I'm 74. Have been modeling since 1959. Never used an air brush. I moved in to a new house and my goods arrive today. Now I am assembling a model workroom-from scratch. The room I chose has a large openable window. Which air brush set up is best Mfgr? model?, and can be upgraded as skill increases? Cost? That depends because good work starts with good equipment.
I have a Revell compressor / gun and it has served me well over the years and I have only had to replace two tiny O rings. I agree that good equipment is important, but the key to airbrushing is practice, practice, practice. It is a matter of considering the fluid to be used, spray density, distance and compressor pressure. I might sound like I know what I am talking about, but I still sometimes get it wrong. There are some good videos on YouTube which might help you make your decision. Regards. .
Appreciate the info-especially from a modeller who admits errors. That's where I learn best. I have plenty of models to practice on. Maube I'll look at Micro Mark and Model Shipways.....
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I, too, am no expert, but I try to research as much as possible before parting with my $s. When shopping for a compressor, the "experts" I've seen on Youtube always recommend getting one with a tank. This gives you a buffer of air and is not constantly running. I asked for and received a TimberTech for Christmas. Was about $90 US at Ama$on. To be honest, I haven't taken it out of the box yet, but it has some pretty good reviews.
As for the airbrush, I'm missing my right index finger, half of my pinkie and have limited range of motion in the other two fingers. Yes, I'm right-handed.
I cannot manipulate the button on top of a traditional airbrush and trying to use one left-handed would be ... well ... less than satisfactory. There are a number of trigger action airbrushes - similar to a regular spray gun. I can squeeze a trigger with pretty good control right-handed. I found a few pretty good reviews for the Black Widow from Harbor Freight, so I picked one up. Again, I have yet to use it, but I'm just letting you know what I chose based on my own research. You may also need a hose and quick-connect adapters. I also picked up a cleaning kit, and don't forget a stand to hang the airbrush on while you need both hands for something. You can't just lay it down lest the paint run out of the cup.
That all said, please do your own research.
As for the airbrush, I'm missing my right index finger, half of my pinkie and have limited range of motion in the other two fingers. Yes, I'm right-handed.
I cannot manipulate the button on top of a traditional airbrush and trying to use one left-handed would be ... well ... less than satisfactory. There are a number of trigger action airbrushes - similar to a regular spray gun. I can squeeze a trigger with pretty good control right-handed. I found a few pretty good reviews for the Black Widow from Harbor Freight, so I picked one up. Again, I have yet to use it, but I'm just letting you know what I chose based on my own research. You may also need a hose and quick-connect adapters. I also picked up a cleaning kit, and don't forget a stand to hang the airbrush on while you need both hands for something. You can't just lay it down lest the paint run out of the cup.
That all said, please do your own research.
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I'm 77 and have been using a Paasche airbrush forever! Bought my first one in 1974. Have tried several others including Badger but stick with my double action Paasche. The basic difference between single and double action is that a single action is like using a spray can, you cannot regulate the flow (volume of paint).
Have used many different compressors over the years but prefer one with a small tank, provides more consistent air pressure. I have a Craftsman 3gal pancake for large projects (very noisy startup) and Timbertech 3L mini compressor I can use in the house.
Practice is key in learning to use an airbrush, and they must be kept clean. Also, I find there is a big difference in paint thinning and techniques when using different paints, especially acrylic!
Have used many different compressors over the years but prefer one with a small tank, provides more consistent air pressure. I have a Craftsman 3gal pancake for large projects (very noisy startup) and Timbertech 3L mini compressor I can use in the house.
Practice is key in learning to use an airbrush, and they must be kept clean. Also, I find there is a big difference in paint thinning and techniques when using different paints, especially acrylic!
Thanx for the info. Arthritis holds me up some times, but that is nothing. I understand about the reserve tank maintain even pressure avoiding splotches. I'll look around.I, too, am no expert, but I try to research as much as possible before parting with my $s. When shopping for a compressor, the "experts" I've seen on Youtube always recommend getting one with a tank. This gives you a buffer of air and is not constantly running. I asked for and received a TimberTech for Christmas. Was about $90 US at Ama$on. To be honest, I haven't taken it out of the box yet, but it has some pretty good reviews.
