you might try a scalpel. a good 10 pack on amazon is not expensive (and they don't roll off the table)
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a tiny saw to cut out parts drawn on sheets?
- Thread starter inheritedwoodenkits
- Start date
- Watchers 17
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Ryobi makes a nice "Exacto Style" cutting knife, the one I got had triangle shaped handle which keeps it in place and easy blade replacement. It is sold in two pack, as you seem to always mis-place one!
With apologies for the "thread drift:"
As for hobby knives "rolling off the workbench," which, if the comments are any indication, seems to be a vexing problem for many. Often, the simplest solutions are the best. The least sophisticated solution is simply wrapping a rubber band around and around the tail end of the round knife handle. This raises the end and prevents rolling. If you want to get a bit "neater," wrap masking or electrical tape over the end of the handle to build the diameter up enough to raise it a bit.
If you really want to get "salty," you can also work a nice Turk's head or other fancy knot work around the handle of a hobby knife, or any other tool, to prevent rolling and/or provide custom grip. In the Age of Sail, sailors routinely served the handles of their tools with fancy work not only to provide a secure grip on tools that often were used when wet and were wicked dangerous if dropped from aloft, but also to serve as a "walking resume" of the owner's trade skills.
Time to dust off your copy of Ashley's, grab a ball of cod line, and get to work!
The Ashley Book of Knots and/or Hensel and Graumont's The Encyclopedia of Knots and Fancy Ropework are "must haves" on any serious sailing ship modeler's library shelves. Ashley's is the easier of the two to follow for novices. Ashley organizes his knots by their purposes and the trades in which they are used. Hensel and Graumont is a more academic work that is organized by the basic mechanics of each type of knot, followed by all its derivative variations. These are the two "absolute last word" reference works on all things "rope." Either will provide all a ship modeler needs on rigging and sails.
(Below) A professional sailing ship rigger of my acquaintance, Jaime White's rigger's belt and kit holding canvas pricker, marlinespike, and rigger's knife (with angled handle to permit cleanly chopping thick rope by striking the back of the blade with a mallet.) The small cup is for holding lubricating tallow. (See: https://thesquarerigger.com/about_me.html)
(Below) An example of Jamie's work on a tiller handle.
(Below) Jaime with a hand-worked standing rigging eye worth saving to document the way it used to be done.
As for hobby knives "rolling off the workbench," which, if the comments are any indication, seems to be a vexing problem for many. Often, the simplest solutions are the best. The least sophisticated solution is simply wrapping a rubber band around and around the tail end of the round knife handle. This raises the end and prevents rolling. If you want to get a bit "neater," wrap masking or electrical tape over the end of the handle to build the diameter up enough to raise it a bit.
If you really want to get "salty," you can also work a nice Turk's head or other fancy knot work around the handle of a hobby knife, or any other tool, to prevent rolling and/or provide custom grip. In the Age of Sail, sailors routinely served the handles of their tools with fancy work not only to provide a secure grip on tools that often were used when wet and were wicked dangerous if dropped from aloft, but also to serve as a "walking resume" of the owner's trade skills.
Time to dust off your copy of Ashley's, grab a ball of cod line, and get to work!
The Ashley Book of Knots and/or Hensel and Graumont's The Encyclopedia of Knots and Fancy Ropework are "must haves" on any serious sailing ship modeler's library shelves. Ashley's is the easier of the two to follow for novices. Ashley organizes his knots by their purposes and the trades in which they are used. Hensel and Graumont is a more academic work that is organized by the basic mechanics of each type of knot, followed by all its derivative variations. These are the two "absolute last word" reference works on all things "rope." Either will provide all a ship modeler needs on rigging and sails.
(Below) A professional sailing ship rigger of my acquaintance, Jaime White's rigger's belt and kit holding canvas pricker, marlinespike, and rigger's knife (with angled handle to permit cleanly chopping thick rope by striking the back of the blade with a mallet.) The small cup is for holding lubricating tallow. (See: https://thesquarerigger.com/about_me.html)
(Below) An example of Jamie's work on a tiller handle.
(Below) Jaime with a hand-worked standing rigging eye worth saving to document the way it used to be done.
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zona saws are very thin and fast cutting. ive used them for guitar building n fret work n cutting inlays
they have a nice assortment of saws...
edit...
i found they sell replacement blades here...
Amazon.com: ZONA - SA35/450 Zona 35-450 Saber Saw Set with Three Interchangable Blades, 36-458, 36-408, 36-406
Amazon.com: ZONA - SA35/450 Zona 35-450 Saber Saw Set with Three Interchangable Blades, 36-458, 36-408, 36-406
www.amazon.com
they have a nice assortment of saws...
edit...
i found they sell replacement blades here...
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I've used Zona saws since back when I was flying RC planes 30+ years ago.
Still use them.
Still use them.
A good scroll saw is expensive and unless it is well set up and maintained could wander and jump about making the cutting of small pieces difficult.
Jewellers coping saw is the simplest option. Faster to use than you might expect and highly controllable, with a little practise.
If you can draft in CAD, then the other easiest option is laser. An inexpensive 5W laser will cut thin pieces of most hardwoods used for ship modelling.
Jewellers coping saw is the simplest option. Faster to use than you might expect and highly controllable, with a little practise.
If you can draft in CAD, then the other easiest option is laser. An inexpensive 5W laser will cut thin pieces of most hardwoods used for ship modelling.
This thing......
These machines are a great leap forward and are rapidly coming down in price. They do admit a lot of smoke, which is probably toxic while they are cutting. These machines should be used outdoors or in an open garage. Alternately you can purchase an enclosed using and duct the smoke outside. There are many you tube videos that go into great detail about using these.
Rob