Seats
The seat for the canoe can be made entirely out of wood. Another way is to cut or build a frame complemented with woven thread.
The seat I include in my canoes have been a combination of a wood frame and woven thread. As far as the frame is concerned, I tend to normally make the frame out of 1 piece of lumber cut from 3/32” (2.5 mm) thick sheet wood. In some cases, I may even laminate 2 – 1/16” piece together to strengthen it as they sometimes curve under the tension of the thread.
But for this demonstration, I decided to actually build the frame from strips 3/32 x 3/32” (2.5 x 25 mm). You will note that when cutting the strips to lock into each other, I did not cut a half-lap notch: and I will explain the reason why as I get into the weaving part of making the seat.
Using a one-piece frame or a built up frame is mainly subject to the kind of lumber used. I have tried a number of species with some success: cherry, maple, birch, black walnut, mahogany and for every 2 or 3 frames built at least on of them would severely curve / bend or even brake due to some tension build-up while weaving the thread. Cutting, assembling the frame takes time and so does the weaving: so when a frame become unusable half way through the weaving process is kind of disappointing. This said, building the frame would end up being more realistic so it may be worth it.
Making the seat: my method.
As always, this is the way I make them, it is just my way, it is not the only way to make them and certainly not the best way.
The frame either cut from one piece or built up.
In this case built up from pear wood: 3/32 x 3/32” (2.5 x 2.5 mm). The parts are glued together with wood glue. I have also included a nail right through the corners at the joints.
So when the seat frame is assembled, the glue is dry, it is time to begin the weaving process.
The thread is tied by a knot in the top left corner. holding the frame facing the top of the seat, the thread is wrapped twice around the frame's top / cross batten (the longer one): starting the wrap from the back / bottom side of the seat, ending the 2 wraps on the back side so that the thread continues towards the other cross batten from the back as well. The thread is then wrapped 2 turns around the lower batten before running back to the opposite batten. Wrapping then continues all the way to the end of each cross batten in the same way.
The end result, the thread should run 2 turns around the top batten, straight down to the back of the lower batten where it is also wrapped 2 turns before traveling forward up to the front of the top batten again. The same is repeated to the end of both cross battens to complete laying down the thread for the first step in the weave.
The top face of the seat
The back
As mentioned at the start of this post, the frame was assembled with half-lap joints: although not quite. in fact the shorter battens are slightly recessed (set lower than the longer batten) into the frame.
This is due to trying to ease the tension from the actual weave. It also eases passing the needle over and under the thread already laid: well, at least I like to believe it does....
So, to begin the cross weave: the thread is wrapped 2 turns around the first batten, again having the thread running from one batten to the next from the back so that the end of the 2 wraps ends on the top face of the seat.
From there, the tread runs over / under each thread already laid, then is wrapped 3 times before running over the top and straight down the back toward the lower batten where is wrapped 3 times around before being thread under / over the cross threads. the process is repeated over the length of the battens to end on the other side of the seat.
The back side view...
The thread through using a needle...
A short video showing the process of straightening the thread after the over / under threading...
View attachment 20200902_150715.mp4
This seat is done ... just need to complete the wood work by trimming the extra batten length...... but what to do .....
I often use close-up photos or at least close-up view through my phone for quality control.
if it stands up in close-up view it looks good at naked eye.
And here is something I did not notice until I looked at the photo:
So does it need to be redone? Knowing how much it took to get to this point on that seat.
Anyways, now back to work on another one...
G.