As for the airbrush, I'm missing my right index finger, half of my pinkie and have limited range of motion in the other two fingers. Yes, I'm right-handed.
I cannot manipulate the button on top of a traditional airbrush and trying to use one left-handed would be ... well ... less than satisfactory. There are a number of trigger action airbrushes - similar to a regular spray gun. I can squeeze a trigger with pretty good control right-handed. I found a few pretty good reviews for the Black Widow from Harbor Freight, so I picked one up. Again, I have yet to use it, but I'm just letting you know what I chose based on my own research. You may also need a hose and quick-connect adapters. I also picked up a cleaning kit, and don't forget a stand to hang the airbrush on while you need both hands for something. You can't just lay it down lest the paint run out of the cup.
That all said, please do your own research.
Like many other things, it depends on what you want to do with it.
To start off with, I'm going to assume we are looking at something to paint models with and not painting automobiles or houses.
So, I'm going to focus on the smaller airbrushes.
There are many different brands and each person is going to have their preferences based on what they and their close friends have used. There are many good brands out there. And all of those brands have good and lower quality airbrushes.
The 2 most common to modelers are going to be Pasche and Badger.
Then there is single stage and dual stage to consider. Single stage you have to adjust the needle before you start painting with it and the needle stays there during the painting process. The position of the needle is what determines the "pattern" of the spray. This is what people consider the airbrush to start with because it is easy to learn due to not having as many things to vary to get a good finish. The single stage airbrush is also easier to clean. This is also what people will use when painting to replace "rattle can" paint. There are still things to learn like thinning the paint to the right consistency to get a good finish is probably what most struggle with. Dual stage you push the button to spray and then move the button forward and back to adjust the position of the needle to adjust the pattern as you paint. This gives you flexibility in adjusting the spray pattern as you paint. These are considerably more challenging to learn to use well.
The next thing to consider is if you want top feed or bottom feed. Top feed is for painting with small amounts of paint that goes in a cup on the top of the airbrush. The bottom feed uses a small bottle slung under the airbrush that can hold more paint. Obviously, the bottom feed brush holding more paint can paint larger areas without having to stop and refill the airbrush reservoir.
Things to also consider are the compressor and tank to use, an air regulator and a moisture separator, or you can get little cans or propellant to use but they don't last long at all.
Sheesh ! Making me type so much first thing in the morning. (I'm just kidding)
I hope that helps !
Jeff
To start off with, I'm going to assume we are looking at something to paint models with and not painting automobiles or houses.
So, I'm going to focus on the smaller airbrushes.There are many different brands and each person is going to have their preferences based on what they and their close friends have used. There are many good brands out there. And all of those brands have good and lower quality airbrushes.
The 2 most common to modelers are going to be Pasche and Badger.
Then there is single stage and dual stage to consider. Single stage you have to adjust the needle before you start painting with it and the needle stays there during the painting process. The position of the needle is what determines the "pattern" of the spray. This is what people consider the airbrush to start with because it is easy to learn due to not having as many things to vary to get a good finish. The single stage airbrush is also easier to clean. This is also what people will use when painting to replace "rattle can" paint. There are still things to learn like thinning the paint to the right consistency to get a good finish is probably what most struggle with. Dual stage you push the button to spray and then move the button forward and back to adjust the position of the needle to adjust the pattern as you paint. This gives you flexibility in adjusting the spray pattern as you paint. These are considerably more challenging to learn to use well.
The next thing to consider is if you want top feed or bottom feed. Top feed is for painting with small amounts of paint that goes in a cup on the top of the airbrush. The bottom feed uses a small bottle slung under the airbrush that can hold more paint. Obviously, the bottom feed brush holding more paint can paint larger areas without having to stop and refill the airbrush reservoir.
