Anyone familiar with liver of sulphur for browning copper?

Back when I was in mining, there was an explosion underground and some of the miners down there got exposed to H2S to the extent that it damaged their lungs. So when I say I`ll pass on liver of sulphur, there is some history there with the H2S.
 
Bob Cleek said:
Yes, hydrogen sulfide gas is very toxic as well as explosive, but, as with many other chemicals commonly occurring in nature, the factors of its concentration in the atmosphere and duration of exposure are critical variables affecting the amount of danger it poses. The relatively small amounts produced in the processes discussed here aren't especially hazardous. Use a ventilating fan if you feel the need. Google OSHA standards for further information.
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That's True! H2S is dangerously explosive. One time I went to Taco Bell, and . . . .


I'm still recovering, but my poor wife, . . well... :rolleyes:
 
Liver of sulfur isn't as terrible as it sounds, I've used it. Two tricks:
1. make a solution in warm water as Jimsky wrote. You should really experiment a little with the darkness of the patina, using lump liver of sulfur makes it really hard to get consistent concentrations which impact reaction time.
2. collect your waste liver of sulfur solutions in a tightly sealed plastic bottle, preferrably something you were going to recycle anyway. Always label bottles clearly with the name of the chemical ("liver of sulfur" is probably good enough) and bring to a waste disposal center. It's usually free to do at major waste collection sites (garbage dumps) on certain days of the week. It's the responsible thing to do. But if you are one of those that will just dump it down the drain, make sure to use lots of water. LOTS of water.

Liver of sulfur makes a very nice "old penny" finish if you time it right. Looks more like a historic model. If you have more patience, clean and steel wool (000) the copper very thoroughly. Oxygen will do the rest over the years.

Verdigris is a nice touch for a model of something that has been in the water for a while, but it can be tricky not overdoing it and making it salty crusty.

I have seen models where each individual plate was treated before applying to the model in batches under slightly different conditions. It's a great look and I'm dying to try it.

Good luck with your finish!
 
I have been using the patination fluids from these guys Restoration Materials . I bought the trial pack to test and the results were excellent. Very well priced. The literature also shows the best way to prep and coat. The only caveat is that they are UK based and i don't think they ship outside the UK but look for something similar because they are much easier to use and certainly avoids the hydrogen sulfide problem (I'm a Research Scientist and H2S should be avoided completely because if you can smell it, it is already above the toxic limit, it is actually more toxic than hydrogen cyanide! )
 
DomCee said:
I have been using the patination fluids from these guys Restoration Materials . I bought the trial pack to test and the results were excellent. Very well priced. The literature also shows the best way to prep and coat. The only caveat is that they are UK based and i don't think they ship outside the UK but look for something similar because they are much easier to use and certainly avoids the hydrogen sulfide problem (I'm a Research Scientist and H2S should be avoided completely because if you can smell it, it is already above the toxic limit, it is actually more toxic than hydrogen cyanide! )
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Thanks for the information. I am actually going to use vinaigre/salt solution for this purpose. I have done the starboard side and am pleased with it.
As for the H2S, yes I am aware of it's toxicity hence my reluctance to use the liver of sulphur. I am not equiped with a fume hood in my home and I just assume not use the stuff. It's unbelievable the kind of things you can buy on Amazon and that there is no warning or even access to MSDS. I don';t know what these are called in the UK, but in Canada an MSDS stands for Material Safety Data Sheet.
 
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