Blocks

[Rob444]

Great looking blocks! I agree that the "right tool for the job" is a "pearl tweezers," or something like your shop-made equivalent.
I would also add that for the sort of work addressed in this thread, a modeler would find the use of a "jeweler's" or "watchmaker's" bench most helpful. Such benches are designed for working with a short viewing distance to the work and with design features which minimize the "escape" of small parts, as well as keeping essential tools handy. When we have a block the size of a pea go flying into the ether, we're out a few cents or a bit of time to replace it. When a jeweler has a flawless cut natural diamond the size of a pea go flying into the either, it could be $25,000 or more, so they've figured out a dedicated type of bench that provides for working close in (without back strain) on small parts with a catch tray or cloth catch "net" when parts do fall. The characteristic "U" shaped cutout in the front of these benches serves to allow sitting close to the work so the user's body blocks falling parts and directs their fall into the catch tray or "net." These benches usually also have some provision for forearm and/or hand rests which greatly reduce fatigue and maximize steadiness of hand. (See bottom photo.) Online there are lots of plans for DIY construction of full benches and partial bench "boxes" that sit on top of a regular table or bench.
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Note arm rests extended and metal catch tray and working surface. The "bench peg" is used for sawing with a jeweler's saw, as well as any other task requiring a sacrificial cutting surface. The wooden "fork" of the pin is easily replaceable when it gets too chewed up. The back surface of the bench pin style shown is a solid metal for use as an anvil.
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Jeweler's anvil and bench pin holders with wooden pins start around $20. These along with their companion jeweler's saw and blades are basic tools that should be part of every modeler's armament, although it appears few are unaware of this standard jeweler's essential tool. Note that it can entirely replace the relatively expensive "self-healing cutting mats" that seem to be used by so many ship modeler's. (Note in the picture below the wooden pin is inserted in the holder upside down from usual practice, although there's no reason it can't be used in that position at the user's convenience.) https://www.amazon.com/Bench-Jewelers-Jewelry-Making-Workbench/dp/B07KGJBP7C/ref=sr_1_10?adgrpid=1337006710146854&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.XVh2Wo8v_VQC93LwX8wFlyAtUo7h-RqNiVjfCpMJK_HjaKw8luDfz0pHCCkV4u6fnuZQoX17FFU1LpQKXbCmJxV_JtBS7J0Ekn5TTO39WsUK783QW7XeZzbqJ2lQ4CbKkzrNpHUHrFqKj-XDlHTlBzmhIF1m74eFB1OQC7-U7trL2IgHl0wgbTs5c-kWfN4dYjVoKTPfOivvbHi0XudvDhzUd67eBemv38v8xRwg0ZBVxxXgcsHSCT6oCwOgkyw5yxTCj0jiXLa4gnTZtVacIjLV3pl7WBVzbbx0n_jUgjM.3uE7VDNtP2ZhMM0L2djesZlmxvPVsKCxGtF9Dli3HfQ&dib_tag=se&hvadid=83563068434875&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=88716&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83563277995347:loc-190&hydadcr=24656_13493410&keywords=jeweler's+bench+pin&mcid=f425877f71e5375b91e3569cec40a305&msclkid=bb4c38edc4a413b4061450d115493140&qid=1748816379&sr=8-10
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So, how do you make such good-looking blocks?

I have long thought about how to mass-produce good looking blocks with a minimum of tedious hand finishing. Everybody is familiar with the old "whittle them out of a stick" method, but in addition to being very time and labor intensive, producing uniform sized and shaped blocks is a further challenge, although not insurmountable. Short of CNC machining, how do you do it? I recall there was once maybe ten years or more ago on another modeling forum a thread that described a jig system that enabled making a lot of blocks at a time, but I stupidly never saved it and have never been able to find it again. I'd love to see some folks who make their own quality blocks show us how they do it.

Thanks in advance!

The Syren blocks are 3-D printed and really beautiful. That is probably the future of making the blocks.

Rob

 

[Short John Bronze]

I give up!!! I am half-way through rigging my HMS Ontario by Maris Stella. I up-graded the kit to include "beautiful blocks" which, indeed, are beautiful and very realistic. However, I find that these blocks (probably because of their smoothness and material (ebony?) are slippery little buggers that literally leap off the workbench, similar to those lawn weeds that pop seeds all over if merely touched. Their manufacture may involve the use of a lubricant as well? I can handle these new blocks if they are 5mm or larger, but find it almost impossible to prep for use if they are 3mm or smaller. In my younger days I had been able to handle even 2mm blocks (made out of cast metal) but eyes and arthritis have eroded my abilities in this area. I have an ample supply of older blocks that I can still handle at the smaller sizes.

One another matter (still involving rigging of blocks), I typically use a tool that has a couple of alligator clips, attached to metal adjustable rods that themselves are attached to a heavy metal base (I am sure that you get the idea, but I simply don't know this tool's proper name). This tool extends its reach to, perhaps, 8-10 inches. However, when stropping a block, say at the top gallant level, it is useless. I am forced to do it with my fingers alone resulting in a less than perfect job. Are there any ideas out there as to how one can strop a block or whip a stay at the higher elevations?

When found that I was getting arm ache from working aloft I bought a cheap, low (actually adjustable) table rom Amazon. Placed at the side of the workbench it brought the royals down a peg or two. Anti-monarchists please note.

