Bluenose Hull Color Schema

[Loracs]

I have a general question for all our bluenose fan. I'm debating about the color schema for the outside hull. I love wood color and would rather finish with natural; I'm considering the following:

Accurate reproduction
a) reproduce the final color schema of the bluenose, i.e. Upper black and lower oxide red. Would be staining using keda dyes.

Wood Finish - artistic (edging here)
b) no dye, Upper part in pear wood as provided with the kit (finish with lindseed oil/wax) - a relatively dark color. MY QUESTION: what should I use for the lower portion? pearwood (kit supplied) OR the much lighter boxwood?

 

[Peter Voogt]

I have a general question for all our bluenose fan. I'm debating about the color schema for the outside hull. I love wood color and would rather finish with natural; I'm considering the following:

Accurate reproduction
a) reproduce the final color schema of the bluenose, i.e. Upper black and lower oxide red. Would be staining using keda dyes.

Wood Finish - artistic (edging here)
b) no dye, Upper part in pear wood as provided with the kit (finish with lindseed oil/wax) - a relatively dark color. MY QUESTION: what should I use for the lower portion? pearwood (kit supplied) OR the much lighter boxwood?

That's so personal that it's difficult to give advice. I think every builder will share what they did with their BN.
I wanted the wood grain and treenails to still be visible. After some experimenting, I ended up with Schmincke pigmented ink.
But you've probably seen that in my blog.
On the open not painted side I used the pearwood of the kit because it’s beautiful warm colored.
Regards, Peter

 

[AllanKP69]

Using various color woods can look beautiful. Swiss pear for the planking below the water line might make a great option to have the reddish bottom rather than paint. If you do paint, remember the white stripe. It is not the easiest thing to paint and some have opted to use pinstriping tape which can look really good.
Allan
Bluenose II in drydock


Different schooner models showing a stripe using pinstriping tape.
1 -With painted red bottom



2 With Swiss pear planking for the bottom. The hull was coated with a clear matte finish before it was finished to get the glare off the hull.

 

[Bob Ellis]

I have a general question for all our bluenose fan. I'm debating about the color schema for the outside hull. I love wood color and would rather finish with natural; I'm considering the following:

Accurate reproduction
a) reproduce the final color schema of the bluenose, i.e. Upper black and lower oxide red. Would be staining using keda dyes.

Wood Finish - artistic (edging here)
b) no dye, Upper part in pear wood as provided with the kit (finish with lindseed oil/wax) - a relatively dark color. MY QUESTION: what should I use for the lower portion? pearwood (kit supplied) OR the much lighter boxwood?

Tom Lauria produced a video on 'the enduring impression of scale' (or very similar)
His point was that to create realism we have to mimic how we see the real boat. So we would look at Bluenose from about 100 yards away to take in the full view. A black hull at that distance would appear dark grey due to aerial perspective, the filtration effect of the atmosphere on light. We create the effect on a model by substititing black with a very dark grey. So I gave it a try and it works as he decsribes. I have now permanently dispensed with the black and use a mix, (I'm unable to find a grey that dark) (incidentally our use of black on Royal Navy ships is a mistake, the colour scheme for Trafalgar was dark grey and pale yellow, I hope that one day the curator of Victory gets it right!!)
The dark grey upper and pear lower hull would be my approach, but that's me.
Inicidentally there was aa build (Sherborne?) on a facebook forum in pear finished completely with shellac. That was very pleasing.