Gilles...
You mentioned using hot glue on the station molds ( formers; bulkheads; whatever...). I’m wondering if the inherent stickiness or consistency of the hot glue will affect the elevation of the formers. ?? Seems like it might affect the arc, or shape of the hull if one or more of the formers were held up some amount more than others.??
I like the idea of hot glue though.... I could adjust the rocker.;)
 
Gilles...
You mentioned using hot glue on the station molds ( formers; bulkheads; whatever...). I’m wondering if the inherent stickiness or consistency of the hot glue will affect the elevation of the formers. ?? Seems like it might affect the arc, or shape of the hull if one or more of the formers were held up some amount more than others.??
I like the idea of hot glue though.... I could adjust the rocker.;)

Using hot glue:
To avoid raising some of the individual station mold, only apply a very small amount, only a thin film along the base of the pattern, press firmly in place.... and one needs to be consistent with the application: avoid "blobs".
You can still use a square to verify the vertical position, just leave a small portion free of glue in the center of the station mold, but be quick.

_DSC0767.jpg

I should also mention that it is also a matter of scale.

_DSC0770.jpg

Besides that, the glue dries very, very quickly, not much time (if any) for adjustment. If you make a mistake, the station mold can be cleanly removed with a sharp blade, the glue remnants can be peeled off the building base and the same is true for the station mold, but by being extra careful.
If the application is consistent through all the station molds, everything should be leveled,


Of course one can use other types of glue.


G.
 
Something that some builders may find important when building the strongback.
Please read:
Here is a post related to protecting the station molds from accidental gluing to the planking:
G
 
Gilles,

Question about your comments on vertical spacers to keep station molds straight on page 10 of guide.

You say
"In order to keep the station molds square to the reference lines,
you may use vertical spacers between them: their dimension
would be 1 1/8”, but I would not go full height, just enough to
lock the station molds in place, as it would cause issues when
the canoe is removed from the strongback."

But if spacing of station molds are at 1 1/8" and in your example the molds are 1/8" then wouldn't the spacers be only 1" wide??
 
Gilles,
Question about your comments on vertical spacers to keep station molds straight on page 10 of guide.
But if spacing of station molds are at 1 1/8" and in your example the molds are 1/8" then wouldn't the spacers be only 1" wide??
I THOUGHT THE SPCING WAS CHANGED TO 1 AND 1/4 INCHES INSTEAD OF 1 AND 1/8 INCHES. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE ALL DON

Because the space between the station molds was updated to be 1 and 1/4", Don wins (is right)!
The spacers would have to fit in the space left between the station molds, keeping in mind that the "net"space between the center station (1 for the 19" and 2 for the 17" canoe) and the next station is larger than the space between all other station: because the center station is sitting right over the line and the others are sitting against the line (on the outside of the line).
Keep in mind that these spacer are not indispensable.
Regards.
G
 
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HI GILLES A QUICK QUESTION CAN I USE BEES WAX AGAINST FORMERS FOR EASY REMOVAL. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE YOU AND YOURS DON

You sure can.
This said, if you are using basswood for your station molds, they will still be fairly easy to remove as the basswood will break-off easy.
For the builders using plywood, it is a bit more difficult as the station molds are stiffer.
G
 
Last night while trying to figure out a good way to show that using hot glue was convenient in assembling the strongback, I came up with an idea...
Well! The result, slight change in plan (literally)...
This 17-inch model is going to be made to look different: although, except for the stems, all other patterns are the ones I traditionally use; the ones included in the guide.
This said, it is only a simple , easy to do modification of the basic stem pattern.
But the hot glue allowed me to switch stem-pieces with no problem at all. All that was needed was a very sharp blade to cut the joint between the building base and the stem-pieces. once the joint was cut, the stem was moved back and forth from station 7 a few times and it easily came apart. The glue remnants were then removed / peeled off from the baseboard and stations 7.
And the new stem-pieces were set in place: the canoe will look different...

View attachment 161635

G.
I need some guidance on using plastic hot glue. My little gun produces small globs which are cooling too fast to smooth out. Too many of my forms were too high off of the build board and others came loose. To solve that, at least for this canoe, I fell back to Titebond which will be a removal challenge I know. What dispenser / product are you using, not to mention your years of experience with this adhesive. PT-2
 
I need some guidance on using plastic hot glue. My little gun produces small globs which are cooling too fast to smooth out. Too many of my forms were too high off of the build board and others came loose. To solve that, at least for this canoe, I fell back to Titebond which will be a removal challenge I know. What dispenser / product are you using, not to mention your years of experience with this adhesive. PT-2

Not sure what the answer is except that you have to wait for the gun to fully heat up: I am sure you are aware of that.
The gun I use allows me to run a tiny bead of glue along the 3/32" thickness of the station without any problem but it needs to be supper hot.
You know the gun is ready when the glue comes out smoothly as you push the trigger. Before it is ready/ hot, the trigger is hard to push and the glue comes out in "blobs".

I use the small hot glue sticks: 6 or 7 mm diameter.

G
 
After I thought about this a while back, and discussing with Gilles, I purchased a small tube of silicone ‘stuff’ designed for around kitchen and bathroom sinks. It works great.!! You don’t need a big caulking gun size.!!
This stuff sticks pretty good and shouldn’t turn loose accidentally. It’s a little on the flexible side, but I put little spacers between the stations and everything is pretty solid.
When it’s time, your Exacto blade will cut it loose from the base easily. Problem solved.!!
 
Not sure what the answer is except that you have to wait for the gun to fully heat up: I am sure you are aware of that.
The gun I use allows me to run a tiny bead of glue along the 3/32" thickness of the station without any problem but it needs to be supper hot.
You know the gun is ready when the glue comes out smoothly as you push the trigger. Before it is ready/ hot, the trigger is hard to push and the glue comes out in "blobs".

I use the small hot glue sticks: 6 or 7 mm diameter.

G
Thanks. My glue sticks, 5 x 12 mm), and gun are at least 30 years old. Don't know if that is a problem but the gun was turned on for about 15 minutes before using it. I'll try again as an experiment and have a cup of Joe while cruising SoS for half an hour to see what happens. PT-2
 
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