Things to also consider are the compressor and tank to use, an air regulator and a moisture separator, or you can get little cans or propellant to use but they don't last long at all.
Sheesh ! Making me type so much first thing in the morning.
(I'm just kidding)I hope that helps !
Jeff
There are many different brands. Along with an airbrush, you will require a compressor (I recommend a quiet one like California compressor or Iwata compressor with a tank) Some people also use commercial size tanks of nitrogen or CO2. You will also need a spray booth big enough for your projects. I have 2 Iwata airbrushed that I like.
There are a million you tube videos (well maybe only 250,000
on airbrushing) one series I like is by Paul Budzik who has a large series on modeling technigues
God luck! and PM me with any questions if you wish,
Rob
There are a million you tube videos (well maybe only 250,000
on airbrushing) one series I like is by Paul Budzik who has a large series on modeling techniguesAirbrushing for Modelers 101 | Selecting the Right Airbrush | Paul Budzik | Fine Scale Modeling
Paul Budzik | Fine Scale Models | Airbrushing for Modelers
paulbudzik.com
God luck! and PM me with any questions if you wish,
Rob
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Airbrush: I have a Badger 350. It is simple and rugged and relatively easy to clean. It does have the button on top making it awkward for me to use. I too have thought about a trigger type unit and would be interested in others experiences.
Compressor: An airbrush is useless without a reliable air source. I recommend one of the “no name” units sold by major home improvement retailers to supply air to air nailers. These include, a regulator adjustable for pressure, moisture trap, and most importantly a tank all in one package. On sale a unit should cost about $100. The outlet on mine is fitted with a 1/4” npt thread that mates with Badger’s air hose, but I have fitted both the hose and outlet with quick disconnects.
Roger
Compressor: An airbrush is useless without a reliable air source. I recommend one of the “no name” units sold by major home improvement retailers to supply air to air nailers. These include, a regulator adjustable for pressure, moisture trap, and most importantly a tank all in one package. On sale a unit should cost about $100. The outlet on mine is fitted with a 1/4” npt thread that mates with Badger’s air hose, but I have fitted both the hose and outlet with quick disconnects.
Roger
I have one of the little harbor freight compressors but it doesn't have a tank. And I have a big 30 gallon DeVillbiss compressor I use in the shop and to blow out my sprinklers each fall. But for airbrushing, I opted for a QUIET compressor and settled on the Kobalt from Lowe's. And it IS quiet. Works beautifully, doesn't cycle all that often and has a full range of pressures available. My airbrush is the Iwata HP-CS and it works very very well. The picture shows a price of 179.000 but this morning I saw it for 159.00.There are many different brands. Along with an airbrush, you will require a compressor (I recommend a quiet one like California compressor or Iwata compressor with a tank) Some people also use commercial size tanks of nitrogen or CO2. You will also need a spray booth big enough for your projects. I have 2 Iwata airbrushed that I like.
There are a million you tube videos (well maybe only 250,000
Airbrushing for Modelers 101 | Selecting the Right Airbrush | Paul Budzik | Fine Scale Modeling
Paul Budzik | Fine Scale Models | Airbrushing for Modelerspaulbudzik.com
God luck! and PM me with any questions if you wish,
Rob
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These work fine when you have a separate, dedicated shop space where the noise only affects you, because they can be quite loud. Not so much, though, when your hobby room is a converted spare bedroom. Admirals seem to be quite sensitive with regards to noise.
One low cost pancake compressor from a local home center for $49 US has a noise level of 83 decibels - in between an alarm clock and a subway train. The Timbertech compressor has a rating of 50 db - a humming refrigerator or office environment. If you need to please the Admiral, well ...
Thanks. Single stage to start. I have some plastic models to start with, WWI vessels which do not require sophisticated work. It appears the compressor with air regulator and moisture separator being the neart of the operation should be as good as I can afford.Like many other things, it depends on what you want to do with it.
To start off with, I'm going to assume we are looking at something to paint models with and not painting automobiles or houses.
