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Win a Free Custom Engraved Brass Coin!!!
As a way to introduce our brass coins to the community, we will raffle off a free coin during the month of August. Follow link ABOVE for instructions for entering.
Thank you for your interest @GIG1810.
@pugwash: does that mean that you can see them right away. I can't remember what your preference was. Sorry for that. I usually make pictures with my phone and make them smaller for forum use, which creates the png. file. Was that the one you could see or the bigger ones, which are jpg. Modern techniques... sigh.
@pugwash: does that mean that you can see them right away. I can't remember what your preference was. Sorry for that. I usually make pictures with my phone and make them smaller for forum use, which creates the png. file. Was that the one you could see or the bigger ones, which are jpg. Modern techniques... sigh.
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2018
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Thank you for your consideration, Ab.
Indeed my preference is jpeg files.
I do like to save to my files projects that interest me.
I know there are software conversions available, but I find that to be too much of a 'faff' for me.
Wow Ab,
This is really something new, never considered this would be possible with card. Love it.
This is really something new, never considered this would be possible with card. Love it.
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2018
- Messages
- 847
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- 403
Really wonderful progres Ab. Paper is not my material. But I think it is possible to copy your method to wood or styrene and build the model in a small scale.
It's a pitty that this years exhibition in Amsterdam and the yearly meeting of the Arbeitskreis are on the same date.
But perhaps I can see your lovely model next year in reality.
It's a pitty that this years exhibition in Amsterdam and the yearly meeting of the Arbeitskreis are on the same date.
But perhaps I can see your lovely model next year in reality.
Thank you @pugwash, @Rebus, @Maarten and @AnobiumPunctatum.
@pugwash: I will send you my jpg.files separately.
Much progress over the last fortnight.
I removed the upper deck without damage and did the necessary details on the lower deck, like the (double) bitts, the gratings and the capstans. They will hardly be visible in the end, but it is always good to know they are there.
I also tried to squeeze the model back into shape with a few sticks tied and twisted with an end of wire. It looked good, but with hindsight the mounting of the upper deck brought back the too wide sides. A failure.
I treated the underwater part with shellac first so that it could be sanded easily to get rid of some fluff. I'm not sure about the color though. In the back of my mind it should be a bit lighter than it turned out to be. Still it's the same paint. Maybe I just have to get used to it.
The mounting of the upper deck was a nice experience. I decided to split the deck into two halves, which could be mounted one by one. Because of the deck beams I had to roughly take down part of the deck supports I had created around the masts. No problems, nothing of them will be visible in the end result. The seam was covered by the 'planking', a sheet of prepared and painted paper. It all fitted to a T, but as I mentioned the deck turned out to be 2 mm too wide. Not something to lie awake at night, but still...
The capstan on the lower deck continued at the upper deck. The other decks were quite straightforward to model and mount.
at the
What rests are all the decorations for the bulkheads, the beak head and the sides, the dead-eyes, the lanterns and the lids of the gun ports. Nothing to get nervous about.
What I do am nervous about is the gilding. As I told before I used gold paint so far, but I intend to add real gold leave. There was very little left from what I usually have in stock, so I went looking for a new booklet of 25 sheets. Expensive stuff (about 80 Euros), but at some Chinese site I spotted a package of 100 gold leaves for just 12 Euros! Too good to be true of course and indeed, when it arrived I did not like the tone of the color at all. I don't know what they mixed the gold with, but it is too flat and shiny for my purposes. I'm afraid it will make the model look cheap. Still I want to give it a (test)try, because I might tone it down a bit with some transparent paint, but the looks of the material make me shiver... Look for yourself, to the left the real gold, to the right the Chinese 'gold'.
In the end we can conclude that it is indeed possible to build 1/200 scale dockyard model from card.
@pugwash: I will send you my jpg.files separately.
Much progress over the last fortnight.
I removed the upper deck without damage and did the necessary details on the lower deck, like the (double) bitts, the gratings and the capstans. They will hardly be visible in the end, but it is always good to know they are there.
I also tried to squeeze the model back into shape with a few sticks tied and twisted with an end of wire. It looked good, but with hindsight the mounting of the upper deck brought back the too wide sides. A failure.
I treated the underwater part with shellac first so that it could be sanded easily to get rid of some fluff. I'm not sure about the color though. In the back of my mind it should be a bit lighter than it turned out to be. Still it's the same paint. Maybe I just have to get used to it.
The mounting of the upper deck was a nice experience. I decided to split the deck into two halves, which could be mounted one by one. Because of the deck beams I had to roughly take down part of the deck supports I had created around the masts. No problems, nothing of them will be visible in the end result. The seam was covered by the 'planking', a sheet of prepared and painted paper. It all fitted to a T, but as I mentioned the deck turned out to be 2 mm too wide. Not something to lie awake at night, but still...
The capstan on the lower deck continued at the upper deck. The other decks were quite straightforward to model and mount.
at theWhat rests are all the decorations for the bulkheads, the beak head and the sides, the dead-eyes, the lanterns and the lids of the gun ports. Nothing to get nervous about.
