Air Brush Problems

[Neckbone]

Having a lot of problems with my Paasche Talon Airbrush.
Paint does not flow well, sometimes not at all. I have had it disassembled 50 times. There are no clogs.
The only thing that seems questionable is the needle placement. I have read that it should be pressed into the gun until resistance is felt. I have pushed it past that point into a dead stop, tried right at the resitance spot, and recently a good distance shy of the resistance which seems to work the best. Even then it does not lay paint down like I expect (first time user; don't know exactly what I should expect).
How do you guys locate you gun's needle?
Thanks.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

first try to fill the gun with water and see what happens. If you get good results with water then thin down your paint

 

[Rob444]

There are multiple you tube videos on airbrushes. There might be one on your model. You may want to look there.

Rob

 

[Neckbone]

Good suggestion on the water. Very little of anything goes through. Utube is a big help in learning the assembly procedure. However, it's a little vague on pin positioning. That's where I need guidance. Seems everything else is fine but the pin or paint feed.

 

[fourseas]

Once the airbrush sprays water to your satisfaction, back the needle off just a bit more for the paint and try that. I have found that with todays fast drying paints the airbrush clogs up fairly quickly. I have had to keep a spare container of water next to my work and continuously flushing it to get through the job. A big nuisance, but it does work.

 

[Jimsky]

When it comes to airbrushing, there are many possible variables to consider — but the most common issue is usually the paint itself. That said, the airbrush can sometimes be the culprit too.
Once you’ve assembled the airbrush, don’t start with paint right away. Instead, test it using distilled water. Does it spray evenly, with a smooth and consistent flow? Or do you see sputtering or splattering? If the water sprays well, your airbrush setup is likely fine, and the problem is probably with the paint’s consistency or viscosity.
Are you trying to spray heavily pigmented paint through a 0.2 mm needle? If so, that could be the issue — the needle is too fine for thicker paints, and you’ll just end up frustrated. Try using paint that’s specifically formulated for airbrushing. Some manufacturers offer “ready-to-spray” paints that don’t require any thinning at all.

However, if the airbrush itself is the problem, diagnosing it becomes more difficult. The needle is often the first thing to check — make sure it’s perfectly straight, especially at the tip. Even a slightly bent needle can cause erratic spray patterns or clogging.

When choosing acrylic paint made for scale models and airbrushing, look for:

1. Labeling: “Airbrush-ready”, “ready to spray”, “suitable for X needle size / pressure range”.
2. Viscosity / Pigment load: Enough pigment for model scale detail, but fluid enough not to clog.
3. Compatibility: With primer, clear coats, decals, washes — especially for ship or vehicle models.
4. Finish control: Have options for flat / matte / semi-gloss / gloss depending on how the model will be seen.
5. Ease of cleanup & safety: Water-based acrylics reduce odor and toxicity, easier cleanup.

Here are some suggestions from my list.

• Mission Models IDF Green Acrylic (Airbrush‑Ready) — A color specific to modern military models; Mission Models is known for good pigment quality and “air-ready” formula.
• Warpaints Air Starter Set — Nice starter kit; colors useful out of the bottle; good for experimenting.
• Golden High Flow Acrylics 6‑Color Set — Very fluid, high pigment; works well for fine detail or surface where you want light coats.
• Squadron Scale Colors Flat Clear — Not a color, but a flat clear coat that’s airbrush ready; useful for final finish.
• Vallejo Premium 200 ml — Large size; good for base colors or high-coverage needs.
• Createx Opaque 6‑Color Set — Strong solid coverage; good for flat or opaque work in models.
• Many modelers report that Tamiya acrylics can airbrush well, but they often need thinning.
• Some users say that AK 3G paints are “ready to airbrush straight from the bottle” (i.e. minimal thinning needed) when using their designated thinner)

Edited post: also a compressor could a potential problem for airbrush painting, too much pci can create problem.

 

[Jeff T]

Before I add my thinned paint to the reservoir, I add some thinner and spray that through to make sure that I get a good spray pattern. I also make sure I have a small amount of thinner in the bottom of the cup when I add the paint. It seems to aid getting the initial paint to flow well.

I have not seen the problem that you discuss. I put the needle in after cleaning until it just stops. I don't use much pressure as I slide the needle into place. Is it possible that you have the travel adjustment on the nut on the back of the handle adjusted too close so that you are not getting the needle to retract far enough to get paint to flow? I doubt this is the case since you would probably notice that the trigger isn't moving very far.

I do have a airbrush that uses a under the body trigger design that is nice for large area coverage (such as the hull). On that one the needle has to be set too it's furthest position and then backed off ever so slightly. This allows this particular airbrush to operate as a double action airbrush.

 

[Kimosubby]

This may seem odd to suggest but, having just looked up your airbrush and noted that it is a double action mechanism, and that you are a newbie airbrush user, are you actually engaging the double action mode? Press down to get pressure and pull back at the same time to open the needle from the nozzle.
When I first migrated up to double action I was at The Dortmund Model Show, Germany. The brush usage was demonstrated to me and then handed over for me to have a go. At first I got nothing flowing, I pressed down BUT did not pull back simultaneously; then the demonstrator realised my problem and patiently showed me how it functions, and how to master its use. I now use Harder and Steenbeck Evolution brushes with ease.

 

[glennb17]

I am not an airbrush expert, but am pretty decent at getting what I want from these great tools for model parts or directly on models. Here's what I think
1. You probably shouldn't monkey with the position of your needle as a beginner. You can do everything you need to do for modelling with the needle starting all the way forward before you pull back on the action. Make sure the trigger is relaxed with the needle forward before you tighten the needle-gripping nut.
2. don't forget to lube the gasket inside the brush, especially if you are disassembling and cleaning frequently. Lube probably came with the tool or you can buy CLP from anywhere that sells firearms stuff. A tiny drop on the end of the needle, put through the brush, and then work the action a little and you are good to go.
3. Jimsky is right on the tip. Get something with real magnification and check the needle tip. If it's bent, just replace it.

If you are getting nice patterns with water but not with paint, see the thorough and wise comments above. You can't go wrong with Vallejo airbrush paints, flow improver, and thinner unless you have something special in mind with unique pigments. But the flow improver and thinner help a lot even with paint from another manufacturer. Paint that is thin and requires a bunch of quick coats is better than paint that is too thick and then sputters and jams your brush.

 

[AER3393]

I’m no expert, but what are your symptoms spraying.? Are there any bubbles in the cup? Is it spitting or pulsating? What pressure are you spraying at and how are you diluting your paint? Does it have a milk like consistency? Also, what type of paint are you using?

 

[AER3393]

Typically issues with airbrushes are with airflow, paint consistency and/ or a dirty a/b. If you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner, you would be amazed at what comes out of the airbrush, even after a thorough cleaning by hand.
Bubbling in the cup typically means you have an air seal issue. A pulsating paint flow with no bubbling in the cup typically means there is an issue with a bent needle, or a damaged or dirty nozzle. If the needle has been pushed to forcibly, it can flare out or even crack, the nozzle tip All other issues that I have experienced, involve the type of paint being used as as well as as if it is properly thinned for your airbrush and the needle size.
If all else fails, you can always contact the manufacturers customer service department or the distributor. I have always had good luck getting answers from the source.