Another Question About Linseed Oil

[Peter Gutterman]

In my experience PC-Petrifier brand, non-solvent, water borne wood hardener, makes a very good sealer prep for acrylic stains and finish coats. It is very thin, absorbs deeply and well, gives a good hard surface that still has tooth, sands well, with no antipathy to water or oil based products used over it .Though it may appear to dry quickly give it a good 24hrs. to cure.
Likewise Elmer's brand carpenter's interior wood filler is a very easy to use water soluable product . It can be worked and reworked with water, applied and modeled with a palette knife or your fingers, easily sanded and does not dry harder than the wood, allowing for uniform even sanding, and takes stain. If it dries in the container tub, it can be revived by mixing in more water , reducing waste. It may also be sealed with the above mentioned product along with the surrounding wood to accept any kind of finish.

Hope this helps, PG

 

[Jack Jäger]

Stay away from solvent vehicle finishing products as much as practicable. In nearly every contemporary case a more environmentally and non poisonous water based substitute is readily available, easier and safer to use and give very satisfying results. Thanks again to danielesje for his very useful and helpful information on this topic regarding model building.
I am happy to receive any correction to, or informed analysis of, my comments . Beyond personal experience I am no authority

Peter I can not agree with you more in all that you say . When you talk about 'joint wear' are you talking about in furniture? JJ

 

[Peter Gutterman]

Wrists, elbows, shoulders, knees.
Furniture restoration is all repetitive motion. Wax on wax off. literally!

Pete

 

[Submarinerblue]

Related question: I’m only going to use linseed oil (boiled) on unpainted surfaces. But, if I unintentionally get a touch of oil on a painted section can I just wipe it off and touch up the paint (if necessary) without a problem? Or will it screw up the painted surface?

 

[Jack Jäger]

Related question: I’m only going to use linseed oil (boiled) on unpainted surfaces. But, if I unintentionally get a touch of oil on a painted section can I just wipe it off and touch up the paint (if necessary) without a problem? Or will it screw up the painted surface?

If the painted section is well dried there should be no harm done. If not you should be very careful and, if you have to, use the mildest solvent that will remove the boiled oil. be careful not to wipe too hard as the linseed oil may have softened the painted surface below it. JJ

 

[PT-2]

Having had 40+ years as a restorer of period (mostly 18th and 19thc.) furniture and over ten years experience as a volunteer model shipwright at the Naval Academy museum model shop, I have had a lot of experience restoring and using shellac as a finish and finish base for oil or water vehicle. Allowed to dry thoroughly (24hrs.) it is malleable (can be reworked ad infinitum) and serve as a base for either acrylic or oil based top coats. Shellac is the most frequently encountered finish used on centuries old antique furniture as well as period ship models, and is eminently restorable. Amber shellac imparts a honey gold color to wood surfaces imparting a warm under glow to other finishes. Clear or "white" shellac is perfectly clear, and often used to seal unsightly stains before being painted over to prevent bleed through. Using a soft cotton cloth pad or "rubber" with a touch of boiled linseed oil (just a touch!) on the pad as a lubricant, shellac can be applied and polished onto a well prepared hardwood surface and brought to a very high luster or even gloss finish. This is a simple, technique ,but requires much practice and patience to achieve reliably successful results. Polishing is still a profession in England and Europe.

Pete Gutterman

This shellac information is very informative and helpful. Thanks for sharing your experience with the usage. Rich (PT-2)

 

[Uwek]

Having had 40+ years as a restorer of period (mostly 18th and 19thc.) furniture and over ten years experience as a volunteer model shipwright at the Naval Academy museum model shop, I have had a lot of experience restoring and using shellac as a finish and finish base for oil or water vehicle. Allowed to dry thoroughly (24hrs.) it is malleable (can be reworked ad infinitum) and serve as a base for either acrylic or oil based top coats. Shellac is the most frequently encountered finish used on centuries old antique furniture as well as period ship models, and is eminently restorable. Amber shellac imparts a honey gold color to wood surfaces imparting a warm under glow to other finishes. Clear or "white" shellac is perfectly clear, and often used to seal unsightly stains before being painted over to prevent bleed through. Using a soft cotton cloth pad or "rubber" with a touch of boiled linseed oil (just a touch!) on the pad as a lubricant, shellac can be applied and polished onto a well prepared hardwood surface and brought to a very high luster or even gloss finish. This is a simple, technique ,but requires much practice and patience to achieve reliably successful results. Polishing is still a profession in England and Europe.

Pete Gutterman

Hallo @Peter Gutterman
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY

 

[Peter Gutterman]

Thanks!
After awhile(76) birthdays are a kittle like the stuff in a horse stall. They just pile up. What do you do with 'em all?
Seriously , getting old is a privilege. My dad will always be 68, my brother 49.
I'm 76 with three builds on the ways and all the faculties still intact to finish 'em.

How do you make a living as a craftsman? Marry well!
Better to be lucky than good! Gotta say I have been... for a lotta years!

Pete