Anyone familiar with liver of sulphur for browning copper?

Jack Sparrow said:
I am wondering if anyone has experience with using liver of sulphur to patina copper?
Click to expand...
I have patina-ed (if that is a verb?) copper for stained glass construction but used chemicals I bought at a stained glass store. YouTube has some videos about liver of sulphur and you can buy the stuff on Amazon. Screenshot_20250520-064011_Chrome.jpg
 
Last edited:
thanks. And how was your experience with liver of sulphur? I have been experimenting with salt water and vinegar for the same purpose but it seems to be awefully slow to oxidize the copper
 
Jack Sparrow said:
thanks. And how was your experience with liver of sulphur? I have been experimenting with salt water and vinegar for the same purpose but it seems to be awefully slow to oxidize the copper
Click to expand...
I don't know about liver of sulphur specifically as I didn't pay much attention to the solutions I purchased. I guess you'll just have to try it. I did notice that Amazon carries several versions of the stuff. All the patina solutions I've used acted very quickly on the metals.
 
Philski said:
I don't know about liver of sulphur specifically as I didn't pay much attention to the solutions I purchased. I guess you'll just have to try it. I did notice that Amazon carries several versions of the stuff. All the patina solutions I've used acted very quickly on the metals.
Click to expand...
ok, thanks. My salt water and vinegar solution is too slow.
 
I patina’ed a sheet of copper for the bottom of a glass case that I built for a model. Here’s the process:

1. Thoroughly clean the copper.

2. Put a folded towel in the bottom of a plastic tub. Saturate the towel with Household Amononia. Suspend the copper over the towel, not in contact with it.

3. If you want to add blue tones, sprinkle salt on the copper.

4. Seal up the box with a lid.

The amononia vapors do the work.

Roger
 
Roger Pellett said:
I patina’ed a sheet of copper for the bottom of a glass case that I built for a model. Here’s the process:

1. Thoroughly clean the copper.

2. Put a folded towel in the bottom of a plastic tub. Saturate the towel with Household Amononia. Suspend the copper over the towel, not in contact with it.

3. If you want to add blue tones, sprinkle salt on the copper.

4. Seal up the box with a lid.

The amononia vapors do the work.

Roger
Click to expand...
This process usually takes an hour. You have to make sure that the metal is cleaned with denatured alcohol, and the surfaces are even with regard to how rough or polished they are. Handle the parts with rubber gloves or an instrument like pliers so no fingerprint oil gets on the clean parts, or the ammonia will oxidize your fingerprints into the metal.
 
You may wish to be more specific about what you are wanting to do. "Patina" is a generic term. "Copper patina" can run the gamut from browns to black, but also can, in conjunction with some salts, produce bright green ("verdigris") through gray. Liver of sulfur produces browns through black, depending upon the solution temperature, length of treatment, and concentration of the liver of sulfur solution. Liver of sulfur is primarily used in modeling to turn copper fittings jet black. This can be accomplished after the fittings, such as spar bands, are installed by applying the liver of sulfur with a paintbrush. Liver of sulfur leaves no residue on the surrounding wooden surfaces. If one is looking for a verdigris patina, the ammonia fuming and salts technique Roger described is the favored option.
 
Bob Cleek said:
You may wish to be more specific about what you are wanting to do. "Patina" is a generic term. "Copper patina" can run the gamut from browns to black, but also can, in conjunction with some salts, produce bright green ("verdigris") through gray. Liver of sulfur produces browns through black, depending upon the solution temperature, length of treatment, and concentration of the liver of sulfur solution. Liver of sulfur is primarily used in modeling to turn copper fittings jet black. This can be accomplished after the fittings, such as spar bands, are installed by applying the liver of sulfur with a paintbrush. Liver of sulfur leaves no residue on the surrounding wooden surfaces. If one is looking for a verdigris patina, the ammonia fuming and salts technique Roger described is the favored option.
Click to expand...
thanks. I am aware of the different patinas that can be created depending on the method chosen. My question was specifically about how easy/hard it is to patina with liver of sulphur. Does it take time for the reaction to occur?
 
I can't say I've tried them all, but by all reports and my own experience, liver of sulfur is relatively fast if the solution is strong and the liquid is heated. You can see the metal darkening as soon as it's placed in the solution. From all indications, liver of sulfur is the easiest and most reliable method for turning copper black. Check out the jewelry-making videos on liver of sulfur on YouTube.
 
Jack Sparrow said:
I am wondering if anyone has experience with using liver of sulphur to patina copper?
Click to expand...
What I love about using liver of sulfur is that it takes only a few drops that can be diluted with equal parts of water and you can blacken the parts in situ. It will not stain the wood. Like any metal, it should be filed and cleaned with acetone or a similar solvent so you are touching clean metal. Another thing to watch out for is once the copper part has been put on, if it is filed, be sure to clean up the filings with a wet rag first so these little particles are gone as they will also be blackened. Get the smallest container you can buy as it will last years. I wish it worked on brass, but unfortunately, it does not.
Allan
 
Last edited:
Hi Jack,

As a jeweler, I have used Liver of sulfur, a chemical compound typically a mixture of potassium sulfides, used to patinate (darken or color) metals, especially silver, copper, and bronze (not brass). It reacts with the metal surface to create a range of oxidation colors, from gold to deep purples, blues, and finally black, depending on how long the metal is exposed and how strong the solution is.

