Bending

[Rob444]

I know this is getting totally off track, but,,,,,,where is this? I have wanted to fly in one ever since seeing Daryl Greenamyer fly his Red Baron in races many years ago.

I was lucky to be at his first low altitude speed runs in his F104 in Tonopah in '76 as we were a sponsor. 1010 mph, but there was a malfunction with the cameras so he did it again the following year. About 50 -75 feet above the ground. Incredible experience.
Allan
View attachment 643748

Here is a place in Florida. I believe there are others at air shows.

Home - Stallion 51

FLY THE P-51 MUSTANG. EXPERIENCE THE THRILL. CHECK OUT THE NEW P-51 ONLINE STORE! Unique gifts and apparel for the Mustang and aviation enthusiast. SHOP NOW AIRCRAFT AND AVIATION SERVICES Stallion 51 Corporation offers various Orientation

stallion51.com

Here is another that flies throughout the country

P-51 Mustang Gunfighter | Commemorative Air Force

Gunfighter is one of the world's most famous P-51 Mustangs. Book your ride of a lifetime today!

www.p51gunfighter.com

Rob

 

[AllanKP69]

Thanks Rob. Looks like one of them will be about 45 minutes from me next month. Now....... how do I convince the Admiral it is a good idea to take a 20 minute ride for $2,500. Maybe a $2500 necklace for Christmas??
Allan

 

[Rob444]

Allan.

If you read the testimonies the other flight in Kissimimie is more involved. You are a pilot and can do acrobatics etc. I don’t know about the price!

I thought the $2,500 necklace was standard price for just allowing this hobby!!!!

 

[RussF]

I thought the $2,500 necklace was standard price for just allowing this hobby!!!!

Just the entry fee, my friend, just the entry fee!

 

[Bob Ellis]

I am going to be very bad and write: it would all go a whole lot easier if you just did it as a scratch build. You would start with quality materials. If you are doing your hull POB, a few hours on a drawing board or in a drawing program could gain you twice or more the number of molds - depending on your ambition and tolerance for the tedious.



This device is essentially a scraper. A scraper works by having a burr as its cutting edge being dragged over the wood's surface. When I scrape - the top edge of the scraper is leaning forward. It is not a knife cutting into the wood. A knife type cut would look for any opportunity to catch the grain change - dig in - and tear. This device is neither a scraper - the #11 has no burr - nor is it a knife - the edge is perpendicular to the wood's surface.
I think that wedging the #11 to be a knife: pushing the back edge higher so the edge is digging in - would be bad - especially for weak soft wood like Basswood - which is totally unsuited for this.
The #11 can be set so the the back edge is turned in to the support and a carbide rod burnisher can be used to turn a burr on the edge. then this thing would be an actual scraper. Then it would actually have a chance to do the job it is intended to do.

Long ago I had excellent result using the soft steel cutter from a empty box of lab Parafilm - Being soft steel - it was cut reasonably quickly by needle files and left a burr.

A way to get an actual feel for the joy of working with species of wood with characteristics that support rather than resist is to try scraping the same shape in a piece of seasoned Pyrus calleryana - Callery pear - the street ornamental species - now seen as a weed in most places.
It is brown rather than red - usually - but it does everything we want - and does it well.

Mine are scratch principally. There isn't much in the way of kits for my areas of interest. Though I might get a cheap ebay kit for a hull, use as templates and resell if I'm looking for a particular vessell and I can't get plans. Or I will kit bash which is where better stock is required to improve the build to something respectable. I find my approach is adaptable enough to cover my options and my areas of interest. To draw bulkheads I need patterns, Maybe I can download from NMM, good site for English and captured ships. If it's an American boat they seem to be harder to view and download, access with a fee. Probably cheaper and more convenient to get a copy of Chappell's American Ships and draw up a set.
You seem to be questioning whether to go scratch or bash?? As far as I'm concerend either or. If I can speed up the process with a ready made skeleton why not? I'm more concerned with realism when it comes to planking. I dislike stealers, plus they are not an option on a clinker hull. Then there's the model of Fair American (I don't know the builder) with a white hull and some kind of visible caulking. Planks nicely fishtailed in the deadwood, no stealers, they would spoil a very nice little build.