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Birds of a feather (board)

Joined
Dec 31, 2015
Messages
267
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138

Location
Peterborough Ontario Canada
Although I recently took a few shots from my Proxxon saw none hit any vital areas.
So I hit old Amazon up and got two full size feather boards.
I cut the middle out of one of them and then joined the two remaining pieces together.
Then I reinforced the plastic with some plywood pieces top and bottom.
Fits the saw perfectly.
I posted this in case anyone wants to make one of these.

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I was thinking about this feather but isn't FET too small for a fetherboard?
Yes it’s way too small for any feather boards I could find. That’s why I cut the piece out of the middle to shorten it. With this surgery it fits beautifully. If you look at the picture you will notice that there are only 7 “feathers “ in total. The rest were plucked (cut) out.
The original one had 14 feathers.
 
Things shooting out of the saw at speed means something is binding, which could indicate a problem with technique (for example, using cross-cut bevel and rip fence simultaneously), but featherboards have their uses. If you have a bandsaw, jigsaw, or sabre saw available, they are easy enough to make to whatever size you need.
 
Things shooting out of the saw at speed means something is binding, which could indicate a problem with technique (for example, using cross-cut bevel and rip fence simultaneously), but featherboards have their uses. If you have a bandsaw, jigsaw, or sabre saw available, they are easy enough to make to whatever size you need.
Back throw isn't a problem. On a 50mm saw blade, simply you tilt board slightly and saw cuts a notch in wood as width of the blade, plank is bend. If you want to make a 500mm long plank, longer than saw table, is just tricky. You have two options, either keep your fingers next to saw blade or use a wood clamp and take out plank opposite side. A feather can be a good solution.
 
Back throw isn't a problem. On a 50mm saw blade, simply you tilt board slightly and saw cuts a notch in wood as width of the blade, plank is bend. If you want to make a 500mm long plank, longer than saw table, is just tricky. You have two options, either keep your fingers next to saw blade or use a wood clamp and take out plank opposite side. A feather can be a good solution.
An auxiliary fence might be a good option, too, if you’re trying to do something really long.
 
An auxiliary fence might be a good option, too, if you’re trying to do something really long.
This has no technical application and does not reduce the risk of injury. Slide on new FET saw model comes in two heights, a standard left 25mm and a precision right 5mm. When using a zero tolerance plate and a 50mm x0.5mm thick precision blade, your fingers are on left and right side of saw, its maybe 10mm between blade.
To avoid cutting your fingers, you move your hand, which causes overcutting or burning of the wood/slat at this blade width.
I'm wondering what use of feather would have for 1x1mm planks, and especially how much wood waste it could reduce. I'm currently wasting a lot, a lot of material because i'm afraid of my fingers. Out of small dimension from 50pcs, maybe 15 are correct.
With cheap wood there is no problem, but waste of alder, cherry or pearwood worries me a lot.
I ccutfinger once, and don't want to do it again.

Whiskers was the first to use this solution, i haven't seen anyone use a feather with a FET saw. I'm hoping this thread will expand.

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There are a number of different ways to do what you are describing, so I won’t belabor that point. The original poster was concerned with things flying out of the saw, which is what I was attempting to address. I would have thought that a modified featherboard designed for a full-sized saw would have limited effectiveness on a FET, but it seems to be working. If/when I find a need for a featherboard for my FET, I will just make one sized for my saw.
 
He wrote that he made a feather and it fits to FET saw. Nothing more. There's no any other explanation as to how it even works on such a small table saw...
 
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