There are many different brands and each person is going to have their preferences based on what they and their close friends have used. There are many good brands out there. And all of those brands have good and lower quality airbrushes.
The 2 most common to modelers are going to be Pasche and Badger.
Then there is single stage and dual stage to consider. Single stage you have to adjust the needle before you start painting with it and the needle stays there during the painting process. The position of the needle is what determines the "pattern" of the spray. This is what people consider the airbrush to start with because it is easy to learn due to not having as many things to vary to get a good finish. The single stage airbrush is also easier to clean. This is also what people will use when painting to replace "rattle can" paint. There are still things to learn like thinning the paint to the right consistency to get a good finish is probably what most struggle with. Dual stage you push the button to spray and then move the button forward and back to adjust the position of the needle to adjust the pattern as you paint. This gives you flexibility in adjusting the spray pattern as you paint. These are considerably more challenging to learn to use well.
The next thing to consider is if you want top feed or bottom feed. Top feed is for painting with small amounts of paint that goes in a cup on the top of the airbrush. The bottom feed uses a small bottle slung under the airbrush that can hold more paint. Obviously, the bottom feed brush holding more paint can paint larger areas without having to stop and refill the airbrush reservoir.
Things to also consider are the compressor and tank to use, an air regulator and a moisture separator, or you can get little cans or propellant to use but they don't last long at all.
Sheesh ! Making me type so much first thing in the morning.
I hope that helps !
Jeff
This is worth checking out.
Everyone has an opinion, this is mine. As Jeff said I assume you are painting models not automobiles.
Over the years I have tried several different airbrush's and settled on the following:
Grex Tritium Model TG3. Pistol style, double action top feed. Many needle sizes are available depending on what you are painting.
For me I find the pistol grip much easier to control than the top button type. But that's just me.
For a compressor I'm using the Master Airbrush 1/5 hp CoolRunner Model TC-32 which is a quiet 47db
Over the years I have tried several different airbrush's and settled on the following:
Grex Tritium Model TG3. Pistol style, double action top feed. Many needle sizes are available depending on what you are painting.
For me I find the pistol grip much easier to control than the top button type. But that's just me.
For a compressor I'm using the Master Airbrush 1/5 hp CoolRunner Model TC-32 which is a quiet 47db
THANX. Now that my furniture is here I can get started to get started.....LoLEveryone has an opinion, this is mine. As Jeff said I assume you are painting models not automobiles.
Over the years I have tried several different airbrush's and settled on the following:
Grex Tritium Model TG3. Pistol style, double action top feed. Many needle sizes are available depending on what you are painting.
For me I find the pistol grip much easier to control than the top button type. But that's just me.
View attachment 500746
For a compressor I'm using the Master Airbrush 1/5 hp CoolRunner Model TC-32 which is a quiet 47db
View attachment 500747
I use a double-action Paasche that I've had since the mid-1970's. I bought it on sale and knew little about airbrushes. I got lucky. I will say that there are lots of fine airbrushes on the market today, but there's also a tremendous amount of junk out there. I would not recommend that anybody buy a bargain basement airbrush. They can work well initially, but they often crap out in short order. Their notorious for their threaded parts stripping and you will need to take your brush apart with fair regularity to properly clean it. A decent airbrush is a precision instrument and precision costs money.
I've heard many advise beginners to get a single-action airbrush because the double-action brushes are difficult to learn. I've not found that to be the case at all. I didn't know the difference when I got my double-action one, but I do appreciate the ease of use and the greater control I have over it. I think I end up with a lot less overspray, too. It may be that I had no trouble with a double-action airbrush because I was experienced using a Binks gun that also has the two-step trigger that gives you "air first, then paint." With the double-action airbrush, you can easily clear your nozzle with a blast of air only and you can taper off on the weight of your sprayed material at the end of a stroke to avoid applying too much material at overlaps if and when you have them.
