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Thank you @Namabiiru, @Jim Fortnam and @pugwash for your kind comment.
@Jim Fortnam: I did not make notes, but I would be very surprised if it took me more than 250 hours in all to finish the model, mistakes and problem solving included.
@Jim Fortnam: I did not make notes, but I would be very surprised if it took me more than 250 hours in all to finish the model, mistakes and problem solving included.
Wonderful work. Just keeps on giving.
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Congrats! Good job well done.
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It's unbelievable that the model is made from paper. Really wonderful
Awesome work!
Again, thank you for all the positive comments and the likes.
In the mean time I started another dockyard model, the Mordaunt, from Richard Endsor's book The shipbuilder's secrets. The lower hull and the ship"s sides were finished in two weeks time, but I am not completely satisfied with the bow. If it all works out in the end I will surely let you know.
Odd scale: 1/4 of the original dockyard model: 1/192.
In the mean time I started another dockyard model, the Mordaunt, from Richard Endsor's book The shipbuilder's secrets. The lower hull and the ship"s sides were finished in two weeks time, but I am not completely satisfied with the bow. If it all works out in the end I will surely let you know.
Odd scale: 1/4 of the original dockyard model: 1/192.
You do excellent work. Will watch.
Hi Alex,
Carvings on a 1/200 scale model are a relative concept. It is obvious that carving in wood is impossible. It is also nearly impossible to make carvings that really picture recognizable images. It's all fake. I use several materials to suggest the gingerbread carvings: 2-components stuff like Magic Sculpt or Miliput, or small threads of paper or gesso. The last can be made in little doses with a mixture of chalk, white glue and acrilic paint in the color you choose. Small blobs are added to the locations where they are needed, until sufficient volume is reached. Finally some 'sculpting' can be done with round and sharp bamboo sticks or something like that. It works both for relief work and for free standing statues. It's a matter of bluff. You don't have to create real carvings, they only have to look like them.
That's all I can say about it. I'm not particularly good in it, but it's a technique that can be learned.
By the way: how would you produce carvings with a 3D printer?
Carvings on a 1/200 scale model are a relative concept. It is obvious that carving in wood is impossible. It is also nearly impossible to make carvings that really picture recognizable images. It's all fake. I use several materials to suggest the gingerbread carvings: 2-components stuff like Magic Sculpt or Miliput, or small threads of paper or gesso. The last can be made in little doses with a mixture of chalk, white glue and acrilic paint in the color you choose. Small blobs are added to the locations where they are needed, until sufficient volume is reached. Finally some 'sculpting' can be done with round and sharp bamboo sticks or something like that. It works both for relief work and for free standing statues. It's a matter of bluff. You don't have to create real carvings, they only have to look like them.
That's all I can say about it. I'm not particularly good in it, but it's a technique that can be learned.
By the way: how would you produce carvings with a 3D printer?
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Hi Ab,
that's what I wanted to hear. I recently read a book about navy board models and the author used thread, wire and tissue to "sculpt". It's always a bluff but it works. To answer your question: I think about buying a 3D printer to produce something like the ornaments around the gun ports. Things that repeat. I learned that at the "Texel-diorama" figureheads and repeating ornaments were made of Raisin.
I'll see. It's just an idea...
that's what I wanted to hear. I recently read a book about navy board models and the author used thread, wire and tissue to "sculpt". It's always a bluff but it works. To answer your question: I think about buying a 3D printer to produce something like the ornaments around the gun ports. Things that repeat. I learned that at the "Texel-diorama" figureheads and repeating ornaments were made of Raisin.
I'll see. It's just an idea...
If you want to make identical objects, use blue stuff. Search the internet. Much cheaper than a printer.
It has been a while since my latest posting. In case you thought I was out of business, well, I am not. I just forgot to anchor what I was building, so there was not much to tell.
In fact I am working on two models at the moment. The Sussex I showed earlier in this thread was a third rate man-of-war. The Mordaunt however, my second try, was a fourth rate and therefore smaller than Sussex. I found the necessary drawings in Richard Endsor's magnificent book The Master Shipwright's Secrets. Here is to what it has come to so far:
The model is not finished. Apart from the beak head, all the details like stairs, bitts, deadeyes, gunport lids and lanterns will have to be done. The stand is also a temporary one, just a left-over from my previous efforts with the Sussex. I could have finished it (and I certainly will later), but suddenly I felt inspiration to do a next-level experiment: I wanted to build an open dockyard model. So I did. This is the Tyger, actually a rebuild of the Mordaunt, both in open and in closed condition.
As you can see I have a small problem here: I ran out of my stock of card of the right consistency and thickness. I know my colleague at the Rijkmuseum is working hard on gathering new material for me, but it takes some time, so I will have to be patient before I will have the opportunity to build the larboard half of the frames below deck level. Apart from that I will have to do the stern, both in the sides and above the transom, not to mention the usual details I mentioned concerning the Mordaunt.
In case you are having problems with the size of the model (scale roughly 1/200), this picture might help:
In case you prefer jpg. images above these ones, I regrettably failed to make them. It took me hours trying, but the matter is recalcitrant, like most things I try on computers. Sorry.
Hope to see you next time.
In fact I am working on two models at the moment. The Sussex I showed earlier in this thread was a third rate man-of-war. The Mordaunt however, my second try, was a fourth rate and therefore smaller than Sussex. I found the necessary drawings in Richard Endsor's magnificent book The Master Shipwright's Secrets. Here is to what it has come to so far:
The model is not finished. Apart from the beak head, all the details like stairs, bitts, deadeyes, gunport lids and lanterns will have to be done. The stand is also a temporary one, just a left-over from my previous efforts with the Sussex. I could have finished it (and I certainly will later), but suddenly I felt inspiration to do a next-level experiment: I wanted to build an open dockyard model. So I did. This is the Tyger, actually a rebuild of the Mordaunt, both in open and in closed condition.
As you can see I have a small problem here: I ran out of my stock of card of the right consistency and thickness. I know my colleague at the Rijkmuseum is working hard on gathering new material for me, but it takes some time, so I will have to be patient before I will have the opportunity to build the larboard half of the frames below deck level. Apart from that I will have to do the stern, both in the sides and above the transom, not to mention the usual details I mentioned concerning the Mordaunt.
In case you are having problems with the size of the model (scale roughly 1/200), this picture might help:
In case you prefer jpg. images above these ones, I regrettably failed to make them. It took me hours trying, but the matter is recalcitrant, like most things I try on computers. Sorry.
Hope to see you next time.
That looks great, Ab. My respect to do this on this scale!
Now you owned the HCSA (Half-Cut Saw Association) membership!
Regards, Peter
Never heard of Peter, but it feels great!
It was erected after Uwe @Uwek, following Maarten @Maarten and myself, also split the hull of his model into two parts.
HMS GRANADO - full hull - POF kit by CAF in 1:48 - by Uwe
Dear Uwe, I have to commend you on your dedication. That seems like an awful lot of work (with inherent risk) for something that is barely visible. Subtlety is certainly the name of the game here - except for when you have a saw in hand! :) Heinrich, He's not SO subtle with the saw...his...
shipsofscale.com
So, you are in good company.
Regards, Peter
Without doubt. But does it count when no saw is used?
We've become a bit more flexible in terms of definitions.
My Balder consists of two halfs, but hasn't seen a saw either. But I was already a member thanks to my Bluenose.