 

[Paul D Hall]

Thank you all for your suggestions. After each ship completion I have thought about rebuilding my shop, but always postpone to begin the next ship building project. I am now wearing a shop apron that I hope will catch some of the fleeing parts. Realistically, losing parts,for a variety of reasons, will always be part of modeling. Now, at age 86, it is unreasonable to start from scratch and build the "perfect" work shop.

It pays in time lost to keep a supply of the smaller blocks, deadeyes, nails, etc on hand. Most sizes are readily available and if the color doesn't quite mach the original, I suspect that most ships sported replacement parts from a variety of manufacturers as they were replaced following the ship's launch. I also am now using #30 annealed black wire to strop blocks 3mm or smaller rather than trying to use 0.2 or 0.3mm "rope".

 

[Paul D Hall]

I have almost completed Maris Stella's HMS Ontario (about 14 months). I have only the life boat remaining and have ordered the case the ship lie within. The build was satisfactory but not without without some anxiety. It is definitely not a beginners kit! I would suggest that the bow and stern be built the old fashion way and not by using the 3-D printed alternatives. Also, the rigging plans leave must to be desired. I purchased a couple of new books in an attempt to clarify intent but it appears that there is no definitive set of rigging plans for the ship. I completed the rigging (no sails) using a liberal amount of common sense, the provided plans, and my book research. The ship was built in what is now upper New York and only stayed afloat for less than a year. The Maris Stella rigging plans could be vastly improved by enlarging the plans (or making more than one plan for separate elements). Color coding would be expensive but would also improve the results. Block sizes were sometimes difficult to determine from the plans and I ran out of the 5mm beautiful blocks, probably from using them in areas where a 3mm block could have served. All in all, however, the Maris Stella kit is very good.

One another matter -- I absolutely love my Arrowmax drill. One of its regular tasks was to open up the holes in blocks. I broke only one drill (0.6mm) which I have yet to replace. In the rigging stage, I used it almost exclusively.

Final matter. I need of advice! I wish to build one of the Chris Craft run-about for my son-in-law who is an aficionado of the type of boat. I do not intend it to be a RC boat. Any suggestions as to the "best of the best"? My grandfather had such a real boat, and what I can remember is its high gloss mahogany and chromed fixtures.

 

[Y.T.]

When we have a block the size of a pea go flying into the ether, we're out a few cents or a bit of time to replace it. When a jeweler has a flawless cut natural diamond the size of a pea go flying into the either, it could be $25,000 or more, so they've figured out a dedicated type of bench that provides for working close in (without back strain) on small parts with a catch tray or cloth catch "net" when parts do fall.

Ha - ha. Getting loose of my small work objects had became a nightmare for me. The 3 mm block just suddenly snatches out of my holding tool and proceeds to the floor. I get frozen up to ensure I hear the how the block proceeds to the floor and produces these delicate sounds of small piece wood object bouncing on my wooden floor. All my concentration now is to ensure I understand which way this object travelled. Then I curse. Then I get down on the floor on my knees looking for the god damned thing. Of course I hate an idea of loosing it as I made exactly the proper quantity of them and loosing one would mean I must get into making a new bunch again. Then I spend minutes and sometimes a quarter hour on the floor trying to find the thing. First I do this with no glasses, then with some magnifiers, then with some flashlight. Sometimes I spent more time looking for lost things than to really building the model. Most of time I finally find them. Sometimes it is next day, sometimes only 10 minutes later. Life if life.

 

[Na Daeyong's Apprentice]

Geez, looking at all these photos and reading all these posts about their size and process makes me feel like I'm about to have an aneurysm! This is why I think I'll stick to more ancient vessels that had simpli er set ups before some 20 plus miles of rigging became the standard, along with god knows how many blocks, deadeyes an sheaves. How you all do it, I don't know yet, but you have my respect!

 

[Vfordyce]

Ha - ha. Getting loose of my small work objects had became a nightmare for me. The 3 mm block just suddenly snatches out of my holding tool and proceeds to the floor. I get frozen up to ensure I hear the how the block proceeds to the floor and produces these delicate sounds of small piece wood object bouncing on my wooden floor. All my concentration now is to ensure I understand which way this object travelled. Then I curse. Then I get down on the floor on my knees looking for the god damned thing. Of course I hate an idea of loosing it as I made exactly the proper quantity of them and loosing one would mean I must get into making a new bunch again. Then I spend minutes and sometimes a quarter hour on the floor trying to find the thing. First I do this with no glasses, then with some magnifiers, then with some flashlight. Sometimes I spent more time looking for lost things than to really building the model. Most of time I finally find them. Sometimes it is next day, sometimes only 10 minutes later. Life if life.

Sometimes it’s a year and a half later.

 

[AllanKP69]

I have only the life boat remaining

I am curious as to what type of ship's boat they provide. If she was outfitted like other 6th rates built by the British she would have had a launch, a pinnace and at least two cutters. No matter which, these can be as much of a challenge as the ship itself!
Allan

 

[AllanKP69]

I wish to build one of the Chris Craft run-about for my son-in-law

There are a lot of plans available for reasonable prices.

For a kit the Garrett Wade kit has a good rep but as it is set up to sail, it may be over priced for what you want.

Chris Craft Runabout Model Kit

Chris Craft Model Kit is overall length 28" with a beam 9". The wood frame hull is covered with expanded pvc and then the upper body is strip planked with Maho

garrettwade.com

Allan