As for practice, don't waste paint. Use water to practice with. If you take a piece of absorbent cardboard such as is used for the backs of writing tablets, or some similar material that absorbs liquid and gets darker when it does, you can spray tap water from your airbrush onto the porous surface and instantly see what you are spraying. Do a bit of that and you'll quickly gain confidence and master the adjustments without making a big mess and wasting paint.
If you've painted this long with nothing but a brush, I presume you are an accomplished painter. If so, you will have no problem conditioning your own paint so that it sprays properly. I generally mix my own modeling paint colors for both brushing and spraying using quality artists' oil paint with as fine a pigment as I can find. I condition them as is customary, using basic solvents, dryers, and retarders (e.g., turpentine, acetone, etc., Japan dryer, and linseed oil.) That's lots cheaper than buying those little one- and two-ounce bottles, especially the ones that are supposedly "pre-mixed" for airbrushing. You are paying a humongous amount for a little bit of pigment and a lot of solvent, and the stuff often dries up quickly in the bottle once it's opened.
I've heard many advise beginners to get a single-action airbrush because the double-action brushes are difficult to learn. I've not found that to be the case at all. I didn't know the difference when I got my double-action one, but I do appreciate the ease of use and the greater control I have over it. I think I end up with a lot less overspray, too. It may be that I had no trouble with a double-action airbrush because I was experienced using a Binks gun that also has the two-step trigger that gives you "air first, then paint." With the double-action airbrush, you can easily clear your nozzle with a blast of air only and you can taper off on the weight of your sprayed material at the end of a stroke to avoid applying too much material at overlaps if and when you have them.
As for practice, don't waste paint. Use water to practice with. If you take a piece of absorbent cardboard such as is used for the backs of writing tablets, or some similar material that absorbs liquid and gets darker when it does, you can spray tap water from your airbrush onto the porous surface and instantly see what you are spraying. Do a bit of that and you'll quickly gain confidence and master the adjustments without making a big mess and wasting paint.
If you've painted this long with nothing but a brush, I presume you are an accomplished painter. If so, you will have no problem conditioning your own paint so that it sprays properly. I generally mix my own modeling paint colors for both brushing and spraying using quality artists' oil paint with as fine a pigment as I can find. I condition them as is customary, using basic solvents, dryers, and retarders (e.g., turpentine, acetone, etc., Japan dryer, and linseed oil.) That's lots cheaper than buying those little one- and two-ounce bottles, especially the ones that are supposedly "pre-mixed" for airbrushing. You are paying a humongous amount for a little bit of pigment and a lot of solvent, and the stuff often dries up quickly in the bottle once it's opened.
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THANX for the info. O am impervious to salesperople talk. Maybe that will help me find what works.
Already, a lot of information has been provided in previous posts, but it's worth considering the type of paint you'll be using. While the same airbrush can be used for both acrylic and enamel paints, each has its pros and cons. I initially started with enamel paint but later switched to acrylic because it produces fewer fumes, making it more comfortable to work with.
For me, the biggest challenge has been cleaning the airbrush without damaging it. Once again, I find this process much easier with acrylic paint, so I use a cheap spare brush for the few enamel paint jobs.
For me, the biggest challenge has been cleaning the airbrush without damaging it. Once again, I find this process much easier with acrylic paint, so I use a cheap spare brush for the few enamel paint jobs.
My choice has always been acrylic. Variety of colors is a factor.
I would recommend Badger airbrushes and compressors for you. Compared to other manufacturers Badger equipment is relatively inexpensive and the company has an excellent reputation for customer service. They have an extensive line of air bushes for all skill levels.
I think all their air brushes are dual-action (press down for air, pull back for paint flow).
If/when you do commit to buying just remember to practice on scrap material. When I started air brushing I had a hard time controlling the paint flow.
Also, crucially, the paint has to be properly thinned to the consistency of skim milk.
I think all their air brushes are dual-action (press down for air, pull back for paint flow).
If/when you do commit to buying just remember to practice on scrap material. When I started air brushing I had a hard time controlling the paint flow.
Also, crucially, the paint has to be properly thinned to the consistency of skim milk.