What I do am nervous about is the gilding. As I told before I used gold paint so far, but I intend to add real gold leave. There was very little left from what I usually have in stock, so I went looking for a new booklet of 25 sheets. Expensive stuff (about 80 Euros), but at some Chinese site I spotted a package of 100 gold leaves for just 12 Euros! Too good to be true of course and indeed, when it arrived I did not like the tone of the color at all. I don't know what they mixed the gold with, but it is too flat and shiny for my purposes. I'm afraid it will make the model look cheap. Still I want to give it a (test)try, because I might tone it down a bit with some transparent paint, but the looks of the material make me shiver... Look for yourself, to the left the real gold, to the right the Chinese 'gold'.
In the end we can conclude that it is indeed possible to build 1/200 scale dockyard model from card.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2022
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- 308
Ahoy,
I think you did a really good job. I wouldn't have thought it would work. Great work. Yes, the gold is one of those things. I think you have to pay a little extra for gold leaf, otherwise you won't get a good result. Did you also buy the fixing milk so that the gold leaf holds properly?
I think you did a really good job. I wouldn't have thought it would work. Great work. Yes, the gold is one of those things. I think you have to pay a little extra for gold leaf, otherwise you won't get a good result. Did you also buy the fixing milk so that the gold leaf holds properly?
Almost finished. Slow progress. It seems that the smaller the object, the more time consuming it gets. But we're coming to an end. The lanters are made of some pearls from my wife's necklace. Maybe she does not notice some have gone...
I decided not to use pure gold for the decorations. Tests showed that the result is that some parts of the model scream: 'GOLD' and the rest seems dull in comparison I think this gold paint is more modest and good enough. Maybe a small touch up here and there with some brighter paint will do the job just as well.
I adjusted the size of the stands. The former were too big, even though they were the second ones I made. I hope this fits better.
Still much work to do on the dead-eyes and the gunport lids.
If you are in doubt about the size of the model, maybe this gives an image:
Hope to see you next time.
I decided not to use pure gold for the decorations. Tests showed that the result is that some parts of the model scream: 'GOLD' and the rest seems dull in comparison I think this gold paint is more modest and good enough. Maybe a small touch up here and there with some brighter paint will do the job just as well.
I adjusted the size of the stands. The former were too big, even though they were the second ones I made. I hope this fits better.
Still much work to do on the dead-eyes and the gunport lids.
If you are in doubt about the size of the model, maybe this gives an image:
Hope to see you next time.
Nice progress, Ab.
And indeed: The scale of the model is 'inversely proportional' to the time required to make it (a ~ 1 / b).
Regards, Peter
Outstanding result.
I keep coming back to this thread as the model is so beautiful.
Agreed about the gold. We must always remember that when we view a model, (especially a very small scale one), we are seeing it as it would appear at a distance, so colour and brightness would be reduced by the inverse square law. Thus the more muted gold looks much better.
Agreed about the gold. We must always remember that when we view a model, (especially a very small scale one), we are seeing it as it would appear at a distance, so colour and brightness would be reduced by the inverse square law. Thus the more muted gold looks much better.
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2024
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Pfff. It is indeed about mastering the materials and the tools. Well, you are top of the class.
Thank you @Peter Voogt, @RichardG and @Marquinius for your kind words.
@RichardG: I must admit that dockyard models of English ships have a certain luxurious and flamboyant look in comparison to the much more sober and sometimes a bit more hulking Dutch vessels. But I still prefer the latter.
@RichardG: I must admit that dockyard models of English ships have a certain luxurious and flamboyant look in comparison to the much more sober and sometimes a bit more hulking Dutch vessels. But I still prefer the latter.
None to shabby the Dutch ships. Remember the raid on the Medway (My home port), June 1667 :-(
Awesome use of cardboard! You show outstanding skills of detail building and coloring! As I recently discovered cardboard as a nice model builidng material too and as I am a RC Model builder, I'll try to use some of your tecniques for water going models. For easy flat plate shaped models it already works.
Yesterday I finished the dockyard model of the Sussex, 2 1/2 months after I started. It was a nice experience. English shipbuilding is a challenge for me, as I know next to nothing of it, but in t his case I just had to imitate McArdles's example. It was fun. Perhaps Emiel will make better pictures if the spirit comes over him.
What will be next?
What will be next?
Exquisite!
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2024
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Astounding work. Absolutely astounding.
Given that (most) paper and card has a basis in “wood” then it also holds true to the material of the prototype. It certainly gives a new perspective on the term ‘cardboard engineering’ that I use whenever I hack out a box from corrugated sheet.
And all done in a mere ten weeks elapsed time. May I ask you to speculate on how many actual hours it took?
Jim
Given that (most) paper and card has a basis in “wood” then it also holds true to the material of the prototype. It certainly gives a new perspective on the term ‘cardboard engineering’ that I use whenever I hack out a box from corrugated sheet.
And all done in a mere ten weeks elapsed time. May I ask you to speculate on how many actual hours it took?
Jim