Here is what You Need:
  • Liver of sulfur (gel, lump, or pre-mixed solution)
  • Warm distilled water (not hot, around 100–120°F / 38–49°C)
  • Plastic or glass container (never metal)
  • Tongs or plastic tweezers
  • Mild dish soap
  • Soft brush (like a toothbrush)
  • Baking soda (to neutralize)
  • Rubber gloves & good ventilation
Basic Steps
  1. Wash your parts with mild soap and water to remove oils or oxidation. Use fine steel wool or a soft abrasive pad to slightly roughen the surface if needed
  2. Dissolve a small amount of liver of sulfur (a pea-sized piece or a few drops of gel) in warm distilled water. The solution should be yellowish and smell like rotten eggs.
  3. Submerge the piece in the solution using plastic tongs. Watch closely: the metal will quickly change color, first gold, then plum, purple, blue, grey, and finally black. Remove when you've reached the shade you want (usually 5–30 seconds).
  4. Immediately place the part in a baking soda bath (cold water + a tablespoon of baking soda) to neutralize the reaction. Rinse with clean water and dry thoroughly.
  5. Buff lightly with steel wool or a soft cloth to highlight raised details. You can seal with a microcrystalline wax like Renaissance or lacquer if desired. Tips and Warnings:

Tips and Warnings:
  • Ventilation is key for the use of Liver of sulfur. The smell is awful, it stinks like rotten eggs.
  • Don’t use a metal container, as it can ruin the solution and the patina.
  • The solution is short-lived once mixed; use it right away.
I use it only when necessary, because of this smell, and mostly on the silver and bronze. It does work well, but the process is kinda messy and that smell...ya know...There are many chemical solutions nowadays; no need to use this residue, IMHO. But...the choice is yours, as always.
 
Jimsky said:
Hi Jack,

As a jeweler, I have used Liver of sulfur, a chemical compound typically a mixture of potassium sulfides, used to patinate (darken or color) metals, especially silver, copper, and bronze (not brass). It reacts with the metal surface to create a range of oxidation colors, from gold to deep purples, blues, and finally black, depending on how long the metal is exposed and how strong the solution is.

Here is what You Need:
  • Liver of sulfur (gel, lump, or pre-mixed solution)
  • Warm distilled water (not hot, around 100–120°F / 38–49°C)
  • Plastic or glass container (never metal)
  • Tongs or plastic tweezers
  • Mild dish soap
  • Soft brush (like a toothbrush)
  • Baking soda (to neutralize)
  • Rubber gloves & good ventilation
Basic Steps
  1. Wash your parts with mild soap and water to remove oils or oxidation. Use fine steel wool or a soft abrasive pad to slightly roughen the surface if needed
  2. Dissolve a small amount of liver of sulfur (a pea-sized piece or a few drops of gel) in warm distilled water. The solution should be yellowish and smell like rotten eggs.
  3. Submerge the piece in the solution using plastic tongs. Watch closely: the metal will quickly change color, first gold, then plum, purple, blue, grey, and finally black. Remove when you've reached the shade you want (usually 5–30 seconds).
  4. Immediately place the part in a baking soda bath (cold water + a tablespoon of baking soda) to neutralize the reaction. Rinse with clean water and dry thoroughly.
  5. Buff lightly with steel wool or a soft cloth to highlight raised details. You can seal with a microcrystalline wax like Renaissance or lacquer if desired. Tips and Warnings:

Tips and Warnings:
  • Ventilation is key for the use of Liver of sulfur. The smell is awful, it stinks like rotten eggs.
  • Don’t use a metal container, as it can ruin the solution and the patina.
  • The solution is short-lived once mixed; use it right away.
I use it only when necessary, because of this smell, and mostly on the silver and bronze. It does work well, but the process is kinda messy and that smell...ya know...There are many chemical solutions nowadays; no need to use this residue, IMHO. But...the choice is yours, as always.
Click to expand...
thank you for the information. It appears that I can add "mad scientist" to my list of hobbies. It almost sounds like I am looking for the Elixir of Life. lol. I am very familiar with that chemical smell. Hydrogen Sulphide isn't it?
 
Jack Sparrow said:
it's also toxic.
Click to expand...
Yes, hydrogen sulfide gas is very toxic as well as explosive, but, as with many other chemicals commonly occurring in nature, the factors of its concentration in the atmosphere and duration of exposure are critical variables affecting the amount of danger it poses. The relatively small amounts produced in the processes discussed here aren't especially hazardous. Use a ventilating fan if you feel the need. Google OSHA standards for further information.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top