I am going to start my build shortly. The first thing I need to build is the slipway. I will post as many pictures as possible.
Bluenose - Billing Boats 1:65 by 2002Hummer
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Does any member have any suggestions for a web hosting program for photos. I might be easier to put them on something like Photobucket. I particularly do not want use a program that is costly
Here is a topic on Photobucket,and google photos is free ,but if they change their policy your images on the build log won't be visible,lots of build log got useless on other forums because Photobucket changed its policy,much safer just resize and upload your images here on the forum.
http://www.shipsofscale.com/sosforums/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=1303
http://www.shipsofscale.com/sosforums/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=1303
I have started the build. I needed to make the slip and a coping saw table. I have cut out a few pieces. Alot of the parts need to be cut out and shaped to size, I will try and post pictures this weekend.
Here is the start of the build. My workbench and keel sections.
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Looking at my first post of pictures I see that I will need to get used to using a photo editor to get better pictures to post.
Hello Hummer,how is your build progressing?
I finally have purchese a better camera. This will help me take better pictures. Now I will start on the build in earnest. I will need to make up for lost time.
Hello, welcome back and looking forward to your build and keep in mind that you don’t need to resize your images before uploading, the program does it for you unless is larger than 15mb.
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I am looking forward to see your progress..... I will follow your log with big interest
Hallo @2002Hummer ,
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
BTW: are you still working on this model, or do you follow in the meantime another project?
I have finally put some time into the Bluenose build (BB Kit 452) The problem I have rib is I did not get the ribs exactly square across the keel and when I went to install the deck the ribs don't line up with notches in the deck. Is there a cheap and easy way to overcome this or do I have to take the build apart and make new pieces from scratch?
Hi Hummer. Sorry for my late response on your ask for help.
How unfortunate that it is so disappointing when you pick up the construction of your BN again.
If the wooden parts are glued with wood glue, hot (boiling) water sometimes helps. Provided the glue has not dried completely. And then make some cuts in the glue seams with a fine knife.
Otherwise there is nothing to do but make new frames. And when placing those frames, use the deck with cutouts to align them.
I hope you manage to get on with the build. Because it is a nice ship to build. For sure with your vintage kit!
I'll add your build log in the BN-list with build-logs here on the SoS:
List of BN-kits.
Hallo, From the PAYMENT AND ORDERING thread of @Heinrich, I have put together an excel-sheet with an overview of all sent BN kits. With the columns: A: Number of the kit B: SoS username C: First Name D: Country E: Build-log hyperlink F: Sequence number of BN-Build logs G: Date of starting the...
shipsofscale.com
I think your old kit number 452 has been replaced by kit 576 over the years. At the bottom of the list I have also placed a link to the digital manual of that current kit from the original BN.
Regards and good luck,
Peter
I got fed up with my progress on the Bluenose. The frames twisted and would not line up with the notches in the main deck and the stern frame was not centered. I finally got brave and soaked the hull structure long enough to remove the frames. I will try a different (slower) method for installing the frames if I can flatten them. If not where can I purchase thin plywood as used in the kit. I am in Canada so the places might be limited. I can purchase from the States if necessary.
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The fun of vintage BB kits! I am on my third one and they do not get any easier. A bit late, but if you have to move or reposition parts you can heat the glued joint with a hair dryer fitted with a narrow nozel to soften the glue enough to reposition the part or carefully remove it. Try flattening the warps out of the ply wood with a laundry iron but if the pieces have started to delaminate I think it may be a lost cause. I have repaired laminate pieces by saturating the wood with some thin two part polyester resin ( the type used for fibre glass repairs) making sure it goes into the joints and then putting the piece in a polythene bag and sandwiching between two flat boards with a lot of weight on top but, it is a) very messy and b) you have to work quick before the resin starts to set.
Setting the frames is a pain in these old kits, no marks or notches to work to so it is just a case of lots of engineering angles, clamps and plenty of measuring.
Good luck with the build!
Setting the frames is a pain in these old kits, no marks or notches to work to so it is just a case of lots of engineering angles, clamps and plenty of measuring.
Good luck with the build!
I had to soak what I had put together, the keel and frames. I guess I was not careful enough when I put the frames on and some were not square to the keel. I think I can save the frames by steam flattening them using a steam iron. Hoping to get a few suitable squares to hold everything square. I will keep everyone posted. I had to add this post as after it was posted I realize I had already posted something similar. Sorry for the error.
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Finally got back to the Bluenose. Reinstalled the ribs using the deck to line them all up. Next step is to permanently mount the deck. Patches are necessary in spots by the rib posts.
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Attached some planking the last few days. I took some binder clips and using an electric power grinder with a thin cut off wheel notched one end of the clips to fit over the planks. They hold them in place until the glue dries. Works okay, not a professional job but sanding will cure some of the mistakes. The modified clips are shown as well.
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Looks v. good so far. I think the planking will clean up nicely.
I use the same method for holding the planks together and to the frames but as you get further down to the keel you will find the bull-dog clips are too large to fit into the space. Use small alligator clips where space is limited (they are really cheap to buy in bulk and just cut the bit off where you attach the cable if necessary). To stop the teeth biting into the wood and damaging it slip a bit of heat-shrink tubing over them (you can also use soft silicone tubing instead).
As you say, it's amazing how many sins can get hidden under some wood filler but it is always better to try to get the planks as even as possible at the start because it saves a lot of time and effort later rather than having to do a lot of remedial filling and sanding. My current build is a vintage Billings Cutty Sark and the hull planking fought me all the way! In the end I did have to do a lot of filling and sanding to refine the hull shape but that is par for the course for these kits (it also adds to the fun!).
Good luck with the rest of the planking.
I use the same method for holding the planks together and to the frames but as you get further down to the keel you will find the bull-dog clips are too large to fit into the space. Use small alligator clips where space is limited (they are really cheap to buy in bulk and just cut the bit off where you attach the cable if necessary). To stop the teeth biting into the wood and damaging it slip a bit of heat-shrink tubing over them (you can also use soft silicone tubing instead).
As you say, it's amazing how many sins can get hidden under some wood filler but it is always better to try to get the planks as even as possible at the start because it saves a lot of time and effort later rather than having to do a lot of remedial filling and sanding. My current build is a vintage Billings Cutty Sark and the hull planking fought me all the way! In the end I did have to do a lot of filling and sanding to refine the hull shape but that is par for the course for these kits (it also adds to the fun!).
Good luck with the rest of the planking.
Thanks for the tip about the alligator clips.